The Singing Bush

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#921
The two from my cellar are these. I used them many years ago in two power amps and I don't recall any buzz.
They are only rated 25A!
They are vintage but they probably work.
Electromatic.......no idea about the quality of this brand. Brand probably gone today......
I considered those a type that turned on during zero crossing but now I read: Zero crossing - No .......so now I am not so sure 🙂
I don't need them so you can have them for free if you want.....but no guarantee that they work 😎
I guess those are 30-40 years old.
 

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#925
There's so many formulations of those SSRs! I used them to construct an "inrush tester" for computer power supplies. Those turned on as soon as the control signal was applied. Turn off, however, was always at zero crossing.

Could get some big inrush currents with a cold supply and turn on right at 90 deg... That's what they wanted to see.
 
#926
MEPER said:
I have not looked your application in details. Your China made SSR's and Panasonics trigges using a low DC-input.
My SSR's needs at least 90 VAC......so AC input trigger. They are used for mains in and out you can say.
Click to expand...


Yea, a lowish DC triggered one would be more suitable in this type of application.

But i have decided to cut my Solid State Relay losses; decided to keep it clean and simple, and simply direct connect the little donuts parallel with the big ones.

All ”protected” by the main fuses in the IEC inlet.

Just a classic CL60 inrush dampening for each of the larger toroidals.

(And rail fuses protecting the Tokins until it all is stable and properly dialed in.)

The Less is More principle. 🙂
 
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#928
Yea, the mechanical relay CL60 delayed auto bypass is not a bad solution. That is the deluxe version of the manual CL60 bypass switch that now i have installed in both PSU chassis.

But… The manual switch solution is perfect: It instantly makes the IEC inlet fuse vire into a bright plasma vapour cloud. And then the inside of the glass fuse turns black.

…If i forget the CL60 bypass ON, and then flips the mains switch on.

Perfect! The manual bypass solution has the strong potential to keep the fuses in the amps from never getting to old and the fuse stash always freshly refilled!
🙂🙂🙂
 
#931
The auto-relay solution also has the advantage that it can be "re-triggered". If you have a short mains drop the relay will switch off and CL60 is already cooled down and ready to take a new inrush. It requires that the power to the solenoid drops instant when mains drops. You also need a short delay from power on solenoid to it clamps the CL60. Usually the time it takes to close the contacts is enough......but it has to be tested of course. There are many possible tweaks to "fine tune" it.
 
#934
Don't use CL60 (they are for sissies?). Use 10A T fuse in the primary. Then you will have simple circuit with less impedance 🙂
I did that in the old days. No on/off switch at amp. Use wall mains switch. If you are afraid of overheated transformer in case of a fault then measure the temperatur of it and switch off it too hot 😎
 
#936
Sound first, safety next !
Does a CL60 improve the sound? ....if not......don't use it!
Just kidding........it is late.....and I just wanted some fun.

But I do remember that when I ordered toriods transformers locally I could order them with a built-in thermo-fuse in the windings. It could be an e.g. 125C fuse. It would open at that temperatur and close again when the transformer cooled down. I used such transformers and also the 10A T primary fuse for a 1000 VA toroid 🙂 It was back then many years ago. No fires or melted transformers after all.
 
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