The simplistic Salas low voltage shunt regulator

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With helps from Salas, I am using the SSLV 1.1 to filament bias my 26 line amp (DN2540 CCS loaded and telfon cap output).

The board is super stable in this application.
Heat from semi's manageable, quite a lot of heat from the rectifiers though, will try to move the rectifiers to the PSU box to share some heat there.

This 26 amp is super quiet!!!
Soundstage of this 26 amp is super wide, but not much depth though, and the separation of instruments is not super. The vocal (especially female vocal) from my 10 line amp is still more super than this 26 yet.

Any suggestions to improve the performance of this amp with the SSLV1.1 board in this application will be most welcome and will be tried in the very near future.
(please PM me if you think the suggestion may be out of topic here)

Photos show 1) the pair of board inside the 26 amp, and 2) the 26 amp at my friend's place.

Thankyou Salas.
 

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For some reason, the XMOS board doesn't like my separate USB power supply. It works with the default USB supply, it worked with an LM317 before, but not it doesn't want to with the Salas Blb1.1. It needs 400mA, I sink 564mA. The output of the regulator is 47uF Elna silmic 2 with shunted resistor. Vref capacitor is Silmic 2 470uF. I cannot observe any oscillation on the oscilloscope.
 
I found out the reason! The board wants fast voltage transient of the power supply. When board is already on and I touch the terminals, it works. A switch would work. Do you propose something else, for example a faster regulator turn on?
 
Hmm, the 470uF Vref filter cap needs some time to charge, but its not wise to make it small value because as it is filters the 1/F noise best. A thing that digital stuff with clocks appreciates. 220uF is still acceptable if the timing will be fast enough for that board. Also the 47uF at the output needs a little time. Maybe with Zobel instead. If not clicking even then, use a switch. That would keep the output MOSFET hotter than now though, until engaged. The 4 wires should terminate at the switch. Maybe a nearby delay relay with RC timer.
 
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