The simplistic Salas low voltage shunt regulator

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HiFiNutNut

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Joined 2004
qusp said:
hey bill, are you sure there is no DC across the pot? ...but its not unusual to get a crackling sound when you turn the pot if there is either DC present in the signal, or if one of the caps in the signal path is installed with reversed polarity
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There is a film output cap at the CD player so there should be no DC and no reversed polarity.

merlin el mago said:
Hi Bill,

Cardas, DeoxIT, etc & have metal contact cleaner if you want to try, If I was you I do a test looking the contacts searching the bad green oxide or dust, if it's dust you can remove with a computer air spray, if it's green oxide is the worst case you must remove sanding the contacts with a lot of care.

Cheers
Felipe
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This may be it. The attenuator is not enclosed so dusts can always get into it. What makes it worse is that my preamp has no top cover at the moment because the shunt regs with internal heatsinks run fairly hot so I can't put the top on. I need a new power amp chassis to redo my line level crossover, something I am planning to do in the near future.

As for contact cleaner, I have seen a few types and am not sure which one to get. Some claims to remove dusts only. Do others remove any oxidized metal layer as well? or is it necessary?
 
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Salas

Salas

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FOXYE said:
Hello Salas,

Which version is best for 5V Output Voltage?

And how much current it can provide?
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Up to the amperes that the Mosfets can safely take on each given sink and dissipation relation created by the voltage and current targets.
V1.0 I would prefer. Gives most margin. The 1.2&1.2R are compound output pair, and their open loop standards will slide in the xAmp region and would need tests for compensation tweaking. Prefer a faster TO-220 for Q1 like 9610-9620 if for digital.
 
Salas

Salas

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Thanks about the update on the cheapo pot Bill. It was in DCB1 threads there was interest. True its no mechanical wonder and its open. Could survive more if not exposed to dust though, or skip it a bit longer with the odd cleaning service. Not bad transparency for $10 though.
 
merlin el mago

merlin el mago

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HiFiNutNut said:
This may be it. The attenuator is not enclosed so dusts can always get into it. What makes it worse is that my preamp has no top cover at the moment because the shunt regs with internal heatsinks run fairly hot so I can't put the top on. I need a new power amp chassis to redo my line level crossover, something I am planning to do in the near future.

As for contact cleaner, I have seen a few types and am not sure which one to get. Some claims to remove dusts only. Do others remove any oxidized metal layer as well? or is it necessary?
Click to expand...

First look to see what's the problem, surely if you don't use cover have to be the dust so an air spray computer do the trick, if it's oxidized you know what do you do, about contact cleaner without deoxidization I prefer something don't left any kind of residue like the Audioquest UltraConnect 2 or CaiKleen 41 (Caig Labs) but if it's oxidized your product is only Caig DeoxIt you have to choose the specific product depending the amount of oxidation in the contacts.

If you can't cover use a plastic film like used to freeze to cover the stteped attenuator

Sorry for OT Salas
 
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qusp

qusp

Member
Joined 2009
Salas said:
Up to the amperes that the Mosfets can safely take on each given sink and dissipation relation created by the voltage and current targets.
V1.0 I would prefer. Gives most margin. The 1.2&1.2R are compound output pair, and their open loop standards will slide in the xAmp region and would need tests for compensation tweaking. Prefer a faster TO-220 for Q1 like 9610-9620 if for digital.
Click to expand...

right nice OK, I was planning on using IRF9510/510 I have here already for my dac at some point, sounds like its a decent idea? the 510 models have higher dissipation and higher max drain current too.
 
qusp

qusp

Member
Joined 2009
HiFiNutNut said:
There is a film output cap at the CD player so there should be no DC and no reversed polarity.



This may be it. The attenuator is not enclosed so dusts can always get into it. What makes it worse is that my preamp has no top cover at the moment because the shunt regs with internal heatsinks run fairly hot so I can't put the top on. I need a new power amp chassis to redo my line level crossover, something I am planning to do in the near future.

As for contact cleaner, I have seen a few types and am not sure which one to get. Some claims to remove dusts only. Do others remove any oxidized metal layer as well? or is it necessary?
Click to expand...

sounds like dirt is the culprit then, hope you get it sorted soon. another vote for caig products here
 
Salas

Salas

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Anything that will rectify to the current you need and has enough PIV for the applied voltage, goes. Use what you feel has a good price/quality, less switching noise effects, whatever you believe in, or you know it works better for you by experience.
 
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