The Green/Yellow PE wire takes a long route to a shared, bolted connection on the floor of the Chassis.
Because the chassis looks anodised, I suggest you add on a second PE wire from the PE incoming terminal to the bolt on the back panel that secures the filter/IEC socket.
This gives an Earth to two panels and increases the chance of a low resistance route for Fault Current to escape ( return to source).
Use your continuity meter to check that all the panels are in low resistance contact with all the others.
I further suggest that you re-route the PE wire so that it does not pass over the audio boards.
The PE wire in normal use only carries interference current and that makes it a source of emi.
That's why my previous posts suggest that the PE wire to the Safety Earth should be short and mechanically fixed to the enclosure next to the incoming socket.
Because the chassis looks anodised, I suggest you add on a second PE wire from the PE incoming terminal to the bolt on the back panel that secures the filter/IEC socket.
This gives an Earth to two panels and increases the chance of a low resistance route for Fault Current to escape ( return to source).
Use your continuity meter to check that all the panels are in low resistance contact with all the others.
I further suggest that you re-route the PE wire so that it does not pass over the audio boards.
The PE wire in normal use only carries interference current and that makes it a source of emi.
That's why my previous posts suggest that the PE wire to the Safety Earth should be short and mechanically fixed to the enclosure next to the incoming socket.
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Thanx Andrew for your smart suggestions, I appreciate your comments and explanations! Next time I open the case I'll look into implementing your mods..
I did scrape the anodising to make sure I have continuity between all panels (and between all panels and the circuits) through the screws, which I also checked with a meter. But never enough safety I guess!
I did scrape the anodising to make sure I have continuity between all panels (and between all panels and the circuits) through the screws, which I also checked with a meter. But never enough safety I guess!
One can choose to never plug in for more safety, but life would be so boring without the spitzensparken..................... But never enough safety I guess!
I suspect WntrMute2 and AndrewT are talking about two different builds.
k1965813's power supply, shown here, has an R-core power supply with a screen wire which is left disconnected, and a 3 pin IEC panel jack with the earth connection unwired.
Normally the screen is connected to the chassis, and the panel jack earth wired to the chassis with it's own connection, using a serrated washer. However, he lives in Taiwan, which if it's anything like Japan, earth wiring is often omitted. My house has no earth wire except to the main fuse box. Everything from there is two wire. So while not connecting the screen is debateable, there'd by nothing gained by wiring the IEC earth connection to the chassis.
WntrMute2's power supply, above, is a dual mono toroidal build, with what also looks to be transformer screens (purple wires). The screens and the IEC earth are connected to the chassis at the front right of the photo with a shared bolt. The IEC earth doesn't get it's own dedicated screw, but other than that minor breach of EU safety guidelines and the exposed metal connections at the IEC jack carrying line voltage there are no other problems that I can see.
k1965813's power supply, shown here, has an R-core power supply with a screen wire which is left disconnected, and a 3 pin IEC panel jack with the earth connection unwired.
Normally the screen is connected to the chassis, and the panel jack earth wired to the chassis with it's own connection, using a serrated washer. However, he lives in Taiwan, which if it's anything like Japan, earth wiring is often omitted. My house has no earth wire except to the main fuse box. Everything from there is two wire. So while not connecting the screen is debateable, there'd by nothing gained by wiring the IEC earth connection to the chassis.
WntrMute2's power supply, above, is a dual mono toroidal build, with what also looks to be transformer screens (purple wires). The screens and the IEC earth are connected to the chassis at the front right of the photo with a shared bolt. The IEC earth doesn't get it's own dedicated screw, but other than that minor breach of EU safety guidelines and the exposed metal connections at the IEC jack carrying line voltage there are no other problems that I can see.
WntrMute2 is causing lots of confusion. eg. using two names that are the same Member. Using two pics that are different builds. Using description from one post and applying that to a different build.
Andrew I have only one build. Once in a while I type my name as WntrMute instead of Wntrmute2. I have only one account here. I asked you a simple straight forward question so I could understand a little more clearly your position. Respectfully and politely. You just turned it into something subversive. I'm done with you. You are an antagonist.
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Post 3455 you reference is not by WntrMute (2 or of any number) but by k1965813.
WntrMute2 posted in 3457 asking a general question, which as far as I can tell you convoluted with the photos posted by another user from two posts earlier... I admit I don't follow what happened after that or understand how it went off the rails so quickly, but it does just all seem to be a misunderstanding caused by some jumbled post order.
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Hi. I have been reading these last threads. I do not understand why all the audio systems I've had (Technics; Aiwa; Rotel and now Marantz) do not have a ground connection from the 230 volt network. However the appliances do have it, such as the refrigerator.
Many times I have built DIY audio, if I connect ground to the ground network, it presents HUMMM. If I do not do it, the HUMMM disappears.
Therefore my phono preamplifiers are not connected to mains ground.
I understand that if there is bad connection it can be dangerous, but I rely on recognized brands that have no earth connection.
regards. Josè
Many times I have built DIY audio, if I connect ground to the ground network, it presents HUMMM. If I do not do it, the HUMMM disappears.
Therefore my phono preamplifiers are not connected to mains ground.
I understand that if there is bad connection it can be dangerous, but I rely on recognized brands that have no earth connection.
regards. Josè
ClassI requires a functional Protective Earth to help protect the user/house from damage.
ClassII must not have a Protective Earth. Instead it must be designed built and tested to meet a different standard of safety.
ClassII is often label/described as "Double Insulated" and has a concentric squares symbol on the package to confirm it is ClassII.
I suspect that none of your ClassI "white goods" products could meet the alternative safety standard required for ClassII duty.
ClassII must not have a Protective Earth. Instead it must be designed built and tested to meet a different standard of safety.
ClassII is often label/described as "Double Insulated" and has a concentric squares symbol on the package to confirm it is ClassII.
I suspect that none of your ClassI "white goods" products could meet the alternative safety standard required for ClassII duty.
@WntrMute2
Chill dude, Andrew was responding to Jose's question #3489.
@all
Everyone, look: diyaudio forums are a web version of 1980's BBS code. It's a very, very basic message board and sometimes hard to tell who is replying to what, and to whom. Use of the "@" tag is not required, but just like quoting a post in your reply it does help to indicate who you are talking to, or what you are talking about.
Think of it as an open panel discussion. By default, your post faces the audience. To address a fellow panelist directly, but still open mic, use the @ tag or quote function. Anything you want to say off mic, use pm. Check context before assuming an untagged reply was meant for you personally.
Chill dude, Andrew was responding to Jose's question #3489.
@all
Everyone, look: diyaudio forums are a web version of 1980's BBS code. It's a very, very basic message board and sometimes hard to tell who is replying to what, and to whom. Use of the "@" tag is not required, but just like quoting a post in your reply it does help to indicate who you are talking to, or what you are talking about.
Think of it as an open panel discussion. By default, your post faces the audience. To address a fellow panelist directly, but still open mic, use the @ tag or quote function. Anything you want to say off mic, use pm. Check context before assuming an untagged reply was meant for you personally.
not dependent on a fortunate fluke. I checked my post after placing it there. I saw that my response to the previous could not be misinterpreted.
Just occassionaly I see an intervening post coming in while I have been typing up my reply. Then, when I check and edit I will add a reference or quote, if there is any ambiguity.
Well I've narrowed down the root of the problem. Which for the record I don't think is anything worth exercising the ignore button over. This post of yours,
which wntrmute2 read the last line of as "Is there a mains fuse in that IEC input socket (of yours)?" so he replied back showing you his build to say that yes, in his build there is a fuse.
I'm going to put it down to subtleties of UK vs US English. Questions like "Is that a .. ?" are usually intended as direct interrogations in US usage, the rhetorical or indirect usage is more common in the UK.
Can you two shake hands and make up? It would make me feel better.
which wntrmute2 read the last line of as "Is there a mains fuse in that IEC input socket (of yours)?" so he replied back showing you his build to say that yes, in his build there is a fuse.
I'm going to put it down to subtleties of UK vs US English. Questions like "Is that a .. ?" are usually intended as direct interrogations in US usage, the rhetorical or indirect usage is more common in the UK.
Can you two shake hands and make up? It would make me feel better.
Since the above is not true and the originator of the above post can not acknowledge that fact.
The tone of the poster remains condescending in my opinion.
Continues to believe that the regulations where he lives must apply everywhere in the world.
Has sent PMs to me (Wntrmute2) with statements such as this "Good, I am not confused and I did not send the message intended for you to WntrMute." When clearly he did send it to me (Wntrmute2).
And after 24 hours of pondering.
The ignore button is on.
Guys, can I humbly suggest you both drop it and we get back to the topic of this thread? I know what happened here and it was clearly a misunderstanding. I just went back through and both of you played a role. I don't care who's responsible and I don't think many watching this thread do either. Please just accept that and move on.