The Nanook turntable thread

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Indeed, Stuart is my surname. 😉

That is such a coincidence Stuart is not my name but I did know a Stuart once... 🙂

Stew the thread is coming along nicely hope you got the second email. Looking forward to the build. Are you going for solid fix or sprung platter? I love the Saturns sprung platter and the way Transcriptors dealt with this. Also the way Garrard did it in the early Rc80's Takes away the vibrations from external sources.

I may join in with another of my builds following the principles of the thread but if I do I have to set my self what might be considered the ultimate challenge. I have, myself, down the shed a BSR Autochanger 1029LD. This was a turntable sold by BSR for exactly this sort of project. You bought the TT and built your own plinth for it. It is in pristine unused condition never having been fitted to a plinth. The challenge would have to be to see just how good it can be made. Ok now I don't want you lot to dismiss my little Bessie I know the comments will be cut the plug off throw the rest and start from there but I have high hopes. She has a metal top plate and the mech underneath is all metal. That's an improvement on the plastic fantastics that are out there. I think she could be a 301, a Thorens or a Lenco in the rough (so rough petrified something or other might be a better description) but it will be a testament to Stews ideal if this little hidden nugget can be transformed into a shining golden star.

Ah who am I trying to kid, it's a crap old BSR but I'll enjoy myself trying to get something out of it. 😀
 
Poor donor choices.

audiostar: thanks again for the link. I'll look at it later.

squiffy:While a BSR may not be my first choice if looking to buy a table, it follows that you should use it. "Run what ya brung" (a drag racing term) is the first principle of this thread. The fact that it is an all metal BSR may make it something quite special.

All:As I stated earlier and also above to squiffy, just use what you have. This is intended to be a low cost or no-cost project. I'm going to use baltic Birch plywood, as I have a bunch of suitably small pieces that I can use. I know it is expensive in some parts of the world. Try using any marine grade plywood, or if locally cut lumber is available (without cutting down high value lumber) and can be purchased in a suitable chunk, go for it. I'm not promoting slate or any of the very expensive materials, but do as you wish with a good conscience. It simply doesn't make sense to take perhaps an all plastic turntable, put it into an expensive plinth to make plinth, and expect it to sound as good as a turntable that costs like a good used car.

Just remember that if it was junk when it was new, it is now old junk.
 
Hi,

The sheer pomposity of this thread is unbelievable.

Lots of waffle from somebody who has no rigorous
idea what that they are talking about in any sense.

I have, and can, modify turntables at low cost to
make them much better, it varies with every case.

How much a turntable can be effectively improved
depends on its intrinsic limitations, not dogma.

So far this thread is full of pretentious waffle and
it won't get any better, there has already been
enough nonsense expounded and referenced.

Turntable design is one of my pet subjects and
something I think I understand pretty well, and
its not an amalgam of clueless reviewers musings,
parading as knowledge or a real insight as to
the real issues. For that you need an engineer
who understands the real problems, not waffle.

rgds, sreten.
 
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sreten,
Please enlighten us or me with your knowledge. Too many expensive turntables
out there. Would like to see cheaper turntable that can compete with the more expensive turntable. The purpose of this thread as I see it is to develop an inexpensive turntable that all can enjoy and in the end sell to the public and that benefits all of us or at least me. Your corrections, ideas and your understanding of turntables is appreciated. Would love to see pictures of the turntables you have worked on. Tell us what you did to improve said turntable.
long live turntables!
 
Sreten,

What you're saying is no-one, other than an engineer, will be able to take an old worn out turntable, or parts thereof, construct a new plinth, build the parts into a turntable that might be an improvement on what they had, enjoy the experience of the build and the experimentation of trying different processes to get to the end result, learn a little from input given by others and post up a comment or two on their progress so that others might gain a little bit of an insight on what they have been doing.

And if Stew, Jay, myself, Turbon, Stuey, Audiostar or any others decide to have a go at this obvious folly, without first getting a degree in audio engineering, despite whatever reading/research that may have done on the various aspects of the process or the component parts that will make up the final end results, then we are to be labelled pompous. It is pretentious that we even consider that this could be done.

This thread is doomed to failure, no working turntable will ever be produced by a mere DIY Audio fan, let alone something that may improve an old, dead or redundant turntable.

I might as well stop calling in to this forum because, I guess, if your comments are right about this thread then it must be the same for pretty much most of the DIY projects posted on here be they speaker builds, amplifiers, tonearms or any of the multitude of varied projects submitted.

Maybe the forum should be renamed DIY(only if you have a degree in engineering)Audio.com and the Tag line replaced with 'Projects by Fanatics (with an engineering degree) for Fanatics ( but only to be tried once your degree is in the post)'

Oh and I had best put a torch to the shed and all the bits and bobs I've collected because I do not have the funds to pay for my degree and without it how can I possibly attempt to build anything that is remotely going to give me any form of enjoyment or even come close to playing a record that will sound anything more that a loud hum with occasional scratches hissing out.

I'll just sell the kids, get rid of the dog divorce the wife and use all the funds I can to buy me a top of the line Engineer built turntable because then I will be able to listen to my records knowing that the money I didn't have has bought me the turntable I couldn't afford because anything else would just be pretentious.

Oh and sorry to all for the Waffle.
 
I've missed you sreten...

All: sreten and I have butted heads before. I do not doubt his sincerity, I just happen to provide non-technical reviews and discussions that seem to goad him. It has never been my intent to infuriate him, but almost all of the time I do, even when we agree. The thing is that if you put us in the same room, we would more often than not agree on things

Hi,

The sheer pomposity of this thread is unbelievable.
OK, I'm a pompous ***. I stated as much when I declared that this thread (and the previous one) is not a democracy, and will pretty much follow my ideas (although open to other's input).
Lots of waffle from somebody who has no rigorous
idea what that they are talking about in any sense..
The only waffle that I am aware of is those which I consume with fruit and syrup on mornings when I can convince my lovely bride to cook them for me.

As you have no clue as to what, if any rigorous training I have had you ought not become personal. Just because I have chosen to not specify what it is that I have academic training for (hmmm... 13 uni course in mathematics, a couple in chemistry, and 18 in the Physics..., although I never completed the "waffle" courses offered and thus was not granted a degree at the liberal arts uni I attended) does not mean that I have no understanding of what rigour is. Rather than write a scientific white paper that is mathematically rigorous, I choose not to. It's a simple as that. And in most cases it is a waisted effort to discuss the possible errors over pages of formulas (in a scientifically rigorous manner) when the end result is what is important. This is not an introductory lab course in engineering, or better yet the Physics.

I have, and can, modify turntables at low cost to
make them much better, it varies with every case..

I agree . But in this thread the basics are to be covered, and almost every turntable out there (save for some very expensive ones) can be improved with an improved plinth to support the turntable.
How much a turntable can be effectively improved
depends on its intrinsic limitations, not dogma..

Again, we agree. Would I start with a Kuzma Stogi? No. A Brinkmann Balance? Of course not. But a table that can be had for $20? Or found in an attic or an old shed? Why not! Or a good used table that was purchased for $200 or $300 and left disused? Again why not. I have never advocated nor am I now that folks should go buy what I say they should or only base their DIY projects on expensive items. Ask Jean Nantais of Lenco fame what he started with and where he has ended up now in terms of sonics. He never advocated anyone go buy all the Lencos out there in the world, only that that was what he felt was a pretty good table to start with (after he spent some time with the Elac Miracords, and a few others).

So far this thread is full of pretentious waffle and
it won't get any better, there has already been
enough nonsense expounded and referenced..

I'll take your word for it. So there is no need for your continued remarks. I would hate to be responsible for corrupting your pure mind.

Turntable design is one of my pet subjects and
something I think I understand pretty well, and
its not an amalgam of clueless reviewers musings,
parading as knowledge or a real insight as to
the real issues. For that you need an engineer
who understands the real problems, not waffle.

rgds, sreten.

As it is for me. I too have a pretty good understanding of the science behind turntable design, but you discount non-traditional approaches.

Over the years I've met and discussed many things with 100 or so engineers, of them only 2 were not the typical dogmatic thinking engineers. The other 98 would seek a textbook answer instead of starting out with first principles and developing their own solutions. I am not saying that they were wrong, just that in my experience not very creative and very dogmatic in their thinking. Enough of a history lesson.

sreten: Please PM me if you would like to push this forward in a more personal space.

for the rest of us: ...and now back to the thread.
 
an apology to all regarding sreten, and comments and questions answered

All: Sorry for the diversion and what may have seemed a personal attack against sreten. I thought I needed to respond. If you read my last post, I will try to have a few PMs with him to keep our disagreements out of the thread. Thanks to squiffy for his response too, but lets get moving forward on this thread.

audiostar: You must a have a little time on your hands. Do you have one (1019)? Thanks again for the links. I guess we should make you the "linkmaster" 😉

I will either have a try at fixing the idler wheel assembly (which has a broken cast idler wheel/pitch control assembly) or have to source one for my Dual, or use the Lab60. Tonight I will attempt to silver solder the pieces together. Wish me luck.
 
All, hear is a link to the cartridge repair, I mentioned a while back

http://www.lencoheaven.net/forum/index.php?topic=14507.msg213333#msg213333

It's a bit like micro surgery, what would 'sreten' (& what kind of name is that anyway) make of this?
As, I only have a lowly Second in Anthropology.
Most likely he will also scoff at my HNC in mechanical engineering & tool making. I can strip & then make from a pattern or from drawings, or indeed out of my head any part of a locomotive (diesel, steam or electric) Or any damn thing else I wish to. As for a record turntable or in this case a Phono Cartridge,
Its child's play

Still its done now, Though I won't be able to hear any results for a while yet as the LP12 is still out of action.

Jay
 
Hi,

e.g. the plinth of a suspended turntable makes far less difference than
the plinth of a solid turntable on feet. The subchassis design of of a
suspended design is far more important, whilst for a solid design
there is no subchassis, so plinth and chassis are the same.

The idea you can't make a RD11S into a great turntable because
it has a basic motor and a chipboard plinth is just nonsense.
Neither are the basic issues or the basic things to improve for it.
If you do its still not very good. Generic rules do not apply.

There are a lot of details of my mods on vinylengine,
and lots of comments on other turntable mod threads.

What you can't do IMO is come up with a set of generic
rules that apply to all turntables, like a better plinth and
a better motor, IMO basically is a very naive approach.

Get on with describing what you think makes a good
turntable, but don't overegg the pudding into generality.

However I still think sympathetic mods to used turntables
are far more cost effective than any possible DIY turntable.

Unlike an arm, you can make a very cost effective DIY arm.

rgds, sreten.


FWIW I agree most generic turntables are designed by the clueless, and
most can be improved by identifying and addressing their problems.

e.g. what I can do to on paper pretty decent Philips turntables
with suspended sunchassis's you'd have to hear to believe.
 
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I agree completely, a change for its own sake is not necessarily an improvement

Firstly, sreten: thank you for your thoughtful post
Hi,

e.g. the plinth of a suspended turntable makes far less difference than
the plinth of a solid turntable on feet. The subchassis design of of a
suspended design is far more important, whilst for a solid design
there is no subchassis, so plinth and chassis are the same.

However less of a contribution a new plinth on a suspended table does not negate an improvement to that tt. It becomes a matter of degree.
The idea you can't make a RD11S into a great turntable because
it has a basic motor and a chipboard plinth is just nonsense.
Neither are the basic issues or the basic things to improve for it.
If you do its still not very good. Generic rules do not apply.

Again I agree, but I have made an RD11 into a much better tt by making improvements in rigidity to the plinth which translated into notably improved performance. The improvements included a move to a "7:30" position for the motor and more bracing to the basic box. Hence all the Linn LP12 improvements out there. BTW, I do happen to think that the Airpax/Thompson/Premotec motors as used by a great many tts can be improved, but usually with the addition of an external power supply as found on a Roksan Xerxes (I've even modded a Roksan Xerxes, but not the bearing, platter, motor or power supply).

There are a lot of details of my mods on vinylengine,
and lots of comments on other turntable mod threads.
If you could please point me to a specific one. I did a search and got 1200+ hits.
What you can't do IMO is come up with a set of generic
rules that apply to all turntables, like a better plinth and
a better motor, IMO basically is a very naive approach.
THe idea here is the fact that we are starting with a very inexpensive turntable(s), although not necessarily junk. A respectable Dual, or Miracord, or whatever. Of interest is the fact that many folks have taken a simple re-plinth of a Rega table and reportedly made improvements (but as you state, the effect may be less prominent. There are also DD re-plinth such as the Kaneda ones as built by Akito Kaneta

Get on with describing what you think makes a good
turntable, but don't overegg the pudding into generality.

However I still think sympathetic mods to used turntables
are far more cost effective than any possible DIY turntable.

In many cases I agree, but again model dependent. The Chadwick mods for Thorens turntables come to mind

Unlike an arm, you can make a very cost effective DIY arm.
As per the previous Nanook tonearm thread.

I agree most generic turntables are designed by the clueless, and
most can be improved by identifying and addressing their problems.

e.g. what I can do to on paper pretty decent Philips turntables
with suspended sunchassis's you'd have to hear to believe.
As I'm over here in N.A., it is unlikely that I would be able to listen to your modded tts, but would gladly take the opportunity arose. In all cases, hearing is believing.

I will adress the description of what I think makes a good tt. If you are frustrated by this thread, someplace I saw a thread (I think here at diyAudio) that was trying to break every part down and create an "absolute" reference component for every part of a turntable. It was going to explode into a huge dream list without any apparent qualification (as far as I could see in the thread) as to the specifics of the parts. I hope to illustrate for any interested the basics of improving a turntable, with a specific example.
 
Sreten, I feel that I should give some kind of apology to your good self. My earlier post was sarcastic and a little harsh and I personally do not like to come across this way on public forums.

I do appreciate that you have considerable knowledge, and that your knowledgable input into a thread like this would be invaluable however you seem to be blinkered by the fact that not everyone reading a thread such as this is up to speed on building turntables, the technology and science that goes into making a good turntable, the materials that work or don't work, the improvements that can be made to a basic turntable to raise it up a notch or two, etc etc. Your approach seems to be 'if you don't know what your talking about then you cannot possibly expect to get results so don't bother meddling in something you shouldn't'

Most people who come to a forum such as this are here to find information about DIY audio. A thread such as this one is able to give the basic information on improvements and in some situations more advanced information. To show, with examples and a template turntable, what can be done.

I'm certainly not going to expect my cheap useless tiny crappy little BSR autochanger to somehow change into a turntable to equal a top of the range multi thousand pound supertable. I am not expecting it to rival anything to be honest but what I am hoping for is to get something by way of an improvement in both looks and sound to what it gives at the moment. And I want to do this on a very limited budget. If I get something that one person says that it looks cool or that they cant believe its a crappy ol BSR then I'll be happy.
 
Squiffything,

I bought a $5 thrift store Fisher-badged BSR for the cartridge and the tonearm wires, but decided to do a just-for-the-hell-of-it project. I stripped out the changer parts, bolted the base to a thrown-together wooden plinth, and added a DIY arm - not the 219, haven't built one of those, yet. Despite its questionable DNA and light platter, it produced very good sound, including the classic rim drive bass and clean attack. A couple of audio buddies and I were pleasantly surprised by what we heard. The motor, idler, and metal base are more than adequate. The plastic plinth was awful. The ball bearing spindle thrust bearing was the loudest mechanical noise, but wasn't audible at normal listening levels. I kludged in a quieter bushing spindle bearing from another cheap TT.

Your BSR probably won't be a world beater, but with some careful rebuilding and a good arm, it will probably punch well above its weight class. Based on my experience, I encourage you to go ahead with go ahead with your project and enjoy the satisfaction as you just grin when astonished people ask "you built that from a WHAT?"
 
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