I only made 3 of these boards when in school, and it was just an exercise to how a design like this translates over with SMD components 🙂 If I did it again, I would still use through-hole components for the IRF9610 devices.
It was a pretty cool looking amp though:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Man, I wish I had more free time to do cool projects like when I was in school at Georgia Tech, not to mention access to cool lab equipment. 🙂
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Brian
I honestly don't see a need for an SMD version 🙂 With the regular through-hole version, there is a much wider selection of components available for building the amplifier, and it is easier to build for most people. It was a fun project to build when I was at school though.
I really don't see much of an advantage for SMD. The signal path is just as short with the small mini-Aleph TH board.
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Brian
I really don't see much of an advantage for SMD. The signal path is just as short with the small mini-Aleph TH board.
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Brian
Member
Joined 2002
Member
Joined 2002
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I built both boards, I could not discern any difference in sound. You can't find the 9610 in smd anyway. The through-hole version offers the ability to play with different component manufactures as well. The through-hole boards I built I used Simlic II caps and that does make a difference.
Bill
Bill
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Thanks Brian,
I ordered a set of amp boards and a PS pcb. And thanks for the discount too. I thought that the price was already very good 🙂
I am looking forward to this. I built one of your chipamps several years ago and it has been running 7x24 ever since. Other amps come and go but that one contunues to give me a lot of pleasure.
Two questions. First. I think that I downloaded your BOM but it does not seem to include the power supply. Did I miss that or is it separate. Second. Which would be the best thread to follow for building tips or should I try to get a copy of the original Pass article from (was it?) AudioXpress?
Best,
Paul
I ordered a set of amp boards and a PS pcb. And thanks for the discount too. I thought that the price was already very good 🙂
I am looking forward to this. I built one of your chipamps several years ago and it has been running 7x24 ever since. Other amps come and go but that one contunues to give me a lot of pleasure.
Two questions. First. I think that I downloaded your BOM but it does not seem to include the power supply. Did I miss that or is it separate. Second. Which would be the best thread to follow for building tips or should I try to get a copy of the original Pass article from (was it?) AudioXpress?
Best,
Paul
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Here is a copy of the power supply BOM. It will probably take you longer to read the entire Thread on Mini A than to build it but it is worth it. This project will give you great insite into the pleasure of DIY audio and reward you with a great sounding amp as well.
Bill
Bill
Member
Joined 2002
Consider those 1.5" tall rectifier diode heatsinks as the minimum requirement. Taller is better! My mini-A runs @ ~1.2 Amps bias current and it really needs those 1.5" heatsinks.
BTW where are C1 and C2 in the power supply BOM? I used two Vishay's MKP1837 for those.
Diode-wise you can choose from a lot of TO-220 types, I used HFA08TB60's. Nelson prefers slow diodes: http://www.firstwatt.com/downloads/powersupply.pdf
BTW where are C1 and C2 in the power supply BOM? I used two Vishay's MKP1837 for those.
Diode-wise you can choose from a lot of TO-220 types, I used HFA08TB60's. Nelson prefers slow diodes: http://www.firstwatt.com/downloads/powersupply.pdf
I used Elna ROS Silmic caps too, they cost more than double than Panasonic FC's (very decent caps) but are worth it IMO. My mini-A sounds wonderful with them.
Nelson is also fond of these Elna caps: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/parts/151392-best-electrolytic-capacitors.html#post1919931
Inaccurate citing and outdated reference : www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/121228-f5-power-amplifier-501.html#post1933372
Thanks for those tips. I am slowly working my way through a couple threads and am sure that I wil get both great information and equaly confused!
While I have your attention, one more question. Sources for the IRF9610 and IRFP240? My understanding is that for the IRFP240 since I am going to be using just one for the output then matching is not an issue. They do not seem to be so readily available however. Last week I thought that I had found a source on EBAY but it seems to have disappeared. The IRF9610 seems to be available but I would love to find a source that offers matching(Q1,2).
Any ideas, sources, extras lying around that you would like to sell in order to make that next big project 🙂
Thanks again...
Paul
While I have your attention, one more question. Sources for the IRF9610 and IRFP240? My understanding is that for the IRFP240 since I am going to be using just one for the output then matching is not an issue. They do not seem to be so readily available however. Last week I thought that I had found a source on EBAY but it seems to have disappeared. The IRF9610 seems to be available but I would love to find a source that offers matching(Q1,2).
Any ideas, sources, extras lying around that you would like to sell in order to make that next big project 🙂
Thanks again...
Paul
Correct, the output mosfets do not have to be matched. Have you checked DigiKey for them?
Q1 and Q2 will have to be matched. Check out this for matched IRF9610 mosfets: Tech DIY Company Store
Q1 and Q2 will have to be matched. Check out this for matched IRF9610 mosfets: Tech DIY Company Store
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Highly recommend Tech DIY . You only need Q1 and Q2 matched.Digikey is you friend for the rest. Heat sinks are always fun Steve at Apex is a good place to check for surplus, Russ HeatsinkUSA, llc is good for raw heat sinks. If you want the true DIY experience you could learn to Anodize them your self. I have been wanting to learn to do this with silk screening to give a more professional look.
Bill
Bill
Thanks Beftus and Bill,
I went ahead and ordered the Q's from DIY-Tech as they had them all and made it simple. I think that I will finish reading the threads before ordering the rest to see if there are some more tips there. As for chassis I will be using an existing one built for a similar amp so that part is taken care of...
This should keep me off the streets this winter and warm too 🙂
I went ahead and ordered the Q's from DIY-Tech as they had them all and made it simple. I think that I will finish reading the threads before ordering the rest to see if there are some more tips there. As for chassis I will be using an existing one built for a similar amp so that part is taken care of...
This should keep me off the streets this winter and warm too 🙂
Member
Joined 2002
should keep you warm for sure 🙂 mine sure do !
I' think Brian should do a smd batch of maybe 20 or so, I still have 4 smd boards left some day ill build another 4 amp's.
As for cases, i should be able to order my self 2 class a cases from here,
http://thlaudio.com/casebpwrE.htm
My self, im ordering these,
PWAD-A40 Alum. Chassis for power amp.
Heat sink suitable for 30W+30W stereo or 60W under Mono Class A,
Overall size: 48cm(W) x 26cm(D) x 11cm(H)
Body size; 47 cm (W) x 25cm(D) x 10cm(H)
Panel size: 48cm (W)x 11cm(h)
Thickness: body(1.1mm), panel (6mm)
Heat sink size: 25cm(D) x 10cm(H) x 3.5cm(Thick) , with
2 pcs of heat sink
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Boy, that site has some beautiful cases. Any idea of how much they cost shipped to the US?
Also...
Can someonepoint me to a Digikey part number for the thermal pads for the IRFP240's. The last time I worked with a sand amp I used heatsink paste 🙂
I have to admit that I have mostly been a tube guy but have been following the Pass amps with interest since Audio Amateur days. I have a pair of AKG K1000 headphones that I am hoping to now achieve Nirvana with.
Lastly. Any ideas for some nice big feet to get these heatsinks off the ground?
Enjoy your Sunday.
Paul
Also...
Can someonepoint me to a Digikey part number for the thermal pads for the IRFP240's. The last time I worked with a sand amp I used heatsink paste 🙂
I have to admit that I have mostly been a tube guy but have been following the Pass amps with interest since Audio Amateur days. I have a pair of AKG K1000 headphones that I am hoping to now achieve Nirvana with.
Lastly. Any ideas for some nice big feet to get these heatsinks off the ground?
Enjoy your Sunday.
Paul
Member
Joined 2002
the case i'm ordering is 170$ us shipped,
They also sell feet and knobs etc etc, thlaudio.com 🙂
I'm still using my ceramic ones, they are thick about 2.5mm think i think, they work great.!
Thermal pads, http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=BER131-ND
Digi-Key Part Number BER131-ND
J'
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Paul,
I bought my mini-A case here: http://www.modushop.biz/ Very nice case, look for the PESANTE DISSIPANTE range.