I assume you mean the tonearm bearings.
My EPA100 still has the original ruby bearings and is in pristine condition, the force required to move the arm is very small around 5mg. I have heard of people replacing damaged ruby with SI3N4 ceramic balls.
My EPA100 still has the original ruby bearings and is in pristine condition, the force required to move the arm is very small around 5mg. I have heard of people replacing damaged ruby with SI3N4 ceramic balls.
So here we are again.
Found myself with a lot of time to spare for the foreseeable future. Might as well start working on my SP10 again.
Dug it out of the closet 3 days ago and set everything up in a new makeshift workshop.
Got a couple of things done already.
Made a new powersupply based on what MPBarney made. Works very well. 5V and 32,5V solid and stable.
Also carried out the mods as described by Aleks1 in post 1001 so I got rid of the SH10C.
Turntable is running, start/stop switch works almost flawlessly with a .047uF debounce cap.
But I still suspect something fishy. Speed is still a little off: 33.5RPM, 45.01 and 78.30.
LED strobe indicates lock, and I can adjust the S & T waveforms to the correct intervals. Also waveforms on A1-3 are as suggested by the schematic.
The T1 wave is 10VPP as described in the schematic, but I can’t adjust the frequency. Which is about 47Hz (mHz? I forgot)... trimming C210 doesn’t change a thing...
Any pointers anyone? I’ve been going back and forth through this thread but it’s almost endless! 😀
Found myself with a lot of time to spare for the foreseeable future. Might as well start working on my SP10 again.
Dug it out of the closet 3 days ago and set everything up in a new makeshift workshop.
Got a couple of things done already.
Made a new powersupply based on what MPBarney made. Works very well. 5V and 32,5V solid and stable.
Also carried out the mods as described by Aleks1 in post 1001 so I got rid of the SH10C.
Turntable is running, start/stop switch works almost flawlessly with a .047uF debounce cap.
But I still suspect something fishy. Speed is still a little off: 33.5RPM, 45.01 and 78.30.
LED strobe indicates lock, and I can adjust the S & T waveforms to the correct intervals. Also waveforms on A1-3 are as suggested by the schematic.
The T1 wave is 10VPP as described in the schematic, but I can’t adjust the frequency. Which is about 47Hz (mHz? I forgot)... trimming C210 doesn’t change a thing...
Any pointers anyone? I’ve been going back and forth through this thread but it’s almost endless! 😀
Thanks! I love your builds...very interested in linear arms. Would love to build a tonearm at some point...
Plinth will be white-washed-ish. See the layers, but not in high contrast...then clearcoat, not too shiney. Theory is make it all about the deck...
My ears nearly bled to death..
Buddy Sent me a video of the setup with his pro cartridge on the epa 100..very detailed but sounded horrid. Over crispy
Locally I could only get a technics epc 270c with conical tip..also have a shure 95ed. . Anyone can explain what's a good match with this arm
I also have a epc 250 c mk2.. Can't buy the tip. No point as all postal service suspended from abroad.
This isolation izzz dribing me grazzzy
Buddy Sent me a video of the setup with his pro cartridge on the epa 100..very detailed but sounded horrid. Over crispy
Locally I could only get a technics epc 270c with conical tip..also have a shure 95ed. . Anyone can explain what's a good match with this arm
I also have a epc 250 c mk2.. Can't buy the tip. No point as all postal service suspended from abroad.
This isolation izzz dribing me grazzzy
I have EPC205C (Jico SAS/B) and a Stanton 881s with genuine D4000, I also had an EPC100C all are very good but the Stanton wipes the floor with any cartridge I have owned, and I have had a few MC cartridges north of $3000.
The EPC205 Jico SAS/B is also very good and if I'd had never heard a Stanton would have been happy with it. Detail is excellent as is the low noise, and replacement stylus is available. Only problem with the Stanton/Pickering is the stylus must be OEM to have it sing at its best. I also have a re-tipped D3000 that is as good as original. I have not tried the Jico replacement but it's on my todo list.
The EPC205 Jico SAS/B is also very good and if I'd had never heard a Stanton would have been happy with it. Detail is excellent as is the low noise, and replacement stylus is available. Only problem with the Stanton/Pickering is the stylus must be OEM to have it sing at its best. I also have a re-tipped D3000 that is as good as original. I have not tried the Jico replacement but it's on my todo list.
Quite a bit more complicated than that. I've a B500 apart right now - will try to post a bit when I put it back together.
So the original ruby bearing balls are 1.19mm? I have an EPA 100 mk2 that probably needs new bearings, and I have ordered 1.3, 1.4 and 1.5 mm silicone nitride balls after finding an old thread at audiokarma.org where the OP claims the original bearing balls are 1.4mm in diameter. I even emailed the guy, and he confirmed the size. Should I order 1.2 mm too? Could I ask where you sourced the 1.19 mm balls?
As Mark said they are 3/64". I converted to metric for illustrative purposes for Anthony. 3/64 IN-C SI3N4 BALL GRADE 5 (1 PC) by Boca Bearings :: Ceramic Bearing Specialists
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Could someone point us to a source for the balls, preferably the more modern Silicon Nitride (SiN ??) type.
Actually I posted that much earlier today before the other messages. I'm not sure why it didn't show for hours.
