So here we are again.
Found myself with a lot of time to spare for the foreseeable future. Might as well start working on my SP10 again.
Dug it out of the closet 3 days ago and set everything up in a new makeshift workshop.
Got a couple of things done already.
Made a new powersupply based on what MPBarney made. Works very well. 5V and 32,5V solid and stable.
Also carried out the mods as described by Aleks1 in post 1001 so I got rid of the SH10C.
Turntable is running, start/stop switch works almost flawlessly with a .047uF debounce cap.
But I still suspect something fishy. Speed is still a little off: 33.5RPM, 45.01 and 78.30.
LED strobe indicates lock, and I can adjust the S & T waveforms to the correct intervals. Also waveforms on A1-3 are as suggested by the schematic.
The T1 wave is 10VPP as described in the schematic, but I can’t adjust the frequency. Which is about 47Hz (mHz? I forgot)... trimming C210 doesn’t change a thing...
Any pointers anyone? I’ve been going back and forth through this thread but it’s almost endless!
Found myself with a lot of time to spare for the foreseeable future. Might as well start working on my SP10 again.
Dug it out of the closet 3 days ago and set everything up in a new makeshift workshop.
Got a couple of things done already.
Made a new powersupply based on what MPBarney made. Works very well. 5V and 32,5V solid and stable.
Also carried out the mods as described by Aleks1 in post 1001 so I got rid of the SH10C.
Turntable is running, start/stop switch works almost flawlessly with a .047uF debounce cap.
But I still suspect something fishy. Speed is still a little off: 33.5RPM, 45.01 and 78.30.
LED strobe indicates lock, and I can adjust the S & T waveforms to the correct intervals. Also waveforms on A1-3 are as suggested by the schematic.
The T1 wave is 10VPP as described in the schematic, but I can’t adjust the frequency. Which is about 47Hz (mHz? I forgot)... trimming C210 doesn’t change a thing...
Any pointers anyone? I’ve been going back and forth through this thread but it’s almost endless!
Thanks! I love your builds...very interested in linear arms. Would love to build a tonearm at some point...
Plinth will be white-washed-ish. See the layers, but not in high contrast...then clearcoat, not too shiney. Theory is make it all about the deck...
My ears nearly bled to death..
Buddy Sent me a video of the setup with his pro cartridge on the epa 100..very detailed but sounded horrid. Over crispy
Locally I could only get a technics epc 270c with conical tip..also have a shure 95ed. . Anyone can explain what's a good match with this arm
I also have a epc 250 c mk2.. Can't buy the tip. No point as all postal service suspended from abroad.
This isolation izzz dribing me grazzzy
Buddy Sent me a video of the setup with his pro cartridge on the epa 100..very detailed but sounded horrid. Over crispy
Locally I could only get a technics epc 270c with conical tip..also have a shure 95ed. . Anyone can explain what's a good match with this arm
I also have a epc 250 c mk2.. Can't buy the tip. No point as all postal service suspended from abroad.
This isolation izzz dribing me grazzzy
I have EPC205C (Jico SAS/B) and a Stanton 881s with genuine D4000, I also had an EPC100C all are very good but the Stanton wipes the floor with any cartridge I have owned, and I have had a few MC cartridges north of $3000.
The EPC205 Jico SAS/B is also very good and if I'd had never heard a Stanton would have been happy with it. Detail is excellent as is the low noise, and replacement stylus is available. Only problem with the Stanton/Pickering is the stylus must be OEM to have it sing at its best. I also have a re-tipped D3000 that is as good as original. I have not tried the Jico replacement but it's on my todo list.
The EPC205 Jico SAS/B is also very good and if I'd had never heard a Stanton would have been happy with it. Detail is excellent as is the low noise, and replacement stylus is available. Only problem with the Stanton/Pickering is the stylus must be OEM to have it sing at its best. I also have a re-tipped D3000 that is as good as original. I have not tried the Jico replacement but it's on my todo list.
So the original ruby bearing balls are 1.19mm? I have an EPA 100 mk2 that probably needs new bearings, and I have ordered 1.3, 1.4 and 1.5 mm silicone nitride balls after finding an old thread at audiokarma.org where the OP claims the original bearing balls are 1.4mm in diameter. I even emailed the guy, and he confirmed the size. Should I order 1.2 mm too? Could I ask where you sourced the 1.19 mm balls?
As Mark said they are 3/64". I converted to metric for illustrative purposes for Anthony. 3/64 IN-C SI3N4 BALL GRADE 5 (1 PC) by Boca Bearings :: Ceramic Bearing Specialists
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