Would like to 'free' my MK3 from its factory SH-10B5 base and into a custom Panzerholtz 2 or 3 arm plinth, with the motor mounted 'naked'.
I know of the the high dollar builders, but was hoping I could get recommendations for someone who builds great plinths and for less than an arm/leg.
I know of the the high dollar builders, but was hoping I could get recommendations for someone who builds great plinths and for less than an arm/leg.
Do that to a Mk2, as the motor is it’s own part. The Mk3 motor would be significantly more difficult to mount naked in it’s own base, and honestly, why would you want to mess with what is (without hyperbole) arguably the best turntable ever made?
That said, a custom plinth would be a great idea. Panzer is very expensive, materials alone will be $1000+ sitting at the builder’s door. The job isn’t all that hard, any competent custom furniture maker could do it. I’d look into sourcing Panzer first.
That said, a custom plinth would be a great idea. Panzer is very expensive, materials alone will be $1000+ sitting at the builder’s door. The job isn’t all that hard, any competent custom furniture maker could do it. I’d look into sourcing Panzer first.
Freeing the SP10 of the decorative plate allows the use of shorter arms, such as the Kuzma and other 9" arms. It also increases performance as the plate relays vibration to the motor.
Actually, it is the opposite of what you said.....a MK2 is much harder to to this with than the MK3, as the MK2 is NOT its own part, it also contains the control board with the motor.
The MK3 can be mounted solo, without the Start/Stop switch and without the Speed Control switches as it can be controlled by the power supply/controller.
I have talked to the top plinth builders years ago, such as Steve Dobbins, Chris Thornton and they build the MK3 'naked' as their preferred top performer. But, they use materials that also make them very expensive.
I also had an engineer friend who machined his own plinth from solid SS/solid brass, who told me it was very simple, just remooving the plate, but has since retired.
Here are some of his pics:
Actually, it is the opposite of what you said.....a MK2 is much harder to to this with than the MK3, as the MK2 is NOT its own part, it also contains the control board with the motor.
The MK3 can be mounted solo, without the Start/Stop switch and without the Speed Control switches as it can be controlled by the power supply/controller.
I have talked to the top plinth builders years ago, such as Steve Dobbins, Chris Thornton and they build the MK3 'naked' as their preferred top performer. But, they use materials that also make them very expensive.
I also had an engineer friend who machined his own plinth from solid SS/solid brass, who told me it was very simple, just remooving the plate, but has since retired.
Here are some of his pics:
Attachments
This is the Mk3 thread.
Mk2 here — https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/the-incredible-technics-sp-10-thread.261735/
Mk2 here — https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/the-incredible-technics-sp-10-thread.261735/
It took me a while but I finally did it. Acquired a really nice MK3. Pictures attached. Looking forward to the listening part.
You can see the disassembled controller for recap in the background. A bit of a challenge the first time through with a new system.
My first two questions/request for advice are:
1. I would like to get a 117v (US) xformer for the existing 100v. Any suggestions?
2. The caps are a bit of a challenge. I pulled all the electrolytics and there are some discrepancies. One type is the actual is not the same spec as in the service manual. As in bipolar vs polar. The other is the cap size for actual and book are different. Any guidelines would be appreciated.
I had a few green legs but not too bad and no board damage.
The key here for me is to do no harm.
Finally, I asked to be put on the JP FA6042 chip list as I thinking is only a matter of time before the original fails.
Don
You can see the disassembled controller for recap in the background. A bit of a challenge the first time through with a new system.
My first two questions/request for advice are:
1. I would like to get a 117v (US) xformer for the existing 100v. Any suggestions?
2. The caps are a bit of a challenge. I pulled all the electrolytics and there are some discrepancies. One type is the actual is not the same spec as in the service manual. As in bipolar vs polar. The other is the cap size for actual and book are different. Any guidelines would be appreciated.
I had a few green legs but not too bad and no board damage.
The key here for me is to do no harm.
Finally, I asked to be put on the JP FA6042 chip list as I thinking is only a matter of time before the original fails.
Don
Hi Don
I had a batch of toroidal transformers and mounting plates made, I have one and so does JP. I was able to keep originality down to the wire colours, so that it looks like it left the factory that way. It was also possible to fit as if it had always been there, a gold plated Furutech IEC connector. I'm not sure I have any left, they were not cheap and the wonderful transormer manufactier is no longer trading.
I was able to replace all the capcitors like for like with beter voltage and temperature ratings. Let me know which you are haveing trouble sourcing and why ?
Dave
I had a batch of toroidal transformers and mounting plates made, I have one and so does JP. I was able to keep originality down to the wire colours, so that it looks like it left the factory that way. It was also possible to fit as if it had always been there, a gold plated Furutech IEC connector. I'm not sure I have any left, they were not cheap and the wonderful transormer manufactier is no longer trading.
I was able to replace all the capcitors like for like with beter voltage and temperature ratings. Let me know which you are haveing trouble sourcing and why ?
Dave
- Home
- Source & Line
- Analogue Source
- The Incredible Technics SP-10 MK3 Thread