The diyAudio First Watt M2x

Hi, now I switched from the Mountain View to the Tucson - and wow what a difference. Very clear and open sound, maybe even more detailed, the highs are much finer without being superficial, the bass seems to be more controlled. And the mids...great clarity, crisp, much better overall for me. Mountain View is much calmer, even a bit duller by comparison. It's certainly also a matter of taste (I listen to almost all types of music), but the Tucson is a revelation for me. Many thanks @Mark Johnson for this IPS.
PS: I use the LT1122 in the Tucson.
 
Congratulations, the LT1122 is an excellent choice. If you ever try "IPS7" (see post #4 of this thread), LT1122 works well there, too.
Thanks Mark! This was an almost forced choice as the original op amp won't be available until next year or so. Yes, I plan to build all IPS cards now... contrary to my original plans, but it's great fun. Next is Norwood, I already have all the parts except for the buffer, which will be delivered at the end of November, hopefully. It will be my first smd work, I'm excited.
 
Referring back to MJ’s post #101, where he describes the Austin daughterboard:

“First of all, Austin anticipates rampant substitution or optimization of individual components: all possible pinouts of TO92 transistors (and E-Line transistors) work equally well in the board layout; their footprints are intentionally symmetric.”

And given that the originally specified (per the Austin schematic) ZTX Super E-line transistors are currently out of stock at Mouser, may I use these NPN and PNP substitutes?:

NPN:
https://www.mouser.com/c/semiconductors/discrete-semiconductors/transistors/bipolar-transistors-bjt/?q=BJT NPN Super E-line&instock=y

PNP:
https://www.mouser.com/c/semiconductors/discrete-semiconductors/transistors/bipolar-transistors-bjt/?q=BJT PNP Super E-Line&instock=y

Thank you!

Anand.
 
All six of the bipolar junction transistors on Austin need to be high voltage (>75V) and high beta, as noted on the circuit schematic.

IN ADDITION, I strongly recommend selecting output transistors (Q5 and Q6) which are high voltage, high beta, and the lowest possible Theta-JA (thermal resistance from junction to ambient). In TO-92 style packages, that means either Zetex super E-Line devices, OR Motorola/Fairchild/OnSemi/Toshiba devices in the TO-92L "long boy" package.

If you don't mind finagling the pins a little bit to make everything fit into the PCB drilled holes, medium power transistors in the TO-225 package with metal slug, are even better. TO-126 without the metal slug are nice too. Maybe you'll find a few that fit all of the criteria, (including the most important criterion: It Must Please YOU), in (this list). I slapped it together in 20 seconds so there may be omissions or errors, therefore be cautious, be skeptical, and double-check.

Beware: there are plenty of E-Line transistors that don't go all the way up to 75 volts. The 688 is only good to twelve volts (!).

Finally, you could do some mechanical what-if sketches to estimate whether the TO-92 heatsink (!!) used in the diyAudio Noir headphone amplifier, might possibly fit Q5 and Q6 of Austin without clanking into nearby components. Check the clearance in all three dimensions, as I recall it was surprisingly tall. Download attachment #3 of Noir post #1.

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All six of the bipolar junction transistors on Austin need to be high voltage (>75V) and high beta, as noted on the circuit schematic.

IN ADDITION, I strongly recommend selecting output transistors (Q5 and Q6) which are high voltage, high beta, and the lowest possible Theta-JA (thermal resistance from junction to ambient). In TO-92 style packages, that means either Zetex super E-Line devices, OR Motorola/Fairchild/OnSemi/Toshiba devices in the TO-92L "long boy" package.

If you don't mind finagling the pins a little bit to make everything fit into the PCB drilled holes, medium power transistors in the TO-225 package with metal slug, are even better. TO-126 without the metal slug are nice too. Maybe you'll find a few that fit all of the criteria, (including the most important criterion: It Must Please YOU), in (this list). I slapped it together in 20 seconds so there may be omissions or errors, therefore be cautious, be skeptical, and double-check.

Beware: there are plenty of E-Line transistors that don't go all the way up to 75 volts. The 688 is only good to twelve volts (!).

Finally, you could do some mechanical what-if sketches to estimate whether the TO-92 heatsink (!!) used in the diyAudio Noir headphone amplifier, might possibly fit Q5 and Q6 of Austin without clanking into nearby components. Check the clearance in all three dimensions, as I recall it was surprisingly tall. Download attachment #3 of Noir post #1.

_
Mark,

Thanks again for the guidance. I revised my search criteria, knowing that the Austin board is quite compact, as such I ruled out TO-225 and TO-126's (at least for now). I ruled in TO-92L "long boy" and of course Zetex super E-Line devices but with the additional criteria of high voltage (>75V) and high beta. Getting the lowest possible Theta-JA has proven to be somewhat of a challenge. So with regards to the TO-92L variety, here is what I came up with that is in stock at Digikey.

The 2 that interest me the most are KSA1013YTA (PNP) and KSA2383YTA (NPN). They are at 160V, and the "Y" variety has the highest beta. I also found the heatsink you alluded to, the Aavid 575200B00000G which is rather tall!

For the TO-126 types, I rather like the TTA004B and TTC004B; they also seem to be good substitutes in the emitter output stages of Waynes BA2018 pre.

Let me know if I am getting close...

Best,
Anand.
 
Anand, see whether you agree with this statement: "An artful dodger can read the Toshiba TTA004B datasheet cleverly, with great cunning, and from it deduce that Theta-JA is 75 degrees C per watt. Which is a hellll of a lot better than the KSA1013Y in the TO-92 long body package".

Also scan your long term memory to recall when you yourself assembled a Noir headphone amp. It had a TO-92 packaged device "Q71" with a heatsink. Ask yourself "Why is there a dotted rectangle on the PCB silkscreen adjacent to Q71?". When you get the answer, say Eureka.

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A new input stage daughter card for M2x: Cedarburg / IPS8 (Jan 2021)

I present here the eighth input stage daughter card design for M2x power amplifiers: Cedarburg.

The design goal was simple: build an M2x input stage using the legendary / formidable/ recondite AD797 opamp from Analog Devices. This 29-year-old chip is both highly regarded, and greatly feared, in the audio design community: it offers tremendous performance, but is notoriously difficult to stabilize. Lots of very talented engineers have tried, unsuccessfully, to build a Jung/Didden "Super Regulator" with the AD797; they all found that it oscillated instead of amplified. Even Walt Jung himself (an employee of Analog Devices!), finally threw in the towel and instead recommended the AD825 for Super Regulators.

The Cedarburg circuit unveiled here does not oscillate, thanks to the use of Input Compensation: R11,R12,C5.
cbsch-png.916955


Hi Mark,

I was wondering if the Cedarburg/AD797 input stage could also be used as a line stage preamplifier before power amps as the BA-3 front-end was successfully used.
The reason is that we see often AD797s being used most in Phono stages, but hardly as line stage for CD players, DACs, or other sources... Thanks.
 
Cedarburg is an M2x input stage board, and it exactly performs the one specific function which M2x requires: it's a unity gain buffer. Cedarburg cannot be configured to have any gain other than +1.00. Cedarburg requires bipolar supplies reasonably close to +23V and -23V.

That doesn't sound to me like a useful section of a line stage preamplifier.
 
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cbsch-png.916955


Hi Mark,

I was wondering if the Cedarburg/AD797 input stage could also be used as a line stage preamplifier before power amps as the BA-3 front-end was successfully used.
The reason is that we see often AD797s being used most in Phono stages, but hardly as line stage for CD players, DACs, or other sources... Thanks.
you need an iron too maybe with some nikel on it
 
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