Hi folks.
I was wondering if anyone had had any success in quieting down the Sanyo mechanism? Indeed my only complaint with Shiga (with Peter Daniel's superb chassis) is the noise from the mechanism. Shiga is positioned about 2M from my listening position (which I cannot change) and it really is quite audible on quieter music.
Does anybody know where the noise comes from? I have a feeling it's whatever the motor spindle is resting upon when it rotates. Was wondering whether this can be improved with a teflon thrust pad or something? I may try and get a donar motor and take it apart to see what makes it tick, and if it can be improved.
Cheers,
- John
P.S. I've also noticed quite a variablity between the Sanyo transports. i.e. some of them play anything you throw at them, others have problems with some CD-Rs or reading the red-book layer of SACDs etc.
I was wondering if anyone had had any success in quieting down the Sanyo mechanism? Indeed my only complaint with Shiga (with Peter Daniel's superb chassis) is the noise from the mechanism. Shiga is positioned about 2M from my listening position (which I cannot change) and it really is quite audible on quieter music.
Does anybody know where the noise comes from? I have a feeling it's whatever the motor spindle is resting upon when it rotates. Was wondering whether this can be improved with a teflon thrust pad or something? I may try and get a donar motor and take it apart to see what makes it tick, and if it can be improved.
Cheers,
- John
P.S. I've also noticed quite a variablity between the Sanyo transports. i.e. some of them play anything you throw at them, others have problems with some CD-Rs or reading the red-book layer of SACDs etc.
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noise
I just purchased a second Sanyo WPC boombox.... stripped it and found the laser unit and board to be much cleaner and better assembled than the first one I purchased. And...
Not a surprise to me, it sounds better too!
Budget items like this don't have enough profit margin built in for any kind of rational quality control.
Like you John, I notice the noise from the motor/spindle/disk/puck arrangement which is actually turning the disk. I was noticing some disks make more noise... warping perhaps?
I am at a loss as to why we DIY folk can't use brushless motors and hall sensor based speed controllers for audio, all tried and tested existing technology for PC CD ROM drives (and radio control, another marginal hobby (of mine))... just need to get a good direct output to audio without sticking a computer in between.
Any mechanism spinning at speed needs to be properly balanced and I personally think the cheap magnetic puck is the weakest link here.
It doesn't centre in the same place every time for a start.
Just watch it from the side and you will see what I mean.
I tried to PM you John M to ask for your current capacitor preferances for power supply and C916?
Any advice or opinions on readily available capacitors folks?
brgds
Bill
I just purchased a second Sanyo WPC boombox.... stripped it and found the laser unit and board to be much cleaner and better assembled than the first one I purchased. And...
Not a surprise to me, it sounds better too!
Budget items like this don't have enough profit margin built in for any kind of rational quality control.
Like you John, I notice the noise from the motor/spindle/disk/puck arrangement which is actually turning the disk. I was noticing some disks make more noise... warping perhaps?
I am at a loss as to why we DIY folk can't use brushless motors and hall sensor based speed controllers for audio, all tried and tested existing technology for PC CD ROM drives (and radio control, another marginal hobby (of mine))... just need to get a good direct output to audio without sticking a computer in between.
Any mechanism spinning at speed needs to be properly balanced and I personally think the cheap magnetic puck is the weakest link here.
It doesn't centre in the same place every time for a start.
Just watch it from the side and you will see what I mean.
I tried to PM you John M to ask for your current capacitor preferances for power supply and C916?
Any advice or opinions on readily available capacitors folks?
brgds
Bill
Hi there!
Sorry yeah turned off my PMs a while back and have forgotten to re-activate it.
I went with x2 Rubycon ZL caps (many prefer them to Black Gates and they use a more modern 'recipe' from the same manufacturer) from Farnell UK in the end, along with the recommended 7808 regulator. For the main drive board I followed Peter's advise on only taking out C916 and C952 (plus the ceramic bypasses), and replacing with one Black Gate N 47uF/50V for C916. Like Peter, I discovered with my original experiments using my first mechanism, that the supplied caps work VERY well in the circuit and are best left as-is, apart from the above two exceptions.
Was wondering whether replacing the cap-rectifier-cap with a TeddyReg (or similar) would reap any additional benefits? I'm a firm believer in the PSU being the heart/foundation of any decent hi-fi component, and many rave about the benefits of these regs. May well try one when the funds are looking a bit healthier
http://www.teddypardo.com/ (Click upon DIY on the left, then SuperTeddyReg)
Agree about the puck - I also think it's probably a tad too heavy for the mechanism too. Using a bit of blutac works very well, though obviously doesn't look too great. I'd love to get a proper screw puck manufactured from frosted acrylic or something similar.
Regarding the motor, I'm wondering if one can purchase higher spec versions in the same series which would just be a simple replace and fit job on the Shigaclone? Brushless would be good. I've noticed on one Sanyo mech the motor is free to rotate if one brushes the CD with a finger. The turn is smooth. I have another where it seems to go around in 'stages' if that makes sense? Like it's jumping from one pole to the next around the circumference?
Lastly, I found the transport can sound quite 'dry' when used freshly modded. Needs a few days to really come on song. Possibly due to that Black Gate.
Cheers,
- John
Sorry yeah turned off my PMs a while back and have forgotten to re-activate it.
I went with x2 Rubycon ZL caps (many prefer them to Black Gates and they use a more modern 'recipe' from the same manufacturer) from Farnell UK in the end, along with the recommended 7808 regulator. For the main drive board I followed Peter's advise on only taking out C916 and C952 (plus the ceramic bypasses), and replacing with one Black Gate N 47uF/50V for C916. Like Peter, I discovered with my original experiments using my first mechanism, that the supplied caps work VERY well in the circuit and are best left as-is, apart from the above two exceptions.
Was wondering whether replacing the cap-rectifier-cap with a TeddyReg (or similar) would reap any additional benefits? I'm a firm believer in the PSU being the heart/foundation of any decent hi-fi component, and many rave about the benefits of these regs. May well try one when the funds are looking a bit healthier
http://www.teddypardo.com/ (Click upon DIY on the left, then SuperTeddyReg)
Agree about the puck - I also think it's probably a tad too heavy for the mechanism too. Using a bit of blutac works very well, though obviously doesn't look too great. I'd love to get a proper screw puck manufactured from frosted acrylic or something similar.
Regarding the motor, I'm wondering if one can purchase higher spec versions in the same series which would just be a simple replace and fit job on the Shigaclone? Brushless would be good. I've noticed on one Sanyo mech the motor is free to rotate if one brushes the CD with a finger. The turn is smooth. I have another where it seems to go around in 'stages' if that makes sense? Like it's jumping from one pole to the next around the circumference?
Lastly, I found the transport can sound quite 'dry' when used freshly modded. Needs a few days to really come on song. Possibly due to that Black Gate.
Cheers,
- John
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on the bench
Thanks for the advice John M.
Well I had a good weekend 'fiddling with my knobs' as my family call it (bless the little dears!)....
Haven't received any of the Caps I have on order yet, but just with what I found locally it sounds fairly good! Running off my DC bench supply for now (it's a pretty good one I got ridiculously cheap)...
I found out how to fix the noise from the drive itself... turn the music up!
Same principle as dealing with irritating rattles in the car.
Joking aside now, it seems quieter strapped-down to a piece of cast iron griddle, I would like to seperate the mechanism from the boards, but getting the laser sledge stop reed switch in the right place seems like it would be tricky. The switch is fixed to the board as standard
How critical is that switch positioning anyone?
Bill
Thanks for the advice John M.
Well I had a good weekend 'fiddling with my knobs' as my family call it (bless the little dears!)....
Haven't received any of the Caps I have on order yet, but just with what I found locally it sounds fairly good! Running off my DC bench supply for now (it's a pretty good one I got ridiculously cheap)...
I found out how to fix the noise from the drive itself... turn the music up!
Same principle as dealing with irritating rattles in the car.
Joking aside now, it seems quieter strapped-down to a piece of cast iron griddle, I would like to seperate the mechanism from the boards, but getting the laser sledge stop reed switch in the right place seems like it would be tricky. The switch is fixed to the board as standard
How critical is that switch positioning anyone?
Bill
Attachments
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Hi,
I am just biulding my own shigaclone. Already have a PS according to Peter`s design. I know this may sound silly, but could someone tell me how to connect it to the main transport board? Should it be this way or the other way round? The last thing I would like to do is burn my precious Ez31
Thanks in advance.
I am just biulding my own shigaclone. Already have a PS according to Peter`s design. I know this may sound silly, but could someone tell me how to connect it to the main transport board? Should it be this way or the other way round? The last thing I would like to do is burn my precious Ez31
Thanks in advance.
Attachments
Hi,
I am just biulding my own shigaclone. Already have a PS according to Peter`s design. I know this may sound silly, but could someone tell me how to connect it to the main transport board? Should it be this way or the other way round? The last thing I would like to do is burn my precious Ez31
Thanks in advance.
u have got it reversed (wrong way). u need to swop them around.
Guide to identifying a donor
Here's my two yens worth of advice on how ID the sanyo laser unit discussed in this thread.
You can't usually do it online, you have to go into a shop where they have boomboxes out on display... with a small torch (flashlight).
Look for the CD mounting pedestal with a screwdriver hole for unscrewing the motor from the chassis, many units have this same spindle pedestal so don't take this point too seriously.
Shine the torch through the laser slot and first make sure there is a circuit board about 1 inch 25mm under the laser sled. Then look for the group of three small electrolytics and the three empty holes marked DOUT (digital out),
+5V, and GND, you can also see the connector for the door switch next to these three holes.
I could get away with this in Japan... being 6'4" and an ugly brute, the store assistants didnt give me any grief. They probably thought I was mad... they're probably right!
You might get a different reaction in your area!
This is just a guide, this is what I did and found a Sanyo boombox in Japan which was a suitable donor.
I can't take responsibility if you find a boombox that looks like this and isn't the right one. Just trying to help.
Good luck.
Bill
Here's my two yens worth of advice on how ID the sanyo laser unit discussed in this thread.
You can't usually do it online, you have to go into a shop where they have boomboxes out on display... with a small torch (flashlight).
Look for the CD mounting pedestal with a screwdriver hole for unscrewing the motor from the chassis, many units have this same spindle pedestal so don't take this point too seriously.
Shine the torch through the laser slot and first make sure there is a circuit board about 1 inch 25mm under the laser sled. Then look for the group of three small electrolytics and the three empty holes marked DOUT (digital out),
+5V, and GND, you can also see the connector for the door switch next to these three holes.
I could get away with this in Japan... being 6'4" and an ugly brute, the store assistants didnt give me any grief. They probably thought I was mad... they're probably right!
You might get a different reaction in your area!
This is just a guide, this is what I did and found a Sanyo boombox in Japan which was a suitable donor.
I can't take responsibility if you find a boombox that looks like this and isn't the right one. Just trying to help.
Good luck.
Bill
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Sanyo Donor
I posted pictures last month over on the longer original thread.
I don't want to pollute or dilute this thread.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...ansport-shigaclone-story-414.html#post2341172
As far as I know this unit is not available outside of Japan and my local store tried to re-order but haven't been re-supplied yet.
Bill
I posted pictures last month over on the longer original thread.
I don't want to pollute or dilute this thread.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...ansport-shigaclone-story-414.html#post2341172
As far as I know this unit is not available outside of Japan and my local store tried to re-order but haven't been re-supplied yet.
Bill
It's not a problem, it's normal. Usually there is a coupling cap in a DAC (0.01uF or similar) and you don't have to do anything. If DAC does not lock to your transport, install such coupling cap at the output.
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