Hawaii Cars: 1985 Toyota Corolla GTS - YouTube
Nice blue and silver colors. A little bit rich on the blue but its not too bad.
Rest of the car is better. Love that shape.
Should've stuck with the quiet exhaust.
Nice blue and silver colors. A little bit rich on the blue but its not too bad.
Rest of the car is better. Love that shape.
Should've stuck with the quiet exhaust.
Spotted some ABS project boxes suitable for the Visaton SL 713 speakers:
158x90x60mm Clear Electronic Project Cover Box Enclosure Plastic Case Waterproof | eBay
158x90x60mm. The internal dimensions are perfect for fitting the speakers.
Might end up reusing them for a home audio system if I decide to stick with 6.5" speakers in the car door. If I don't like how they sound when they are hidden up underneath the dash. Doubtful I will be putting them ontop of the dash unless I point them upwards towards the windscreen.
The off-axis performance of the Pioneer TS-D1602R's are more than sufficient when using the inbuilt Sony WX-900BT DSP, without the DSP however they sound dull/lifeless.
158x90x60mm Clear Electronic Project Cover Box Enclosure Plastic Case Waterproof | eBay
158x90x60mm. The internal dimensions are perfect for fitting the speakers.
Might end up reusing them for a home audio system if I decide to stick with 6.5" speakers in the car door. If I don't like how they sound when they are hidden up underneath the dash. Doubtful I will be putting them ontop of the dash unless I point them upwards towards the windscreen.
The off-axis performance of the Pioneer TS-D1602R's are more than sufficient when using the inbuilt Sony WX-900BT DSP, without the DSP however they sound dull/lifeless.
Last edited:
Just ran an additional 8 meters of 35mm sq cable to the boot of my camry. So all-up I have 13 meters of 35mm sq cable in the car right now. As far as cable goes that is a lot of copper.
Everything is nice and safe because the cable is running inside of the car, ontop of that its all in plastic conduit with rubber grommets.
I did end up using that 3rd hole that I drilled in the firewall/floor. I figured I would pull as much power as I could inside of the car that way if I need it I will have it.
I have a single lead of 35mm sq cable going to a 6mm insulating terminal on the passengers side and a single lead of 35mm sq going directly to the boot alongside the passengers side floor near the doors underneath the carpet. Toyota was kind enough to leave some holes in the metalwork to run cable through around where the seat mounting points are.
So I now have the ability to not only run high powered ham radio gear in the car with the smallest possible voltage drop I also have the ability to run a secondary battery in the boot and run my amplifier from that.
I could theoretically run a ham radio transceiver from either the battery in the boot or the starter battery in the front with the radio on the passengers seat or floor from the drivers side position if there was an emergency.
I could even just setup a ham shack in the boot and run the transceiver from the secondary battery when camping and then use a mobile 100w HAM TX HF/2/70 or RF 27MHz/477MHz CB in the front with the radios permanently mounted and get a great signal both in and out.
Obviously if I'm running stuff from the starter battery I will be wanting to run the engine to keep it charged.
So I really have "two" power sources, the engine when its running and when I'm on the road, that is available in the front of the car while I'm driving, and I have a second boot power source for when I'm camping or the engine is not running.
If I wanted to I could even run a lead from the passengers side 6mm insulated lug and run that to the boot aswell purely for keeping things like a caravan or trailer battery fully charged. If I did that there would be two 35mm sq cables going into the boot, not entirely sure if thats even possible with the room available to me, but maybe.
I will be buying an intelligent battery isolator.
Everything is nice and safe because the cable is running inside of the car, ontop of that its all in plastic conduit with rubber grommets.
I did end up using that 3rd hole that I drilled in the firewall/floor. I figured I would pull as much power as I could inside of the car that way if I need it I will have it.
I have a single lead of 35mm sq cable going to a 6mm insulating terminal on the passengers side and a single lead of 35mm sq going directly to the boot alongside the passengers side floor near the doors underneath the carpet. Toyota was kind enough to leave some holes in the metalwork to run cable through around where the seat mounting points are.
So I now have the ability to not only run high powered ham radio gear in the car with the smallest possible voltage drop I also have the ability to run a secondary battery in the boot and run my amplifier from that.
I could theoretically run a ham radio transceiver from either the battery in the boot or the starter battery in the front with the radio on the passengers seat or floor from the drivers side position if there was an emergency.
I could even just setup a ham shack in the boot and run the transceiver from the secondary battery when camping and then use a mobile 100w HAM TX HF/2/70 or RF 27MHz/477MHz CB in the front with the radios permanently mounted and get a great signal both in and out.
Obviously if I'm running stuff from the starter battery I will be wanting to run the engine to keep it charged.
So I really have "two" power sources, the engine when its running and when I'm on the road, that is available in the front of the car while I'm driving, and I have a second boot power source for when I'm camping or the engine is not running.
If I wanted to I could even run a lead from the passengers side 6mm insulated lug and run that to the boot aswell purely for keeping things like a caravan or trailer battery fully charged. If I did that there would be two 35mm sq cables going into the boot, not entirely sure if thats even possible with the room available to me, but maybe.
I will be buying an intelligent battery isolator.
Last edited:
What are you going to be using for an antenna? I keep a Buddipole deluxe kit in the trunk of my car for those times when stationary and need / want a more efficient antenna than the typical mobile setup, but still portable. I use it at our second house, also.
Win W5JAG
I'm in the middle of building up my ham radio gear again after selling a Yaesu FT-817 recently. I'll be buying an Icom IC-7200.
I will be buying a Opek HVT600 for HF mobile operation combined with a magnet mount and a few monopoles.
For portable/camping operation on HF and around the house I'm using a Superantenna MP1.
For more permanent camping I've got a 40 meter dipole wire antenna but I will probably only use it for listening in as I refuse to buy an antenna tuner. $$$ reasons
For 2/70 I'm going to get a cheapo QYT or other brand HK set for mounting inside of the car as for antennas I'll probably get a Nagoya NL-770SL with a magnet mount or a Supergainer SL-7200.
Last edited:
I would recommend caution in using the "PCB" type LED lights for T5 and T10 replacements, ones with a ballast resistor on them. They run rather hotter than the diffuser style LED lights and as a result aren't as efficient. Not as bad as incandescent but still the whole point of going with LED is to save on power.
In their replacement I'm going to get some cob style white LEDs, I have some and they run cool.
While their light quality is better diffused they do run hotter. I pulled all of the ones out of my dash just then as a result of this.
In their replacement I'm going to get some cob style white LEDs, I have some and they run cool.
While their light quality is better diffused they do run hotter. I pulled all of the ones out of my dash just then as a result of this.
Attachments
Last edited:
Looks like a digital version of that old mini suspension!
I’d never seen that before, thanks for sharing.
The Porsche 959 had an adaptive suspension of sorts, however most of the enthusiasts would replace them with conventional Bilsteins...
I’d never seen that before, thanks for sharing.
The Porsche 959 had an adaptive suspension of sorts, however most of the enthusiasts would replace them with conventional Bilsteins...
Yeah its like having digitally modulated solenoids as struts. Not entirely sure if the struts are electromagnetic in nature or air powered in the Bose system.
I remember as a kid playing around with a set of air struts that my brother had in the garage, would be interesting to see if I could get some ordinary strut towers and drill some holes into them to raise and lower their stiffness at will by injecting and removing nitrogen or air.
I remember as a kid playing around with a set of air struts that my brother had in the garage, would be interesting to see if I could get some ordinary strut towers and drill some holes into them to raise and lower their stiffness at will by injecting and removing nitrogen or air.
Last edited:
There was an aftermarket version of some adjustable struts I recall; was an actuator on top that would turn a small valve down inside. Not the same as an active setup though really.
Anyone else had good luck cleaning fuel injectors with an ultrasonic cleaner and/or with the typical spray can method?
One of mine is stuck open and I pulled the whole lot so I can get them either cleaned or replaced.
I'm considering getting an ultrasonic cleaner and I've already bought a spray can cleaning nozzle kit and seeing how well they flow before and after cleaning them in that.
One of mine is stuck open and I pulled the whole lot so I can get them either cleaned or replaced.
I'm considering getting an ultrasonic cleaner and I've already bought a spray can cleaning nozzle kit and seeing how well they flow before and after cleaning them in that.
I rang Toyota's spare parts department and got a quote for a set of fuel injectors for my car. I kind of expected it to be high priced but was hoping that they weren't.
Got quoted $462.94 for one fuel injector. Not six, one.
And people say fuel injection is all that great. You can get a whole brand new carburettor for that much.
I'm going to ring around and see if I can't find some cheaper aftermarket ones from Bursons and Repco/Supercheap and the like. If they too are too expensive then I will buy a set of refurbished ones off ebay for $130.
Got quoted $462.94 for one fuel injector. Not six, one.
And people say fuel injection is all that great. You can get a whole brand new carburettor for that much.
I'm going to ring around and see if I can't find some cheaper aftermarket ones from Bursons and Repco/Supercheap and the like. If they too are too expensive then I will buy a set of refurbished ones off ebay for $130.
Last edited:
I rang Toyota's spare parts department and got a quote for a set of fuel injectors for my car. I kind of expected it to be high priced but was hoping that they weren't.
Got quoted $462.94 for one fuel injector. Not six, one.
And people say fuel injection is all that great. You can get a whole brand new carburettor for that much.
I'm going to ring around and see if I can't find some cheaper aftermarket ones from Bursons and Repco/Supercheap and the like. If they too are too expensive then I will buy a set of refurbished ones off ebay for $130.
Look around elsewhere for injectors. Car dealers can really suck for pricing. Hopefully someone here knows a better source. What year and make is your car? I have four cars with fairly high mileage and have never seen injector problems.
Thanks for your kind and helpful reply!
I rang around and nobody had any so I got a set off ebay.
6 x FUEL INJECTORS TOYOTA HILUX LANDCRUISER PRADO 4RUNNER 5VZFE 3.4L | eBay
I ended up buying these. $127.99 AUD before a 10% off coupon.
My car is a Vienta Grande V6 Sedan with the 3VZ-FE engine.
I have never had injector problems either but apparently I do have one. I've checked the injectors themselves with the screwdriver method and they all fire and I've checked the computer injector outputs with the light bulb connected to positive battery test method, they all work fine. I used youtube for the help in doing these tests.
I ran the fuel tank down to almost empty but I still had a little bit of gas left, thought it was enough to not burn the fuel pump out and drove it down the street and back (a few hundred meters) for a test drive after doing the big 3 cable installation and simply moving an O2 sensor cable a few inches across to make things neater. Soon as it got back it started having a misfire and the misfire didn't let up despite filling the gas tank and adding fuel injector cleaner. White smoke was coming out the tailpipe which isn't water but a fuel injector stuck open. It isn't steam because the problem is intermittent and it won't occur when the engine is cold but it will come back intermittently and I'm not losing any coolant.
I doubt that the fuel pump is blown but I will probably replace that for $59.99 with a Kelpro or a Denso for $130. The car has 359,000km so its probably overdue. I'll also probably replace the ignition leads as they are the originals.
I rang around and nobody had any so I got a set off ebay.
6 x FUEL INJECTORS TOYOTA HILUX LANDCRUISER PRADO 4RUNNER 5VZFE 3.4L | eBay
I ended up buying these. $127.99 AUD before a 10% off coupon.
My car is a Vienta Grande V6 Sedan with the 3VZ-FE engine.
I have never had injector problems either but apparently I do have one. I've checked the injectors themselves with the screwdriver method and they all fire and I've checked the computer injector outputs with the light bulb connected to positive battery test method, they all work fine. I used youtube for the help in doing these tests.
I ran the fuel tank down to almost empty but I still had a little bit of gas left, thought it was enough to not burn the fuel pump out and drove it down the street and back (a few hundred meters) for a test drive after doing the big 3 cable installation and simply moving an O2 sensor cable a few inches across to make things neater. Soon as it got back it started having a misfire and the misfire didn't let up despite filling the gas tank and adding fuel injector cleaner. White smoke was coming out the tailpipe which isn't water but a fuel injector stuck open. It isn't steam because the problem is intermittent and it won't occur when the engine is cold but it will come back intermittently and I'm not losing any coolant.
I doubt that the fuel pump is blown but I will probably replace that for $59.99 with a Kelpro or a Denso for $130. The car has 359,000km so its probably overdue. I'll also probably replace the ignition leads as they are the originals.
Last edited:
I had a look at the injectors and the metal pintle caps are clogged up heavily with carbon, damn EGR systems, anyway this type of injector is air assisted and they need those holes to be open to suck in air and make the spray pattern correct, seems to be a common theme with this engine is that the entire intake is filled up with carbon.
I've cleaned the throttle body and intake manifold before and its spotless but the part of the intake manifold that sits ontop of the engine between the two heads (V6 engine) is still filthy and has carbon buildup all over the intake. The intake makes up 3 separate parts.
I will have to get the intake manifold off and clean it out thoroughly but the biggest problem right now is getting the injectors cleaned properly with either an ultrasonic cleaner and doing it myself or getting them done at a shop. Deciding on weather or not I need another piece of equipment floating around.
Getting the last bit of the intake manifold off is going to be a pain, last time I tried to get it off I used a crowbar (gently) and it wouldn't budge. The reason for this is that the gaskets are made from a sticky rubber substance and they basically cement the surfaces to each other. I've got new metal/rubber intake gaskets to replace it and they stuck themselves together and I had to use a flathead screwdriver to get them apart from each other.
I can't clean the intake manifold section as is on the engine as any and all fluids and dirt and grime that I clean off will go into the engine.
I've cleaned the throttle body and intake manifold before and its spotless but the part of the intake manifold that sits ontop of the engine between the two heads (V6 engine) is still filthy and has carbon buildup all over the intake. The intake makes up 3 separate parts.
I will have to get the intake manifold off and clean it out thoroughly but the biggest problem right now is getting the injectors cleaned properly with either an ultrasonic cleaner and doing it myself or getting them done at a shop. Deciding on weather or not I need another piece of equipment floating around.
Getting the last bit of the intake manifold off is going to be a pain, last time I tried to get it off I used a crowbar (gently) and it wouldn't budge. The reason for this is that the gaskets are made from a sticky rubber substance and they basically cement the surfaces to each other. I've got new metal/rubber intake gaskets to replace it and they stuck themselves together and I had to use a flathead screwdriver to get them apart from each other.
I can't clean the intake manifold section as is on the engine as any and all fluids and dirt and grime that I clean off will go into the engine.
Last edited:
In other news I've received the Rockville RVL69W speakers and I will probably need to do some minor adjustments to the frame of the rear parcel shelf to get them to fit. Pretty sure that I do anyway. It isn't that much of an adjustment just taking off a small millimeter or two of the edging on one side of the 6x9 hole in the metal of the parcel shelf to make the basket clear it.
A dremel with a large cutting bit should do the trick nicely.
A dremel with a large cutting bit should do the trick nicely.
I would definately replace the ignition parts asap, that and change the oil every 2k for about 20k to get it all cleaned out again. Pretty sure those hilux 3.4l injectors are different than the 3.0 parts...
Might even want to check the compression to see if the rings are clogged up too.
Might even want to check the compression to see if the rings are clogged up too.
Yeah I'm going to buy some Eagle ignition leads ($130) and a distributor cap and rotor from toyota next payday.
They are the same part number as the parts that I pulled from the car last week. 23250-62030
I don't think there is any need for that aside from peace of mind, I could get a compression test done fairly easily.
This engine has no blowby and no consumption of oil back through the PCV valve. I did a thorough inspection of the car before buying it and I didn't see any symptoms or signs of blowby or headgasket issues.
While it would be nice to rebuild the engine for peace of mind I would like to see how many 100's of km's I can get out of the engine.
The carbon buildup in the intake is merely as a result of doing 350,000km and never being cleaned. There is no oil present on the surface of the intake manifold which is usually present when an engine has excessive blowby.
Last edited: