I don't think its going to be much of an issue here good buddy!
The car thread
If you have a look at that post the factory plastic shroud pushes the speaker cone well away from any area inside of the door which will see water. And the plastic shroud even has a drain "track" at the bottom of the plastic shroud to make any water drip down and back into the door frame. + The factory speakers are paper and they show no signs of water damage or even rust.
Certainly a lot of chin rubbing has gone into this build so far. 😀
What stops me from buying a driver is the depth, but I'm not 100% sure on what my actual maximum depth is, I forgot what it was. I know that its not much more than 60mm which means that the Soundstorm SLQ365 will suit quite well. But if its 70mm or longer I can fit in a sundown NeoPro V2 ($$$) or a Seas/Vifa driver. I'll have to make sure which means taking the car apart again, which I was hoping to finish off the drivers side and move on but I'm not happy with the Pioneer polyprop driver so I get to pull apart a car again. yay.
The seas CA18RLY might fit with its 71mm depth but it would probably end up being a tight fit with some glass grating along the back.
H1217-08 CA18RLY
And then there is the fact that its probably closer to 7 inches than it is to 6.5" which wont with my basket, and then there is the fact that its a 8 ohm driver and not 4 ohms which means I'll have just 30 watts RMS or less instead of 60 watts RMS, not too big of a deal but might be because then I will have to move onto a higher power Class-AB amp or even class D.
The car thread
If you have a look at that post the factory plastic shroud pushes the speaker cone well away from any area inside of the door which will see water. And the plastic shroud even has a drain "track" at the bottom of the plastic shroud to make any water drip down and back into the door frame. + The factory speakers are paper and they show no signs of water damage or even rust.
Certainly a lot of chin rubbing has gone into this build so far. 😀
What stops me from buying a driver is the depth, but I'm not 100% sure on what my actual maximum depth is, I forgot what it was. I know that its not much more than 60mm which means that the Soundstorm SLQ365 will suit quite well. But if its 70mm or longer I can fit in a sundown NeoPro V2 ($$$) or a Seas/Vifa driver. I'll have to make sure which means taking the car apart again, which I was hoping to finish off the drivers side and move on but I'm not happy with the Pioneer polyprop driver so I get to pull apart a car again. yay.
The seas CA18RLY might fit with its 71mm depth but it would probably end up being a tight fit with some glass grating along the back.
H1217-08 CA18RLY
And then there is the fact that its probably closer to 7 inches than it is to 6.5" which wont with my basket, and then there is the fact that its a 8 ohm driver and not 4 ohms which means I'll have just 30 watts RMS or less instead of 60 watts RMS, not too big of a deal but might be because then I will have to move onto a higher power Class-AB amp or even class D.
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I couldn't even fit a 5 inch speaker into the factory plastic basket that is meant for a 6.5" because if I did then the speaker would be out too far and the cone would make contact with the factory dust cover that is on the door trim because I would have to use a perspex or thin mdf to adapt it to the original factory mounting points on the plastic speaker shroud/mount.
And if I wanted to make my own basket out of MDF using spacers I would have to curve it so that I don't have to remove the plastic speaker dust cover on the door trim. So basically if I wanted to fit in a couple of seas speakers I would have to remove that plastic dust cover.
The amount of depth between the front cone of the speaker and the plastic dust cover that I'm allowed to work with is miniscule.
I could go all nuts and remove the factory door trim speaker dust covers, fit up some 6.5" seas speakers there with some of my own homemade mdf spacers and call it a day but what would be the point? its more work than it pays off to get seas drivers into it.
It would look ugly. It would work but it would look ugly.
There is also the question of weather or not I would be able to hear the difference with the new seas speaker sitting right plumb up against the right side of my leg which I have to put into that position to use the throttle. All of the sound would be blocked by my leg.
And if I wanted to make my own basket out of MDF using spacers I would have to curve it so that I don't have to remove the plastic speaker dust cover on the door trim. So basically if I wanted to fit in a couple of seas speakers I would have to remove that plastic dust cover.
The amount of depth between the front cone of the speaker and the plastic dust cover that I'm allowed to work with is miniscule.
I could go all nuts and remove the factory door trim speaker dust covers, fit up some 6.5" seas speakers there with some of my own homemade mdf spacers and call it a day but what would be the point? its more work than it pays off to get seas drivers into it.
It would look ugly. It would work but it would look ugly.
There is also the question of weather or not I would be able to hear the difference with the new seas speaker sitting right plumb up against the right side of my leg which I have to put into that position to use the throttle. All of the sound would be blocked by my leg.
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Plants love CO2
Here's my contribution to the car thread for this weekend folks... get a real coalroller and make the planet greener! 😀
This year has been a truck fest with several new models displayed from the major brands, enjoy real men.
Youtube - 2019 Ram Laramie Longhorn
Youtube - Chevrolet Silverado (2019)
Youtube - 2019 GMC Sierra
Here's my contribution to the car thread for this weekend folks... get a real coalroller and make the planet greener! 😀
This year has been a truck fest with several new models displayed from the major brands, enjoy real men.
Youtube - 2019 Ram Laramie Longhorn
Youtube - Chevrolet Silverado (2019)
Youtube - 2019 GMC Sierra
I've found the problem with the new pioneer speaker. I forgot to seal around the front of the speaker and I was listening to the soundwaves coming from the currently-open area of the door trim where my power window controls are. So looks like I'm on the hunt for some foam rings.
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I would just get a small fr unit, cut a hole for it in some suitable position on the dashboard. Put maybe a good small bass driver in the door. Xo somewhere between 2-300hz.
yep that is what I want to do aswell. I was hoping for an all in one solution with the pioneer but its just too far off axis to be of any benefit.
I'm thinking of putting a pair of mdf speaker boxes on the front dash facing directly towards the driver and passenger. Along with a tweeter mounted on the side of each box.
But the question is finding the right size box and what will work without obstructing the road too much. It would have to be 100% diy fabbed at home with mdf from the hardware store.
Tomorrow I'll consider going down and buying some mdf and in the meantime come up with some designs using a 4 inch or smaller driver.
Something similar in design to this, with the speaker laying down, would work better with the windscreen: PIONEER TS 44 Surface Mount Dash Pod Car Van Motorhome car Audio Sound Speaker | eBay
PIONEER TS-X200 4" 3-WAY SURFACE MOUNT CAR SPEAKERS SET 12562165141 | eBayhttps://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Pioneer...014830&hash=item2aa0d173df:g:up4AAOSwgsxajM2O
I'm thinking of putting a pair of mdf speaker boxes on the front dash facing directly towards the driver and passenger. Along with a tweeter mounted on the side of each box.
But the question is finding the right size box and what will work without obstructing the road too much. It would have to be 100% diy fabbed at home with mdf from the hardware store.
Tomorrow I'll consider going down and buying some mdf and in the meantime come up with some designs using a 4 inch or smaller driver.
Something similar in design to this, with the speaker laying down, would work better with the windscreen: PIONEER TS 44 Surface Mount Dash Pod Car Van Motorhome car Audio Sound Speaker | eBay
PIONEER TS-X200 4" 3-WAY SURFACE MOUNT CAR SPEAKERS SET 12562165141 | eBayhttps://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Pioneer...014830&hash=item2aa0d173df:g:up4AAOSwgsxajM2O
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Yep. I couldn't cut my dash up though, simply not enough room for any speaker anywhere unless I mount just one on the passengers side facing upwards and even then it might conflict with the computer/ecu underneath the dash in that area. The japanese were very thorough in making as little space as possible that sits unused behind the dash.
H1600-04 FU10RB
A pair of the FU10RB drivers mounted on a piece of flat vertical thin mdf might fit into the very small space between my a-pillar and dash.
Big question on my mind is how am I going to seal it up? Chicken wire and fiberglass maybe.
I found these prefabbed "tweeter" speaker boxes on ebay:
Beyma PH35 4" Tweeter Box Enclosure Car Speaker Box Coaxial 3" Inside Diameter | eBay
They won't work for me but might work for you. it all depends on how your windscreen is curved, if its at a nasty angle like mine they won't work at all.
I could buy them then chop the back off and glue a piece of thin mdf board on the back so that they will sit flush up against the windscreen but then I've got the a-pillar to worry about so it might not work. The FU10RB drivers are only 1.7 inches deep so I've got plenty of space there to cut the box up and make it work.
TBH I think its best that I forget about fitting 4 inch drivers up on my dash and go with something a bit smaller like those tv speakers that I mentioned in a post above.
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Actually, for a car I would rather look at the smaller 3.5" units, like the Faital 3FE25 or the Vifa TC9.
Not a whole lot smaller, but a little bit goes a long way sometimes.
Not a whole lot smaller, but a little bit goes a long way sometimes.
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yep that is more like it. I would go with the neodymium magnet type of the Faital Pro tho so you have more room to work around the back.
I'm still thinking smaller though something like that speaker that I mentioned above in post The car thread
125x45mm each. four or six of them along the front dash wired in parallel. But something with more xmax.
I'm still thinking smaller though something like that speaker that I mentioned above in post The car thread
125x45mm each. four or six of them along the front dash wired in parallel. But something with more xmax.
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a set of 12.5 x 5.8 (4.92 x 2.2 inches) should do the trick:
10W 8 Ohm Rectangle Magnet Speaker Loudspeaker Amplifier 12.5 x 5.8cm | eBay
Visaton makes some rectangle speakers too: Magnetically Shielded Speakers | Visaton
Soundlabs Group: Oval Drivers
a wide selection to choose from.
10W 8 Ohm Rectangle Magnet Speaker Loudspeaker Amplifier 12.5 x 5.8cm | eBay
Visaton makes some rectangle speakers too: Magnetically Shielded Speakers | Visaton
Soundlabs Group: Oval Drivers
a wide selection to choose from.
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7 x 13 cm speakers would "fit" but won't work. I went down and measured for the 3rd time this night. I would be hesitant to use them because they would more than likely cut off the airflow going to the windscreen for my window demister especially once you count in the fact that the boxes that I would make would take up that room.
This car has very little room, You might get away with fitting a phone book on the front dash but it would be flush up against the windscreen.
This car has very little room, You might get away with fitting a phone book on the front dash but it would be flush up against the windscreen.
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I ended up pulling the trigger on a pair of 7 x 13's on soundlabs.com.au
If I can't put them up on the dash I can mount them vertically on the center console of the car or underneath the dash facing towards my head.
This way I will have a 3-way system, I haven't yet decided the cutoff frequencies but I'll do some testing of the drivers first once its all installed and operating for that. But I do know that I'll have a tweeter up on the dash, midrange in the center console near my leg, and use the in-door speakers for woofers.
If I can't put them up on the dash I can mount them vertically on the center console of the car or underneath the dash facing towards my head.
This way I will have a 3-way system, I haven't yet decided the cutoff frequencies but I'll do some testing of the drivers first once its all installed and operating for that. But I do know that I'll have a tweeter up on the dash, midrange in the center console near my leg, and use the in-door speakers for woofers.
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CD Receiver with BLUETOOTH(R) Wireless Technology | WX-900BT | Sony AU
This head unit has time alignment inbuilt for a head unit that is only $164 AUD.
I think this unit combined with some well placed crossovers should do the trick.
The Sony unit also puports to have a 120dB SNR for CD playback.....
What interests me the most is the 3 sets of stereo outputs on the rear. 2 for front, 2 for rear, 2 for subwoofer.
This head unit has time alignment inbuilt for a head unit that is only $164 AUD.
I think this unit combined with some well placed crossovers should do the trick.
The Sony unit also puports to have a 120dB SNR for CD playback.....
What interests me the most is the 3 sets of stereo outputs on the rear. 2 for front, 2 for rear, 2 for subwoofer.
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I have been looking at these types of players, it's so dirt cheap (~14$€£) one couldn't care less if it broke, a cheap class-D amp would mate well to get little bit noise out of it.
MP3 Decodierung Bord 4,0 Bluetooth Wireless Audio Modul USB SD Radio APE FLAC WMA AUX Externe Signalquelle Storungen Bord in MP3 Decodierung Bord 4,0 Bluetooth Wireless Audio Modul USB SD Radio APE FLAC WMA AUX Externe Signalquelle Storungen Bord aus Integrierte Schaltungen auf AliExpress.com | Alibaba Group
edit: the inspiration came from this thread tuner modules that dont suck
MP3 Decodierung Bord 4,0 Bluetooth Wireless Audio Modul USB SD Radio APE FLAC WMA AUX Externe Signalquelle Storungen Bord in MP3 Decodierung Bord 4,0 Bluetooth Wireless Audio Modul USB SD Radio APE FLAC WMA AUX Externe Signalquelle Storungen Bord aus Integrierte Schaltungen auf AliExpress.com | Alibaba Group
edit: the inspiration came from this thread tuner modules that dont suck
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I went down that path myself and made an alps volume control and mounted it onto a flat single din plate intended for a nissan. I then got a bluetooth receiver/sender module for $30 off ebay with optical output and realised that I also needed an AV switch for switching between the stock AM/FM Cassette receiver that was single din, then I needed to buy 3x external 2 channel Class-AB amplifiers in order to realise the full potential of the system, along with crossovers and new speakers ontop of that.
In the end I ended up spending more money than what the Sony head unit that I mentioned above in parts just to get the same result. Only this time I didn't have time correction or a cd player or a user interface to change tracks with, I ended also buying coax and rca connectors to make cables going to and from the alps volume control. and I ended up having to look down at my phone's screen just to change a sound track, while driving, very dangerous.
What did I learn? Not much. If you want a 3 way crossover with DSP and bluetooth and a decent user interface and the best sound quality the Pioneer DEH-80PRS is well and truly good value for money because by the time that you make your own head unit out of spare parts it ends up costing about the same amount once you factor in the cost of a separate DSP and DAC and all associated wiring.
And last night I ripped all of that diy stuff that I made out of the car and put it into a bag and this morning ordered the Sony WX-900BT. Not because I wanted the head unit for high sound quality but because it should have good enough sound quality with time adjustment and bluetooth and 120 dB SNR cd playback and AM/FM radio (which I rarely use now) along with an easy to use user interface/buttons/volume knob, which is a rarity nowdays in the world of touch screens which force you to look down at the screen to see where you are putting your finger before you can even change something as simple as a radio station. I hate that, I'm a nervous enough driver as it is.
I'm vehemently opposed like a spoilt little girl against caving in and buying the Pioneer DEH-80PRS mainly because of being afraid of feeling like I'm spoiling myself and throwing money away on such a frivilous thing such as car audio. I would feel too spoilt running around the neighbourhood with a $460 head unit in my car.. So I kind of want to make it as cheap as possible but also as good as possible.
I honestly don't know how people who own Mercedes Benzes and luxury cars can live with themselves with such a waste of money.
What a strange web we weave in our minds. We want to be cheap but we want it to also be high quality... the two rarely go together yet we are very strongly determined to try and make it work, even sacrificing our sanity to do so.
In the end I ended up spending more money than what the Sony head unit that I mentioned above in parts just to get the same result. Only this time I didn't have time correction or a cd player or a user interface to change tracks with, I ended also buying coax and rca connectors to make cables going to and from the alps volume control. and I ended up having to look down at my phone's screen just to change a sound track, while driving, very dangerous.
What did I learn? Not much. If you want a 3 way crossover with DSP and bluetooth and a decent user interface and the best sound quality the Pioneer DEH-80PRS is well and truly good value for money because by the time that you make your own head unit out of spare parts it ends up costing about the same amount once you factor in the cost of a separate DSP and DAC and all associated wiring.
And last night I ripped all of that diy stuff that I made out of the car and put it into a bag and this morning ordered the Sony WX-900BT. Not because I wanted the head unit for high sound quality but because it should have good enough sound quality with time adjustment and bluetooth and 120 dB SNR cd playback and AM/FM radio (which I rarely use now) along with an easy to use user interface/buttons/volume knob, which is a rarity nowdays in the world of touch screens which force you to look down at the screen to see where you are putting your finger before you can even change something as simple as a radio station. I hate that, I'm a nervous enough driver as it is.
I'm vehemently opposed like a spoilt little girl against caving in and buying the Pioneer DEH-80PRS mainly because of being afraid of feeling like I'm spoiling myself and throwing money away on such a frivilous thing such as car audio. I would feel too spoilt running around the neighbourhood with a $460 head unit in my car.. So I kind of want to make it as cheap as possible but also as good as possible.
I honestly don't know how people who own Mercedes Benzes and luxury cars can live with themselves with such a waste of money.
What a strange web we weave in our minds. We want to be cheap but we want it to also be high quality... the two rarely go together yet we are very strongly determined to try and make it work, even sacrificing our sanity to do so.
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This head unit has DAB which is applicable for australian consumers:
DDX9018S | Multimedia and Navigation | Car Electronics | KENWOOD Middle East, Mediterranean & Africa
Doubt I would be able to get good coverage here in this region though but it would be interesting to find out.
There is still a question mark over its sound quality performance but it does state that it has 0.010% THD. It also has all the usual goodies like 3x 5v preamp outputs, time alignment, 13 band eq, 3 way crossover, etc.
Another interesting feature is collision avoidance with an optional crash camera that plugs into the head unit.....
DDX9018S | Multimedia and Navigation | Car Electronics | KENWOOD Middle East, Mediterranean & Africa
Doubt I would be able to get good coverage here in this region though but it would be interesting to find out.
There is still a question mark over its sound quality performance but it does state that it has 0.010% THD. It also has all the usual goodies like 3x 5v preamp outputs, time alignment, 13 band eq, 3 way crossover, etc.
Another interesting feature is collision avoidance with an optional crash camera that plugs into the head unit.....
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There is also the Kenwood DPX-7100DAB DPX-7100DAB | 1DIN & 2DIN Receivers | Car Electronics | KENWOOD Australia
for the much cheaper price of $264 AUD.
With DAB+, usb, bluetooth and 3x 4v preamp outputs, time alignment. 3 way crossover. Only a 105dB SNR on usb sources though.
for the much cheaper price of $264 AUD.
With DAB+, usb, bluetooth and 3x 4v preamp outputs, time alignment. 3 way crossover. Only a 105dB SNR on usb sources though.