I had a 215 that was going to find itself into something, however I sold it to a Jeep owner, a suitable death...
My favorite gm v6 was the 4 cam, 60 degree engines from the nineties, had huge intake ports, long runners, and valves. You could play with the cam timing, do a little porting and tuning to get over 300hp, no turbo.
Early sixties rear mains were a rope seal right? I think they’ve improved those gradually, going to a split rubber seal, then really pulling out all the stops and using a normal seal.
My favorite gm v6 was the 4 cam, 60 degree engines from the nineties, had huge intake ports, long runners, and valves. You could play with the cam timing, do a little porting and tuning to get over 300hp, no turbo.
Early sixties rear mains were a rope seal right? I think they’ve improved those gradually, going to a split rubber seal, then really pulling out all the stops and using a normal seal.
I had a brainwave this afternoon and it hit me. Why aren't we using sound bars on the dash of cars for midrange and high end?
Placing quite a few 1.5 inch speakers in an mdf rectangular box that isn't too deep to cut off the defroster airflow from the front windscreen. Mount a few of these on the front of the dash like they are instrument clusters and you've got yourself a decent sounding stereo in any car with up-front midrange and high end response right where its needed the most.
Best part is that if you have a mostly flat or slightly curved dash they could be fitted into just about any car in 5 minutes.
Placing quite a few 1.5 inch speakers in an mdf rectangular box that isn't too deep to cut off the defroster airflow from the front windscreen. Mount a few of these on the front of the dash like they are instrument clusters and you've got yourself a decent sounding stereo in any car with up-front midrange and high end response right where its needed the most.
Best part is that if you have a mostly flat or slightly curved dash they could be fitted into just about any car in 5 minutes.
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I thought this was a nice bit of positive news about homeless people living in their cars and various other RV homeowners:
Judge declares man's truck 'his home' in ruling that could affect hundreds of homeless people | FOX13
Judge declares man's truck 'his home' in ruling that could affect hundreds of homeless people | FOX13
AFAIK, Jaguar used a rope seal on the V12 rear main to contain about 10 quarts of oil, right up to 1992, when Ford stroked the engine out to 6 litres, and went with a real neoprene seal. Fortunately, mine is a '93.
Weird trivia - the bolt pattern for V12 automatic cars, is, and always has, been GM. My V12 Forduar uses a GM 4L80E tranny, and has sufficient torque such that first gear is only rarely used - normal starts are in second. In the middle of the night I once popped an atf line to the cooler when the car was, um, at a high velocity .... Must have been quite a rooster tail of dexron. The transmission just shrugged it off.
Win W5JAG
Weird trivia - the bolt pattern for V12 automatic cars, is, and always has, been GM. My V12 Forduar uses a GM 4L80E tranny, and has sufficient torque such that first gear is only rarely used - normal starts are in second. In the middle of the night I once popped an atf line to the cooler when the car was, um, at a high velocity .... Must have been quite a rooster tail of dexron. The transmission just shrugged it off.
Win W5JAG
Lucky the atf didn’t lubricate the rear tires...
I always knew about the hydramatic transmissions in Jaguars from way back, but figured they used a different bellhousing. Pontiac, Buick, Olds, and Chevy have used unique bolt patterns.
That’s a pretty cool move by that judge in Seattle. I have mixed feelings about the homeless problems and how they are handled, but that one seems to make sense at least.
Don’t mess with someone’s ride.
They should have also mandated some form of visual inspections to make sure the vehicles, or homes rather are at least safe from a fire hazard standpoint, and will run, like they do with boats.
I always knew about the hydramatic transmissions in Jaguars from way back, but figured they used a different bellhousing. Pontiac, Buick, Olds, and Chevy have used unique bolt patterns.
That’s a pretty cool move by that judge in Seattle. I have mixed feelings about the homeless problems and how they are handled, but that one seems to make sense at least.
Don’t mess with someone’s ride.
They should have also mandated some form of visual inspections to make sure the vehicles, or homes rather are at least safe from a fire hazard standpoint, and will run, like they do with boats.
I finally finished my 2 channel Pioneer GM-A3602 amp installation today. It has 35mmSQ cable going to the battery with a 6mm stud mount on the passenger side screwed onto the center exhaust manifold tunnel. This is so that I can share the 35mmSQ cable going to the battery for use with ham radio gear as well as for powering the 2 channel amplifier.
Battery voltage at the amplifier terminals was measured to be 12.06v with the engine off, I didn't check the battery voltage but it is pretty healthy so I was expecting to get at least 13v, so I should probably redo the earth mount point inside of the car and sand back some of the paint. Everything is protected with two layers of heatshrink at each stud along with a 100 amp circuit breaker and conduit going the entire length of each cable run.
For an earth for the 2 channel amplifier I found two factory bolts which is also used to earth the entire front dash electronics to the chassis which I used for double duty for the amplifier. But as I've said in the previous paragraph I will probably have to redo this mount point and sand back some of the paint but there is a piece of steel plate that goes over this point and that might be difficult to remove to sand back the paint to bare metal.
I will double check the battery voltage tomorrow and the voltage at the amplifier and calculate the voltage drop tomorrow and see if I really need to be finding another earth mount point or making one.
The Pioneer GM-A3602 amplifier has extremely low distortion and tons of power to power the front single installed Pioneer TS-D1602R. The old toyota speaker that is still installed in the passengers side couldn't handle the power and started to clip fairly soon but had substantially more bass than the pioneer speaker did.
So lots of work to do yet and I haven't even gotten around to installing the subwoofer and amplifier in the rear.
The installed drivers side pioneer speaker was lacking in bass but it did have a little bit of midrange bass and it was also lacking in high end but the lack of high end could be simply because the speaker is at a 90 degree right angle to my ears and I might end up gaining high end by finishing the passengers side speaker installation.
There is no clue to me as to why the speaker lacks bass, its really not meant for it but I would've expected it to at least produce the bass that the original factory speaker could produce. It might be because I've completely sealed up the speaker to the frame and that the factory speakers were behaving like a baffle loaded loudspeaker.
It could be that the airtight seal into the door cavity that the speaker is mounted against is too high of a load for the loudspeaker and it cannot produce any bass as a result.
Battery voltage at the amplifier terminals was measured to be 12.06v with the engine off, I didn't check the battery voltage but it is pretty healthy so I was expecting to get at least 13v, so I should probably redo the earth mount point inside of the car and sand back some of the paint. Everything is protected with two layers of heatshrink at each stud along with a 100 amp circuit breaker and conduit going the entire length of each cable run.
For an earth for the 2 channel amplifier I found two factory bolts which is also used to earth the entire front dash electronics to the chassis which I used for double duty for the amplifier. But as I've said in the previous paragraph I will probably have to redo this mount point and sand back some of the paint but there is a piece of steel plate that goes over this point and that might be difficult to remove to sand back the paint to bare metal.
I will double check the battery voltage tomorrow and the voltage at the amplifier and calculate the voltage drop tomorrow and see if I really need to be finding another earth mount point or making one.
The Pioneer GM-A3602 amplifier has extremely low distortion and tons of power to power the front single installed Pioneer TS-D1602R. The old toyota speaker that is still installed in the passengers side couldn't handle the power and started to clip fairly soon but had substantially more bass than the pioneer speaker did.
So lots of work to do yet and I haven't even gotten around to installing the subwoofer and amplifier in the rear.
The installed drivers side pioneer speaker was lacking in bass but it did have a little bit of midrange bass and it was also lacking in high end but the lack of high end could be simply because the speaker is at a 90 degree right angle to my ears and I might end up gaining high end by finishing the passengers side speaker installation.
There is no clue to me as to why the speaker lacks bass, its really not meant for it but I would've expected it to at least produce the bass that the original factory speaker could produce. It might be because I've completely sealed up the speaker to the frame and that the factory speakers were behaving like a baffle loaded loudspeaker.
It could be that the airtight seal into the door cavity that the speaker is mounted against is too high of a load for the loudspeaker and it cannot produce any bass as a result.
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I did some testing and found that something is rattling in the drivers side door which rattles at 110-130Hz. Its probably Benjamin Franklin's glasses or something else mysterious.
I also found that the door trim will vibrate a small amount at 50Hz once cranked up so I will add some electrical tape or blue tack to the mounting positions for the door trim to quieten that up.
So once I've found what is rattling inside there and fixed that I'll move on and buy myself a miniDSP HD 2x4 and calibration mic or analog 7 band equalizer. Haven't decided yet on that.
I also did a pink noise measurement and got these results, not that great but considering the speakers are a soft dome tweeter it isn't too bad, that is why I got these Pioneer TS-D1602R's because I wanted midrange to come from the bottom of the door, and to have tweeters somewhere around underneath where the dash is but mount them in a way that they will point towards my head but not get in the way of my huge assed legs and make my ears bleed and bass from the rear of the car:
I used a free app called Advanced Spectrum Analyzer PRO on my android phone for this graph.
I also found that the door trim will vibrate a small amount at 50Hz once cranked up so I will add some electrical tape or blue tack to the mounting positions for the door trim to quieten that up.
So once I've found what is rattling inside there and fixed that I'll move on and buy myself a miniDSP HD 2x4 and calibration mic or analog 7 band equalizer. Haven't decided yet on that.
I also did a pink noise measurement and got these results, not that great but considering the speakers are a soft dome tweeter it isn't too bad, that is why I got these Pioneer TS-D1602R's because I wanted midrange to come from the bottom of the door, and to have tweeters somewhere around underneath where the dash is but mount them in a way that they will point towards my head but not get in the way of my huge assed legs and make my ears bleed and bass from the rear of the car:
I used a free app called Advanced Spectrum Analyzer PRO on my android phone for this graph.
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I think that you'll find that toyota (or who ever actually makes the drivers) makes some good drivers and its the basket and the door frame which is causing distortion. Properly sealed and in good usable condition no speaker should distort especially a paper cone.
I'm considering removing my pioneer speaker and reinstalling the original toyota speakers but adding silicone around the plastic basket and adding sound dampening material.
Mainly because I cannot find paper coned drivers in the exact same size and depth that I need. The only drivers that I can find which are cheap and use paper cones are the original toyota speakers.
The original reason for buying the Pioneer TS-D1602R's in the first place was because I needed a driver with a high RMS rating and something to replace the original speakers with because the old ones "might" be getting too old due to age. but mine are still in good condition. I'm somewhat disappointed in the response around 1.5kHz of these plastic cones. It doesn't sound anywhere near as natural as the paper cone does that is still installed in the passengers side.
I've looked at replacing them with a vifa or seas but they are too deep and conflict with the windscreen.
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I actually found a novel solution. Spray on putty in a can. A lot less messier and cheaper than grease.
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I am actually adequately satisfied with the stereo in my Hyundai ioniq ev. Do not understand why the reviewers thought it was overrated, it is a relatively cheap car, so can not expect high end stuff happ'nin. Think they must have tried just the dab radio, or perhaps overly compressed music.
It does not have the lowest of lows in bass, but it is quite good, top end is better with slight downward slope on that horrible dab radio, but I blame the broadcasting network, it was good on fm, but the channels I like are stricktly dab now......
Can pretend I'm a young'un with aftermarket kit should the urge to do so come out.
It does not have the lowest of lows in bass, but it is quite good, top end is better with slight downward slope on that horrible dab radio, but I blame the broadcasting network, it was good on fm, but the channels I like are stricktly dab now......
Can pretend I'm a young'un with aftermarket kit should the urge to do so come out.
The only manufacturer out there that I could find which still makes a paper cone woofer for a car was soundstorm: SLQ365 - Sound Storm Labs
And their 162.5 watt RMS ratings are dubious to say the least. But it might be worthwhile looking into.
And their 162.5 watt RMS ratings are dubious to say the least. But it might be worthwhile looking into.
Good to hear.
I think the point I was making earlier was that aftermarket car audio manufacturers have made an industry promoting cheaply made and shoddy polypropylene cones which are really only a lower quality replacement for the factory speakers but should never be considered as an upgrade in sound quality by any stretch of the imagination.
Because you are replacing a paper cone with a polypropylene cone which is heavier and won't be able to move any faster than a paper cone AND this means that you will lose all definition in the audio frequencies. You won't be able to hear the subtle changes in the music anymore. Sure you will gain higher frequency response and power output because in the case of a 2 or 3 way they've tacked a tweeter onto it, but that is all that you will gain. So they are peddling a fake upgrade on the basis of replacing "that horrid poorly mounted unsealed paper cone" with a "new high performance exotic-sounding buzz-word marketed polypropylene dual aramid fiber butyl" cone.
And the worst part is that they continue this charade by pushing DSP processing onto us like we need it. Just because you can position the soundstage doesn't mean that the DSP located in the head unit is going to give you a good quality audio signal in the first place. I've been horrified in Pioneer's implementation of a DSP on their head units and I gave one away recently yet these head units are sold and then hooked up to an external aftermarket DSP as if they have a good enough signal in the first place, none of them do. It will lack definition and depth and the finer details of that high quality audio file will be blown out the window.
You can spend $5,000 on a DSP-laden car audio system with polypropylene cones or you can actually do it properly and cut out the dsp, save some money, keep paper cones in the car, and use Class-AB amplifiers instead with proper speakers and tweeters placed in the correct positions for time correction. If I were recommending a new car owner to upgrade their car audio system I would have to recommend only replacing the factory amplifier, if its one of those horrid in-dash head unit types, if the amplifier however is a factory component one and is located in the boot then leave it well enough alone. And if you need to replace the speakers then hunt down some paper cone drivers like I am.
I can get a soundstage on the dash by simply positioning the speakers correctly and playing back a metal cassette tape and I've done so. All with just the stock 6.5" paper speakers in the front doors and the two 6x9 speakers on the rear parcel shelf and soft dome tweeters in the door handles. All factory equipment on my car.
The whole market is a horrible mess.
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Yes, well, polypropylene has some other qualities that make them good for cars, like water resistance. I do not ever want to bathe my paper cone units. Not sure if your climate is dry or wet. Get some random tear in the plastic covering managing the water flow inside the door, and things will happen.
There are 2 "FR" units with polyprop membrane that I personally think are worth their cost.
The Seas FU10RB, and the TangBand Ww5-1611SA(F).
That being said:
Paper cones ftw!
There are 2 "FR" units with polyprop membrane that I personally think are worth their cost.
The Seas FU10RB, and the TangBand Ww5-1611SA(F).
That being said:
Paper cones ftw!