If you increase the electronics compartiment by 25mm on each side you should have made the total length +50mm (950mm). Now you're taking away airspace from the woofers, if I'm understanding you correctly.
Can you show us your wiring? Sounds like your woofers might be out of phase. Check that every + connects to a + and - to -
Dear Lutkeveld,
thank you very much for your early reply. The wiring of the woofers and the piezos was right - no doubt there. Why no doubt? :-D
I forgot an important hint: We tested the boominator yesterday just "half glued" - that means that the boards which separate the electronical center of the boominator and the "speaker space" WERE ONLY PRESSED INTO THE BOOMINATOR by the help of several clamps - we did this to be able to work on the speakers as well as on the electronics in case of any failure.
So, you can imagine that we did the same with the top of the case. But with the clamps we were nearly able to to press the parts airtight together.
Are you have got some more tips for me? Did you watch the videos? At the :51 length clip you can hear the scratchy noise at the beginning of the song!
thank you very much for your early reply. The wiring of the woofers and the piezos was right - no doubt there. Why no doubt? :-D
I forgot an important hint: We tested the boominator yesterday just "half glued" - that means that the boards which separate the electronical center of the boominator and the "speaker space" WERE ONLY PRESSED INTO THE BOOMINATOR by the help of several clamps - we did this to be able to work on the speakers as well as on the electronics in case of any failure.
So, you can imagine that we did the same with the top of the case. But with the clamps we were nearly able to to press the parts airtight together.
Are you have got some more tips for me? Did you watch the videos? At the :51 length clip you can hear the scratchy noise at the beginning of the song!
Just post a pic of all the wiring (electronic compartiment plus speaker cabinets). I can't help you much just based off text.
Back again, this is my idea of a small PA speaker (well a high sensitivity hifi speaker that can be used as a PA sepaker) using the HP10w driver. I did some plots with winisd. A closed box isnt really very good as will only go down to 85hz -3db
Vented box gives a -3db point at 55hz with a 40l box and 50hz tuning.
Then I have tried a 30l vs a 40l box both tuned to 50hz. Thinking might go with 30l as not much difference in response. Is there any disadvantage of going with a smaller box? Any advantage of any other tuning freq? Will it sound the same other than 5hz difference in -3db point? Same power handling etc
Thinking of using an APT80 for the high end. Also is this really worth building, would I just be better buying a 2nd hand PA speaker?
Vented box gives a -3db point at 55hz with a 40l box and 50hz tuning.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Then I have tried a 30l vs a 40l box both tuned to 50hz. Thinking might go with 30l as not much difference in response. Is there any disadvantage of going with a smaller box? Any advantage of any other tuning freq? Will it sound the same other than 5hz difference in -3db point? Same power handling etc
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Thinking of using an APT80 for the high end. Also is this really worth building, would I just be better buying a 2nd hand PA speaker?
Still looking for a tweeter for my boominator hp10 build. Looks like one still in production is the pAudio PHT-407N. Expensive, but I can get them here in the states. Can anyone point me to the best crossover design? I have found at least 3.
TEH, you want the latest filter with the 1.5uF cap, the 4ohm resistor(can be varied from 2-5ohms by preference/music type but Saturnus said he liked 4ohm best) and the .33 mH inductor.
search the thread, the red/blue diagram with those parts is what you want for hp10w and pht 407n
search the thread, the red/blue diagram with those parts is what you want for hp10w and pht 407n
Thanks steveeboy. I found that diagram as well as a couple of others so I was wondering what the difference was. I guess when in doubt, go with the one Saturnus posted.
Do you know if the crossover design (vs the piezo design) reduces the max SPL?
Do you know if the crossover design (vs the piezo design) reduces the max SPL?
I believe from past discussion it does, but SQ is supposed to be superior, and everybody says "don't worry, it's loud enough."
haven't heard a single person complain that it isn't loud enough, and every person that does is told they have a wiring or other issue and once they fix it they all say "holy crap, it's LOUD!"
Figured, thanks.
BTW, I am looking for a imperial set of box measurements. I have found only external measurement which I can use to back into the internal measurements, but didn't want to spend the time and perhaps screw it up if somebody else already did them.
I got to a wood shop that sells Baltic and does excellent cutting, but they will only cut to imperial specifications.
BTW, I am looking for a imperial set of box measurements. I have found only external measurement which I can use to back into the internal measurements, but didn't want to spend the time and perhaps screw it up if somebody else already did them.
I got to a wood shop that sells Baltic and does excellent cutting, but they will only cut to imperial specifications.
I have built two minis and they are plenty loud. I want this one to be LOUD! Loud enough to dance to on the beach. I may use a headphone amp and split the signal and use the boominator in combination with the mini(s).
perhaps you can ask GMarsh? he is working on an imperially-dimensioned boominator right now. and he made some changes to the design that look to be quite helpful.
HERE: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/clas...b-ultimate-party-machine-632.html#post4709031
HERE: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/clas...b-ultimate-party-machine-632.html#post4709031
Yeah, that's where I got the external dimensions from. I'll send him a PM.
One other question. What is being used in the states to glue the woofers. Seems that chemical metal is a UK product only.
One other question. What is being used in the states to glue the woofers. Seems that chemical metal is a UK product only.
jb weld for the centers to the brace.
ge silicone II (must be II) to glue grills and speaker gasket to baffle
ge silicone II (must be II) to glue grills and speaker gasket to baffle
Current build is coming along. I'm painting the individual parts before I put the thing together, saves me from having to mask around the handles/ports. I'll have to do a bunch of touch-up when it's fully together, but that's easy.
So far I've got down 3 coats of a bright green latex outdoor paint I found in the mistint bin at the hardware store + 3 coats of oil based glossy urethane. I'm aiming for a hard/durable glossy finish like you'll find on an electric guitar body or something... and kinda wishing I just bought lacquer to begin with, would probably be less trouble.
Getting ready to spray on the logo now, lets see how many people recognize it.
I am off this coming week and willl be around gary. And dont paint the areas to be glued
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Awesome, thanks.
Tried my best to keep paint off the glued surfaces, I'll need to sand a bit but should be OK.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
Tried my best to keep paint off the glued surfaces, I'll need to sand a bit but should be OK.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk