Electrically, it makes no difference. Every electron that goes through the resistor also goes through the cap. (and through the tweeters) Personally, I'd put them both on the same side as it makes constructing the tweeter crossover a tiny bit easier.Hey, can you guys help me with the cross-over for the Paudio tweeters/HP10W woofers? I found two diagrams. The first shows the resistor on the positive and the cap on the negative. The second shows them both on the positive.
Hey Guys!
After our first festival with the built BOOMHILDE we want to say A HUUUUUGGGGEEEE THANK YOU!!!
You Guys helped us a lot and you were never mean to us despite some stupid questions. I will keep following this thread and I hope that i can give some small tips back to the community.
BEST REGARDS!
After our first festival with the built BOOMHILDE we want to say A HUUUUUGGGGEEEE THANK YOU!!!
You Guys helped us a lot and you were never mean to us despite some stupid questions. I will keep following this thread and I hope that i can give some small tips back to the community.
BEST REGARDS!
Thanks
I am doing imperial measurements so the end box will be 12" X 36". However, when I measure everything, my depth is over 12". See below.
Front Baffle .47" (12mm Baltic)
Woofer & Grill 5.375"
Brace .47
Woofer & Grill 5.375"
Back Baffle .47"
Total = 12.17"
Do people shave down the center brace so it fits??
I am doing imperial measurements so the end box will be 12" X 36". However, when I measure everything, my depth is over 12". See below.
Front Baffle .47" (12mm Baltic)
Woofer & Grill 5.375"
Brace .47
Woofer & Grill 5.375"
Back Baffle .47"
Total = 12.17"
Do people shave down the center brace so it fits??
I would use my router and take a skim cut of 1/16 if it were me. Remember there will be some extra thickness due to glue and you are going to require some are going to require some serious clamping to get that compression. When I did my glue ups they were done 1 baffle at a time. This means the center brace would be bowed for the second glue up. Just another point to consider.
You could also screw the driver to the front baffle to get the required compression. Just be mindful of the baffle thickness and screw length.
You could also screw the driver to the front baffle to get the required compression. Just be mindful of the baffle thickness and screw length.
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Thanks.
I was planning on screwing them down and that might help get most of what I need, but I can also skim them.
I am going to re-measure again tonight because when I do the metric conversion, I still come out a bit wide for the original metric spec.
I think I remember you from the mini thread. This will be my third adventure into boominator world.
I was planning on screwing them down and that might help get most of what I need, but I can also skim them.
I am going to re-measure again tonight because when I do the metric conversion, I still come out a bit wide for the original metric spec.
I think I remember you from the mini thread. This will be my third adventure into boominator world.
I remeasured last night without the rubber gasket and it added up to less than my anticipated width and enough room for the glue so I think I am ok. I'll do a final measurement once I have all the wood and skim if necessary.
I also put together the crossovers. Relatively easy compared to others I've done. Gave the raw drivers a listen. Sounded promising. Single woofertweeter combo not in a box pushing 87db off an iPhone. I was impressed by the detail in both the woofer and the tweeter.
I also put together the crossovers. Relatively easy compared to others I've done. Gave the raw drivers a listen. Sounded promising. Single woofertweeter combo not in a box pushing 87db off an iPhone. I was impressed by the detail in both the woofer and the tweeter.
Here is the completed xover. Love terminal strips. Only had one solder point on each. I may add a zip tie to the coil. I use industrial Velcro to secure the xovers and the battery in the compartment so they stay put.
Deffo use zip tie on the coil, I just used hot glue only and it came loose from the vibrations, was a pig trying to secure it again through the port handle....