Hey,
I have some question regarding batteries. I'm looking into alternatives to SLA batteries since "car batteries and similar" is banned on the festival grounds.
I was thinking that three of these and one of these would be a nice replacement.
That would leave me with about 15Ah, is that sufficent for a regular boominator for 4 days of festival?
The 3cell batteries linked have a voltage around 11.1v, is there any noticable diffrence comparingwith a 4cell 14.8v, using the maxamp20?
Anything else to consider? Except that they need a special charger.
Cheers
I have some question regarding batteries. I'm looking into alternatives to SLA batteries since "car batteries and similar" is banned on the festival grounds.
I was thinking that three of these and one of these would be a nice replacement.
That would leave me with about 15Ah, is that sufficent for a regular boominator for 4 days of festival?
The 3cell batteries linked have a voltage around 11.1v, is there any noticable diffrence comparingwith a 4cell 14.8v, using the maxamp20?
Anything else to consider? Except that they need a special charger.
Cheers
I got a 20AH 4S from hobbyking near the beginning of the year for £30 
. ill see how long it lasts.... i also got a basic protection board and batt monitor from china too . so i have idiot moment protection and time remaining countdown for when im too tired to do the manual calculations myself these are the sellers i bought from. the protection board seller was very helpful and is able to answer technical questions http://www.aliexpress.com/item/4S-2...d-bms-pcm-for-lithium-LicoO2/32388217872.html http://www.aliexpress.com/item/1pcs...LCD-display-instrument-TF01N/32232092752.html http://www.aliexpress.com/item/10-P...n-Wire-JST-XH-Connector-Plug/32224358302.html I also got some temp switch to go with the protection board, remove a resistor and solder to the pads for the temp switch. i guess you dont need to add it but i wanted it... http://www.aliexpress.com/item/5pcs...-Thermostat-Thermal-Protector/1956461297.html I have some spare temp switches that im very happy to sell for no profit you could make your own batt pack from high quality cells from http://eu.nkon.nl/rechargeable/18650-size they where recommended to me.
. ill see how long it lasts.... i also got a basic protection board and batt monitor from china too . so i have idiot moment protection and time remaining countdown for when im too tired to do the manual calculations myself these are the sellers i bought from. the protection board seller was very helpful and is able to answer technical questions http://www.aliexpress.com/item/4S-2...d-bms-pcm-for-lithium-LicoO2/32388217872.html http://www.aliexpress.com/item/1pcs...LCD-display-instrument-TF01N/32232092752.html http://www.aliexpress.com/item/10-P...n-Wire-JST-XH-Connector-Plug/32224358302.html I also got some temp switch to go with the protection board, remove a resistor and solder to the pads for the temp switch. i guess you dont need to add it but i wanted it... http://www.aliexpress.com/item/5pcs...-Thermostat-Thermal-Protector/1956461297.html I have some spare temp switches that im very happy to sell for no profit you could make your own batt pack from high quality cells from http://eu.nkon.nl/rechargeable/18650-size they where recommended to me.I got a 20AH 4S from hobbyking near the beginning of the year for £30
Do you use the maxamp20? It's only rated for 14v, does it handle 14.8v or should one convert down to 14?
Hey Guys!
Massive thank you for your hints and tips until now. Right now we are painting our boominator.
Like I wrote a few pages before: we changed the measurements a little bit. we cutted each board (the ones between the HP10s ; with the holes in it) for 2.5 cm to gain more space for the electronics. The other thing is that the second layer of wood in the grips (bass reflex) does not reach till the outer boards (SHOULD have no effect to the sound).
We have got the MaxAMP20 (with two capacitors each side, just as lutkeveld)
NOW, OUR MAIN PROBLEM IS THE MISSING (WEAK) BASS! Will the bass and the whole sound as well get better after some hours of playing music (to "brake" in the woofers)? Or are the missing 2.5 cm responsible for the missing bass (SOME BASS FREQUENCIES are not even played - they are not weak, they are simply not there). Our music source are modern mobile phones.
Best Regards
Massive thank you for your hints and tips until now. Right now we are painting our boominator.
Like I wrote a few pages before: we changed the measurements a little bit. we cutted each board (the ones between the HP10s ; with the holes in it) for 2.5 cm to gain more space for the electronics. The other thing is that the second layer of wood in the grips (bass reflex) does not reach till the outer boards (SHOULD have no effect to the sound).
We have got the MaxAMP20 (with two capacitors each side, just as lutkeveld)
NOW, OUR MAIN PROBLEM IS THE MISSING (WEAK) BASS! Will the bass and the whole sound as well get better after some hours of playing music (to "brake" in the woofers)? Or are the missing 2.5 cm responsible for the missing bass (SOME BASS FREQUENCIES are not even played - they are not weak, they are simply not there). Our music source are modern mobile phones.
Best Regards
looks like all the woofers are connected in phase.
the idea of the boominator is to have woofers on each side 180 deg out of phase.
you could keep the polarity of both woofers which are on the lower part of the pic as it is,
but change plus for minus on the top part.
....wow that is hard to describe in english, especially when i know i'm talking to fellow german and it could be easier...
the idea of the boominator is to have woofers on each side 180 deg out of phase.
you could keep the polarity of both woofers which are on the lower part of the pic as it is,
but change plus for minus on the top part.
....wow that is hard to describe in english, especially when i know i'm talking to fellow german and it could be easier...
Initial build plans has changed as my need has evolved. The band I am in recently lost our garage for practice. And with it amps, mics etc.
So now I am looking into building a boominator for two specific uses. With two separated class D amps. One amp will be turned off while the other is active.
[special=Usage A: As a regular boombox party style. With 18650 batteries, class D amp and the usual woofer/tweeters. With the regular caps passfilter.]%[/special]
[book=Usage B: A more high current class D amp, thinking maybe 2 x 100 watt? That also can deliver deeper base for a Bass guitar as well as mic, electric guitar and acoustic guitar. This PA amp will run off the wall outlet 240 V. Amp will be connected to a portable top box housing the mixer, and this amp will have to deal with the sound of the whole band in my flat until we can find the money to buy new hardware and rent a space for band practice.]%[/book]
I realize I will be asking a lot from the Boominator and that what I need kind of contradict each other. As the original BOX is tuned to a certain Hz avoiding the lowest tunes.
My thought is to counter this by tuning the boominator box for PA usage first and foremost. Using software to tune the vent ports etc. This way we will have the current from a larger amp running max 240v so that voltage will not cap the performance. Then when used with Amp A for regular boomboxing outside streaming spotify or whatever plug out the larger amp and run the 18650 fed amp. This lower current, lower voltage amp could use extra caps to block unwanted frequencies. Or maybe we could use foam or some sort of inlay in the vent/bass port to cap the lowest Hz tones? Also tuning the box itself for PA usage mainly means the size of the box(es) might end up being different then from the original Boominator. Can changing the bass port when swapping amps help us achieve decent sound quality and still play with reasonable high volume to be useful outdoors you think? Notice that for PA usage we will only use the Boominator in my flat, plugged to wall outlet 240v.
This is all in my head for now, as our garage was destroyed by flames last night. I have not done any calculations yet so asking for input if this is doable and possible? With the mixer we might need a preamp or something too, I don't know yet as I haven't got around yet to check for mixer, cables, mics etc. The only thing fully acoustic and unplugged in PA use will be the drums.
So now I am looking into building a boominator for two specific uses. With two separated class D amps. One amp will be turned off while the other is active.
[special=Usage A: As a regular boombox party style. With 18650 batteries, class D amp and the usual woofer/tweeters. With the regular caps passfilter.]%[/special]
[book=Usage B: A more high current class D amp, thinking maybe 2 x 100 watt? That also can deliver deeper base for a Bass guitar as well as mic, electric guitar and acoustic guitar. This PA amp will run off the wall outlet 240 V. Amp will be connected to a portable top box housing the mixer, and this amp will have to deal with the sound of the whole band in my flat until we can find the money to buy new hardware and rent a space for band practice.]%[/book]
I realize I will be asking a lot from the Boominator and that what I need kind of contradict each other. As the original BOX is tuned to a certain Hz avoiding the lowest tunes.
My thought is to counter this by tuning the boominator box for PA usage first and foremost. Using software to tune the vent ports etc. This way we will have the current from a larger amp running max 240v so that voltage will not cap the performance. Then when used with Amp A for regular boomboxing outside streaming spotify or whatever plug out the larger amp and run the 18650 fed amp. This lower current, lower voltage amp could use extra caps to block unwanted frequencies. Or maybe we could use foam or some sort of inlay in the vent/bass port to cap the lowest Hz tones? Also tuning the box itself for PA usage mainly means the size of the box(es) might end up being different then from the original Boominator. Can changing the bass port when swapping amps help us achieve decent sound quality and still play with reasonable high volume to be useful outdoors you think? Notice that for PA usage we will only use the Boominator in my flat, plugged to wall outlet 240v.
This is all in my head for now, as our garage was destroyed by flames last night. I have not done any calculations yet so asking for input if this is doable and possible? With the mixer we might need a preamp or something too, I don't know yet as I haven't got around yet to check for mixer, cables, mics etc. The only thing fully acoustic and unplugged in PA use will be the drums.
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If you can't see a wiring fault then connect the woofers progressively, that is, one woofer, play bass note, connect second woofer, play note, if there is more bass, they are in phase, if there is less, then polarity is wrong, then the other woofers.
Hi I'm making the boominator v1 and I accidentally purchased 0.55mh 17 awg inductor's instead on 0.56 inductor's. I'm wondering if this would have a impact on the sound quality? Any help would be much appreciated, cheers
Crossover:
Boominator MINI (development thread) - Speakerplans.com Forums - Page 4
Crossover:
Boominator MINI (development thread) - Speakerplans.com Forums - Page 4
Hey Guys!
horst303s tip to connect the woofers progressively is amazing. Unfortunately , a few days ago we glued the whole case together. Right now we are painting our boominator. We wanted to finish the device for the upcoming "rock am ring"-festival.
Is it possible that the MaxAMP20 is not able to play some bass frequencies?
horst303s tip to connect the woofers progressively is amazing. Unfortunately , a few days ago we glued the whole case together. Right now we are painting our boominator. We wanted to finish the device for the upcoming "rock am ring"-festival.
Is it possible that the MaxAMP20 is not able to play some bass frequencies?
Conceivable, very unlikely.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The pot in the max amp is not within the signal chain, it has a dedicated readout channel. When you have to turn it in the opposite than normal direction it is just wired the wrong way, but this doesn't affects audio quality. For the Chassis, i highly recommend to remove the masking tape from the backside at it affects audio performance (to some extend).