Currently I don't have any kind of filtering applied, it is as you see in the picture.
Today I sold my Sonus Faber Cremona speakers and Oppo BDP-83SE to my brother in law, so I plan to reinvest that money back into some new equipment.
Instead of investing more money in drivers I have decided to buy the updated Oppo BDP-105D with a few mods and a Parasound P7 pre amp. Since DAC (Oppo) and pre amp (Parasound) will be replaced I am going to take the DCN28 out of the system and replace it with just the active xover part of the unit (DCN24RPC), so only some of what you say will now apply.
I am probably heavily biased, But my first choice in midrange would be a 2 driver solution. Based on some really hard to get (and expensive)drivers.
Low mid:
JBL 2122H (10" driver, foam edge, paper cone, 3" under hung coil) 250-1000hz
I have a pair of these made up from a pair of Reconed LE111H frames.
High Mid
JBL 095Ti (3" Titanium Dome) 1000-4500hz
I have a number of the 095`s + some 093`s and a pair of the car audio variant, the T030.
The plan are to put together a large pair of 4 ways, consisting of:
JBL 2245H. 18" woofers
JBL 2122H 10" low mids
JBL 095Ti 3" high mids
JBL 046Ti 1" Tweeters
Mini DSP 10x10.
But I need to find a carpenter able to help out with the cabinets, as this is to much of an investment to be satisfied with some backyard cabinets.
Low mid:
JBL 2122H (10" driver, foam edge, paper cone, 3" under hung coil) 250-1000hz
I have a pair of these made up from a pair of Reconed LE111H frames.
High Mid
JBL 095Ti (3" Titanium Dome) 1000-4500hz
I have a number of the 095`s + some 093`s and a pair of the car audio variant, the T030.
The plan are to put together a large pair of 4 ways, consisting of:
JBL 2245H. 18" woofers
JBL 2122H 10" low mids
JBL 095Ti 3" high mids
JBL 046Ti 1" Tweeters
Mini DSP 10x10.
But I need to find a carpenter able to help out with the cabinets, as this is to much of an investment to be satisfied with some backyard cabinets.
Wait, so you're going to take the analogue output of the Oppo and feed it into the active crossover before feeding it into the Parasound preamp?
What you want is a digital input and digital output DSP unit. You want to feed the digital signal into the DSP, the DSP will then output a digital signal that would feed into the Oppo's D/A converters before feeding into the multichannel analogue Parasound preamp.
The DCN28 is a much better solution if you feed it a digital signal.
Get a 2" compression driver ( Tad 4001-or jbl 2441 converted to field coil ) on a large horn to cover 400 - 8,000hz.
Tweeter---Tad Et -703 or fostex t500amk2 to cover 8kkz to bat territory.
Bass-- front loaded horn is the best if you have the room or double Altec 515b's in a 12 Cu.ft. sealed box with a little eq ( optional ). Check out Inlow sound for some tips.
You could use simple 6db crossovers with out much of a problem. Plus you will have over 100db+ sensitivity. You could add a sub or two if needed. A system as described would destroy most mega buck " audiophile " speakers.
Tweeter---Tad Et -703 or fostex t500amk2 to cover 8kkz to bat territory.
Bass-- front loaded horn is the best if you have the room or double Altec 515b's in a 12 Cu.ft. sealed box with a little eq ( optional ). Check out Inlow sound for some tips.
You could use simple 6db crossovers with out much of a problem. Plus you will have over 100db+ sensitivity. You could add a sub or two if needed. A system as described would destroy most mega buck " audiophile " speakers.
For quite some time now I have been looking for a DSP with digital in and outs. I haven't had a great deal of success finding something worthy of the system I have, only cheap eBay items that half do what I want.
Funny you should say that about the analogue input on the DCN28, technically it should be inferior to a digital input because an analogue input has to be converted twice, once in the Oppo and again in the DCN28, but for some strange reason when using the Oppo BDP-83SE the analogue sounds better.
Recently I bought a Mede8er X3D 1000 and connected it via the digital input to the DCN28 and I couldn't audibly pick a difference between the analogue input of the Oppo and the digital of the Mede8er.
The analogue of the Mede8er doesn't sound as good as the digital, so it really seems to be horses for courses. So I am looking forward to next week when my new 105D turns up to see how it performs on both tests. The good thing about the 105D over the 83SE is I will be able to feed the DCN28 straight balanced XLR connection instead of using a RCA to XLR cable like I am with the 83SE.
I am having second thoughts about replacing the DCN28 as the sound is fairly decent now I really don't know how much more I am going to pick up for spending a whole lot more cash.
Well if it was me, I would most certainly want to use a digital signal into the DSP then have some sort of analogue attenuation after the D/A process. This is basically what the DCN28 would provide with a digital input.
Now the real magic imo would be if you could input a digital signal into the DCN28 and then have it output 8 channel digital audio via HDMI into the Oppo, then that performs D/A conversion before it sends the analogue audio into the Parasound.
Now the real magic imo would be if you could input a digital signal into the DCN28 and then have it output 8 channel digital audio via HDMI into the Oppo, then that performs D/A conversion before it sends the analogue audio into the Parasound.
How about this as a midrange
fidelitatem sound ???????????? Blog Archive MAOP?????????Alpair7v3MAOP”
alpair 7v3MAOP
or the 10 version
not sure what the cone treatment is but I like the idea of matching with the TL ceramic (aesthetically)
fidelitatem sound ???????????? Blog Archive MAOP?????????Alpair7v3MAOP”
alpair 7v3MAOP
or the 10 version
not sure what the cone treatment is but I like the idea of matching with the TL ceramic (aesthetically)
I am probably heavily biased, But my first choice in midrange would be a 2 driver solution. Based on some really hard to get (and expensive)drivers.
Low mid:
JBL 2122H (10" driver, foam edge, paper cone, 3" under hung coil) 250-1000hz
I have a pair of these made up from a pair of Reconed LE111H frames.
High Mid
JBL 095Ti (3" Titanium Dome) 1000-4500hz
I have a number of the 095`s + some 093`s and a pair of the car audio variant, the T030.
The plan are to put together a large pair of 4 ways, consisting of:
JBL 2245H. 18" woofers
JBL 2122H 10" low mids
JBL 095Ti 3" high mids
JBL 046Ti 1" Tweeters
Mini DSP 10x10.
But I need to find a carpenter able to help out with the cabinets, as this is to much of an investment to be satisfied with some backyard cabinets.
Short of using an eight inch wide band driver in a front loaded horn, I'd have to agree to split the mid-range, but I'd opt for crossing at around 750Hz.
Why? IMO a largish driver is needed to push enough air at the lower mids to sound realistic, but then cone beak-up causes problems in the upper range, so why not use a smaller devoted MID range driver for the upper mid-range, to complete a 4 way system. Again, IMO, 4 way systems are the best overall approach.
Same with a pair of QUAD electrostatics per side, but neither a large horn or double QUADS is practicle for everyone.
For high mid-bass ? > 750 hz
12" >80hz to 750hz : Sealed vs Open !
15 < 80 hz Sealed (Infinite load; QTC around 1? . Qts>0.3 ?)
New LB8EX II : http://www.emspeaker.com/ems_products.html : electro magnet speaker : life and easily adaptation of the Qts for the room !
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Cost no object you say? Well, I'd say a newer TAD compression driver (4003 and/or 2002), or even a GOTO or ALE driver. The problem with this, however, is that it would be odd, sonically and aethistically to use any of these because you have already choosen a woofer and tweeter. If the SEAS woofer can play to 500hz comfortably you use a big pro AMT from Mundorf (full disclosure: no personal experience with these drivers in particular but rather other AMT designs). In terms of a cone midrange, I'd say that an Accuton midrange will better mate to your SEAS woofer while something like a paper-coned Satori or Revelator will mate better to your tweeter. Visaton supposedly makes some good drivers for wordly prices (no personal experience, though). The ATC is good driver, however there was a shootout between it and the TAD 4003 and the ATC got demolished. No experience with the HE full rangers from Voxativ or Feastrex, Jon could probably help you out on the Voxativ driver as I believe he has a pair in his reference. Overall, I'd say from where you stand right now: the AE 6 in hers, Accuton C173 and the Scan Speak Revelatory, oh and the Satoris worth a listen. You really need to hear these drivers in the context of your system to understand where the theory and practical application intersect for the best sound.
M560D is a waste of money. You can do as well with D52AF. Only issue
is the audiophiles seem not to comprehend that. D54AF is also a worthy
unit, slightly more problematic to work with having a powerful motor.