LL1527XL question to hazard
hiya hazard,
any idea weather these trannies can be configured for balanced input to single ended output?
many thanks in advance
gray
hiya hazard,
any idea weather these trannies can be configured for balanced input to single ended output?
many thanks in advance
gray
I'm glad the PCBs arrived safely - over to you now....
To answer your question, yes, you should be able to use those transformers to convert from differential to single-ended. Here's a link to the Silk TVC connection options, which should be very similar (click through the images for the item);
Silk Audio 23 Step Supermalloy TVC (Pair)
Ray
Like Ray said - yes. The tx I bought has 33 positions. I don't need that many so I just use every 2nd tap. But otherwise, follow the wiring diagram for Silk tx.
Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
The worst problem from switching regulators is the high frequency noise pulses, they are often not reduced very much at all by linear regulators used after them as the pulses go straight through. A passive LC filter is the best thing to reduce the noise from a switching regulator, the linear ones will then do a much better job.
How do you get a differential signal from the flip flop, where does the phase get inverted?
The flip flop is like a digital phase splitter. It has 2 outputs - one follows the input, one is complementary to the input. ie if input is 1, output is 1 and 0. If input is 0, output is 0 and 1. The 74HC74 device I use is 2 flip flip in one chip. ie one for each channel.
I am an analogue guy and have very little (ie no) insight into digital design. This idea came from member Peufeu very early in the development of the no-DAC, back in post #69. This was the breakthrough point and everything fell into place quickly once he showed me the digital phase splitter. I love the collaborative efforts here on diyAudio.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-line-level/273474-best-dac-no-dac-7.html#post4316729
Regarding PCBs
For everyone who has paid me for PCBs, they are all now in the post.
The boards from this very last batch have been going steadily but I have a small number left if anyone is interested - once they're gone they're gone.
Ray
For everyone who has paid me for PCBs, they are all now in the post.
The boards from this very last batch have been going steadily but I have a small number left if anyone is interested - once they're gone they're gone.
Ray
Most probably not. Additionally, SMPSes have more Leakage Current. There are insidious injections of noise back into the mains as well. This can affect other audio gear in the chain too.
Yes, one source of Leakage Current removed if you do replace one SMPS by the battery. Worth a try.
http://www.diyinhk.com/shop/audio-k...50v-800ma.html#/voltage_output-3_3v_green_pcb
Not sure there's an exact equivalent. It looks like the AQvox design but goes further. I suppose you could reach something similar if you bought a few iFi products like the Gemini cable, the iSilencer and the iDefender and injected clean power with a Linear PSU. My DAC is an iFi iDSD Nano, and I like what they do, so you could try these.
I think you have to try and listen: the Power and Ground plane noises and Leakage Currents have insidious ways of working.
I tried just my Custom USB Cable with no AC Filter box, and had a big change in SQ. Added the AC Filter box (computer, TV, Blu-Ray player) and had another big one. Put back the normal USB cable, keeping the AC Filter box, then re-added the Custom Connector, big change again.
So, my conclusion is that the AC Filter box is dealing with some of the noisy SMPSes of the 3 gears connected to it (noise re-injected into mains), but the Custom USB Connection is additionally still filtering something and also reducing Leakage Current propagation. The Linear Regulated PSU plays a big part powering the DAC as well.
Also try: HQ Player on server computer, connected via Ethernet to a much smaller device (like a Beaglebone Black or something like that) running networkaudiodaemon (also from signalyst) and then connected to your DIYinHK board.
This way, you can up-convert everything to DSD512 from the main computer, send that through Ethernet (you get some isolation this way), and then the noise profile near the DAC is much smaller as well.
They arrived just in time for my week off[emoji16] many thanks Ray
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OK, im almost done reading this entire thread through and through, and i ordered 1 balanced and 1 SE boards. I have been using the JLsound board for about a year now as it is, so im set on that front.
But I have some questions already.. So here they are:
Has the DSD licence with the JLsound board been resolved?
I havent fully understood the 4k7 resistor on the JLsound board and native windows playback. Can someone please explain it a little more?
I plan to build the most basic format of this project possible as i dont have a need for balanced output of volume control. i will be using my NUC (I3) as a source with windows 10 and foobar. What accommodations should i do? upsample plugin? (All my music is PCM anyway…)
I use 2 separate power supplies i got from JLsound. One puts out 5.2 for the reclcoker and the other puts out 4.1 for the USB part. At this point, i'm not sure if i need to make any changes to my existing power supply. Will the NoDAC board just draw its power from the JLsound board? Would it be ok to keep the 5.1v and 4.1v voltages or do i need to adjust (some how..) both to 5v?
I don't have any need for balanced output, but i find the idea of a transformer coupled output very interesting.. Would it makes sense to use the Balanced version, but hook it up to a SE transformer? Or maybe use the SE board and use a transformer instead an output cap? I'm not sure how to approach this part… i might also consider a tube buffer \ unbalancer later on.
I think that’s it for now, and i hope it's not too much. I am quite an experienced DIY’er, but dont have any real electronics knowledge, i just know how to follow schematics, so please excuse me if some of my questions are trivial.
Oh, and here are a couple of pictures from my JLsound board build:
I will probably use the existing chassie for now, but i plan to make a new one in the future.
Thank you all for your time!
Tank out.
But I have some questions already.. So here they are:
Has the DSD licence with the JLsound board been resolved?
I havent fully understood the 4k7 resistor on the JLsound board and native windows playback. Can someone please explain it a little more?
I plan to build the most basic format of this project possible as i dont have a need for balanced output of volume control. i will be using my NUC (I3) as a source with windows 10 and foobar. What accommodations should i do? upsample plugin? (All my music is PCM anyway…)
I use 2 separate power supplies i got from JLsound. One puts out 5.2 for the reclcoker and the other puts out 4.1 for the USB part. At this point, i'm not sure if i need to make any changes to my existing power supply. Will the NoDAC board just draw its power from the JLsound board? Would it be ok to keep the 5.1v and 4.1v voltages or do i need to adjust (some how..) both to 5v?
I don't have any need for balanced output, but i find the idea of a transformer coupled output very interesting.. Would it makes sense to use the Balanced version, but hook it up to a SE transformer? Or maybe use the SE board and use a transformer instead an output cap? I'm not sure how to approach this part… i might also consider a tube buffer \ unbalancer later on.
I think that’s it for now, and i hope it's not too much. I am quite an experienced DIY’er, but dont have any real electronics knowledge, i just know how to follow schematics, so please excuse me if some of my questions are trivial.
Oh, and here are a couple of pictures from my JLsound board build:
I will probably use the existing chassie for now, but i plan to make a new one in the future.
Thank you all for your time!
Tank out.
Last edited:
I've only ever used the JLSounds with a Linux operating system. With the right Linux distro native DSD256, which I suggest you aim for, is easy. I've no experience of Foobar, I use HQPlayer to upsample my PCM rips to DSD.
Just plug the nodac board onto the JLSounds headers and connect your power supplies to the terminal blocks on the nodac board and everything will be powered. Your power supplies should be fine as the nodac is very little load.
The transformers aren't balanced or single-ended per se, it's just how you connect them up. Follow Hazard's approach but just connect one side of the secondary winding to ground for a SE output from the balanced nodac. You'll need to get a suitable transformer and consider the gain structure you need as well.
No, you would still need the DC blocking cap otherwise the DC offset will saturate the transformer core. If you use the SE nodac board and require a SE output stck with the cap and feed it into a buffer or preamp stage to achieve your required gain.
Ray
Thank you Ray!
My wife wont be too happy with the linux idea (its the living room computer after all, and she listens to music on the system as well) but i will still look into it.
As for the SE board.. The NoDAC will be connected to my tube preamp, so i guess the buffer stage will not be neccesay (?). I do have a pair of 1.5uF and another pair of 4.7 mundorf supreme caps that will be perfect to experiment with as ouput caps.
It seems I will start my NoDAC journey with the SE version and only later consider a transformer or tube output with the balanced board.
My wife wont be too happy with the linux idea (its the living room computer after all, and she listens to music on the system as well) but i will still look into it.
As for the SE board.. The NoDAC will be connected to my tube preamp, so i guess the buffer stage will not be neccesay (?). I do have a pair of 1.5uF and another pair of 4.7 mundorf supreme caps that will be perfect to experiment with as ouput caps.
It seems I will start my NoDAC journey with the SE version and only later consider a transformer or tube output with the balanced board.
You're welcome.
To get the best from the nodac approach I suggest you consider HQ Player. You can run it on a Windows platform and control it from a tablet/laptop with something like Roon or Muso so its easy to operate. Pass the output from the HQPlayer box over a network connection to a small low-power Linux box running HQPlayer's network audio player and plug the JLSounds into that - OK, more complex and it costs more but you get the best of everything.
Ray
Thats indeed something to concider later on. I will see how the single windows box setup works and take it step by step from there. I might add the HQplayer from the get go though.
Tank out.
HQPlayer will deliver superb sound quality (DSD and PCM) and has various digital filter options to experiment with but be aware that to upsample CD quality rips to DSD, especially 256 or 512, will require a powerful PC - you're average laptop will not cut it. HQPlayer's user interface is quite basic though, which is why I generally drive it via Muso.
BTW, will i be getting the "original" SE that mounts on the JLsound board, or the new seperate design? (if its possible, i would prefer the one that mounts on the JLsound board)
Hi Tank
I just woke up in Australia and have seen the conversation here. Everything Ray has said is spot on so I will add just one thing - a dual boot machine is a viable option if you want to play with Linux/ Ubuntu Studio. That way you can save on an extra network box, and your wife can still use the PC.
I have Win 10 and Ubuntu Studio 16.04 both installed. I am not a computer nerd at all, but I was able to achieve this with some help from the internet. There are plenty of guides including this one:
How To Install Ubuntu Linux Alongside Windows 10 (UEFI) « Everyday Linux User
I have HQPlayer Windows and Linux versions. The cost for a dual licence was about 100 Euro IIRC but its money well spent. IMHO it is much better than Foobar. But that is really irrelevant because Linux is much better for audio and I use it exclusively when listening to music. Windows requires custom drivers, and at one stage could only output DSD as DoP. I haven't used it lately so I'm not sure if that has been rectified. ALso, have you seen all those add on programs for Windows such as Fidelier and Audio Optimiser? People pay good money for a lot of unnecessary bloatware in Windows, then pay more good money to turn off the bloat ware because it has an adverse affect on audio. Just use Ubuntu Studio, it is designed to be low latency out of the box, and of course Linux has no bloatware to manage.
Longer term you may want to investigate another network box - both YashN and NautiBouy recommend this approach. It is no doubt the ultimate solution,
but a dual boot machine is a good half way house.
Oh, I saw that you ordered both balanced and SE boards. If you prefer to use a transformer to a coupling cap then use the balanced board. The balanced board feeds the tx, and you can then take the tx output as balanced or single end, so you get that flexibility if you use the balanced board.
Good luck with your build.
nautibuoy and hazard - thank you so much for all the attention. And again, i apologize for my somewhat trivial question, this i the first time i build (and not just "assembled") a digital audio related component.
Regarding the whole linux \ windows issue - I completely understand. I will read up on how to install Ubuntu \ linux for this use. Hazard - will ubuntu prove usefull for all HTPC functions (meaning video..) as well? if so, the move to ubuntu will be easier of course.
And now for another question - Which output transformers should i look into? as i mentioned before, i have no use for Volume control, so the TVC option is not relevant. What would be the charataristics of the need transformer? maybe a vintage option like the UTC A-20 would be possible?
Thanks again.
Tank out.
Regarding the whole linux \ windows issue - I completely understand. I will read up on how to install Ubuntu \ linux for this use. Hazard - will ubuntu prove usefull for all HTPC functions (meaning video..) as well? if so, the move to ubuntu will be easier of course.
And now for another question - Which output transformers should i look into? as i mentioned before, i have no use for Volume control, so the TVC option is not relevant. What would be the charataristics of the need transformer? maybe a vintage option like the UTC A-20 would be possible?
Thanks again.
Tank out.
Why not replicate what Hazard started out with before moving to TVCs; differential outputs from the flipflop into Lundahl 1527XL transformers?
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-line-level/273474-best-dac-no-dac-34.html#post4446944