Hi all,
Can someone point me to the explanation and the use of the subject cone correction?
Grts marcello
Can someone point me to the explanation and the use of the subject cone correction?
Grts marcello
The basic idea is that the cone is cone-shaped and not flat, so the part of the horn opposite the cone should be similarly shaped to provide a consistent tapered horn cross section across the part of the horn where the driver is mounted.Hi all,
Can someone point me to the explanation and the use of the subject cone correction?
Grts marcello
Finished off building my second cabinet and thought i should post the build log:
And managed to get a couple of gigs in with them but photo and video quality is not great from my phone. Sounded great though!
Last step is tuning, which i am slowly getting there with.
Hoping someone could help with limiter settings though. I'm using powersoft T series and have started with the recommended settings from the powersoft 'PowerSharing' spreadsheet which shows:
I actually have them a bit more conservatively but did remember reading somewhere on this thread the clip at 50hz should be more like 50v? Powersoft have frequency shaping in the RMS and clip limiters or you can add a dynamic EQ limiter in, but i am not sure how to set these up properly - anyone got experience with these?
Hoping someone could help with limiter settings though. I'm using powersoft T series and have started with the recommended settings from the powersoft 'PowerSharing' spreadsheet which shows:
I actually have them a bit more conservatively but did remember reading somewhere on this thread the clip at 50hz should be more like 50v? Powersoft have frequency shaping in the RMS and clip limiters or you can add a dynamic EQ limiter in, but i am not sure how to set these up properly - anyone got experience with these?
your limiters looks good, have you touched the drivers basket, magnets after a couple of hours of heavy pounding ?
maybe they are not even warm !
hey, do you have a CNC , or is your router expertise!!
those cuts looks CNC class
plus how do yo made the rebates and outside stuff so you can stack cabs and do not slip them
hey, where do you stock the grills!! they are super nice !!
your tops are coaxials ? Nicee!!!
maybe they are not even warm !
hey, do you have a CNC , or is your router expertise!!
those cuts looks CNC class
plus how do yo made the rebates and outside stuff so you can stack cabs and do not slip them
hey, where do you stock the grills!! they are super nice !!
your tops are coaxials ? Nicee!!!
The drivers were barely warm as I wasn't pushing them hard still had a fair bit of headroom to play with.
It was all CNC cut except the pockets for the pole mount and skids as there were internal rebates on the other side already. For these I had a CNC template to use with a hand router.
To stack I will make HDPE skids to go in thoe pockets, once I build a few more cabinets to actually stack.
Grills were custom made, in a place in Melbourne, not sure if they were laser or water cut, and then powder coated. I'm sure most metal cutting places could do this easily, just need to find one that's cheap.
Tops are B&C 12FCX64 coaxials. They keep up really well with a single TH18. We have some SynTrips too that a friend built, which keep up pretty good with 2 TH18s per side but do lack a bit on the midbass. But was thinking of ultimately making a pair of PM90s.
It was all CNC cut except the pockets for the pole mount and skids as there were internal rebates on the other side already. For these I had a CNC template to use with a hand router.
To stack I will make HDPE skids to go in thoe pockets, once I build a few more cabinets to actually stack.
Grills were custom made, in a place in Melbourne, not sure if they were laser or water cut, and then powder coated. I'm sure most metal cutting places could do this easily, just need to find one that's cheap.
Tops are B&C 12FCX64 coaxials. They keep up really well with a single TH18. We have some SynTrips too that a friend built, which keep up pretty good with 2 TH18s per side but do lack a bit on the midbass. But was thinking of ultimately making a pair of PM90s.
Awesome build !!!
No wonder , I thought ...how he can do that with a router ? Lol
Ohhh I heard pm90's are loud as fu!! Lol
No wonder , I thought ...how he can do that with a router ? Lol
Ohhh I heard pm90's are loud as fu!! Lol
The build quality and finish on these is really first class @Deman. 👏 The rabbets and insets do make for a much easier to assemble and stronger cabinet. Well done on mastering that (and everything else) in Fusion360! Just a shame I don't live in Melbourne anymore because your parties look like heaps of fun!It was all CNC cut except the pockets for the pole mount and skids as there were internal rebates
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Looking at putting a Lavoce SAF184.03 in one of these.
BI and MMD (read a post by @weltersys) suggesting heavier cone was more durable, but correct me if wrong) are higher than the original driver and the tuning works when simmed, gives a marginally higher SPL.
People rag on Lavoce for being cheap, but at trade rates the two drivers are within £10 of each other. (£220 Lavoce vs £230 for the 18 Sound).
My only fear is that despite being heavier and stronger the SAF184.03 paper cone might not hold up to the throat pressures, whereas the "fibreglass reinforced" cone of the 18 Sound might actually be what makes it work here.
Anyone any experience that might help?
BI and MMD (read a post by @weltersys) suggesting heavier cone was more durable, but correct me if wrong) are higher than the original driver and the tuning works when simmed, gives a marginally higher SPL.
People rag on Lavoce for being cheap, but at trade rates the two drivers are within £10 of each other. (£220 Lavoce vs £230 for the 18 Sound).
My only fear is that despite being heavier and stronger the SAF184.03 paper cone might not hold up to the throat pressures, whereas the "fibreglass reinforced" cone of the 18 Sound might actually be what makes it work here.
Anyone any experience that might help?
I suggest the 18sound , for the reinforced cone, it is only 10 money units difference,
If you are adventurous you can get the lavoce as guinea pig , but take in account that it can shred to pieces or survive , all depends how hard you push.
There is a guy in the HHQS forums that even some budget lavoces was not listed as the driver for some dual 18's type O paraflex cabs , he stuffed the cabinets with them , and the drivers survived 😉.
I guess he is not punishing them
If you are adventurous you can get the lavoce as guinea pig , but take in account that it can shred to pieces or survive , all depends how hard you push.
There is a guy in the HHQS forums that even some budget lavoces was not listed as the driver for some dual 18's type O paraflex cabs , he stuffed the cabinets with them , and the drivers survived 😉.
I guess he is not punishing them
Well..UK is close to EU, blue aran and thoman have great prices for BC and 18sound and all of the Italian drivers , one time I tried to get some from them and the shipping prices to USA kills the deal, so I got actually higher prices than buying from USA distributors , lucky people who live in EU, they can get great drivers more affordable !!
Sub to main time alignment...
Has anyone played around with different delays on your mains to align with your TH18s? I have heard and read somewhere about a 4ms delay on your mains is correct, but when i have played around trying to phase align i found no delay seemed ok with my mains and a small 0.7ms delay seemed to work with our SyntripPs.
would love to hear peoples experiences and what methods they used to measure this.
Has anyone played around with different delays on your mains to align with your TH18s? I have heard and read somewhere about a 4ms delay on your mains is correct, but when i have played around trying to phase align i found no delay seemed ok with my mains and a small 0.7ms delay seemed to work with our SyntripPs.
would love to hear peoples experiences and what methods they used to measure this.
Deman, I think you'd look for a dip in response right around the crossover point to see misalignment, but I don't know that I'd introduce delay given that the wavelength of sound at 100Hz is about 11 feet (with a period of 10ms). 4ms delay would be a lot given that it's about half a wavelength, i.e. would be out of phase.
Given that the back side of the driver is at the mouth of the TH-18 sub and the horn signal is out of phase in the couple useful octaves of a tapped horn, maybe try reversing the woofer polarity if 4ms shows no dip but flat shows a big dip?
Given that the back side of the driver is at the mouth of the TH-18 sub and the horn signal is out of phase in the couple useful octaves of a tapped horn, maybe try reversing the woofer polarity if 4ms shows no dip but flat shows a big dip?
Since the phase changes in a ported box by 90 degrees at it's Fb (Frequency of box tuning), it's alignment depends on the acoustic crossover frequency relative to it's Fb. If the ports were sealed on your SynTripP cabinets, the alignment delay would be different.Sub to main time alignment...
Has anyone played around with different delays on your mains to align with your TH18s? I have heard and read somewhere about a 4ms delay on your mains is correct, but when i have played around trying to phase align i found no delay seemed ok with my mains and a small 0.7ms delay seemed to work with our SyntripPs.
would love to hear peoples experiences and what methods they used to measure this.
Anyway, I'd suggest using Merlijn Van Veen's method for alignment:
https://www.merlijnvanveen.nl/en/st...gnment-the-foolproof-relative-absolute-method
Art
Hello
Im really new to to the pa sektion and want to build some subs for my rcf art945.
I want to build the lonely th18 from Victor https://www.lautsprecherforum.eu/viewtopic.php?t=9487
And to compare the xoc1 sub.
Just to know what sounds bitter to me because yeah im new and dont know wich sound will be the best for me
But i only have 2 of the bc ds 100 8 ohm and a lot of 15mm ply.
Anybody tryed to Use the ds100?
I never used hornresp so i dont know and also no computer is avaible at the moment..
Mabey somebody can tell me about that.
And really sorry about my bad english🙂
I hope the link is ok in the forum here..
Im really new to to the pa sektion and want to build some subs for my rcf art945.
I want to build the lonely th18 from Victor https://www.lautsprecherforum.eu/viewtopic.php?t=9487
And to compare the xoc1 sub.
Just to know what sounds bitter to me because yeah im new and dont know wich sound will be the best for me
But i only have 2 of the bc ds 100 8 ohm and a lot of 15mm ply.
Anybody tryed to Use the ds100?
I never used hornresp so i dont know and also no computer is avaible at the moment..
Mabey somebody can tell me about that.
And really sorry about my bad english🙂
I hope the link is ok in the forum here..
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