I just got my 4 samples of those tiny chips.
Just wonder how it sounds...
I appreciate the effort you all give to this, special BWRX
And the BOM is just what an newbie like me love!
Still i want to now if its worth it to build?
I sure do if it sounds good!
You are amazing all with this love to sound!
Solve
Just wonder how it sounds...
I appreciate the effort you all give to this, special BWRX
And the BOM is just what an newbie like me love!
Still i want to now if its worth it to build?
I sure do if it sounds good!
You are amazing all with this love to sound!
Solve
You're welcome Solve. There's a lot of good silicon out there but it's very hard to prototype when most of the stuff only comes in surface mount packages that really require a dedicated PCB layout to work well. It's the least I could do after all I've learned from you guys on these forums. Plus it's fun and it keeps me from doing worse things
I'm getting ready to order boards but I still don't know how many to get. I went back through the thread and saw that the following people have expressed some form of interest (and for some a number of boards):
BWRX 4
ericallan ?
SmellofPoo ?
GeWa 2
FastEddy ?
nando ?
Solve ?
thomaseliot 4
Don't forget that these are mono boards, so 2 would be needed to make a 2 channel amp.
BWRX 4
ericallan ?
SmellofPoo ?
GeWa 2
FastEddy ?
nando ?
Solve ?
thomaseliot 4
Don't forget that these are mono boards, so 2 would be needed to make a 2 channel amp.
Hi Brian,
Sign me in for 2 boards. I'm building at the momemnt a simmilar amp but it is based on TAS5100 which are not available any more. I need to replace the output stage and your amp seems to be a good choice. I have input stage on TAS5010. Do you think that it would be possible to connect my input stage with your output stage?
Regards,
Marek
Sign me in for 2 boards. I'm building at the momemnt a simmilar amp but it is based on TAS5100 which are not available any more. I need to replace the output stage and your amp seems to be a good choice. I have input stage on TAS5010. Do you think that it would be possible to connect my input stage with your output stage?
Regards,
Marek
Markus2006 said:
It certainly would be possible. You would need to jumper the left channel PWM signals to one board and the right channel PWM signals to another board for stereo operation. You would also need to connect the analog ground of each TAS5261 board to the analog ground of the TAS5010 board. I don't know how easy that would be, but you'd probably have to lift pins of the 5010 or find some accessible vias or component pads if you remove the 5100.
There are through hole jumpers for PWM and analog ground connections on the TAS5261 board so that'll be easy to connect to. I also added jumpers for the reset, otw, and sd pins but I don't think the 5010 is capable of directly connecting to those after a quick look through its pdf file.
dmigo said:
Absolutely. I'm up for shipping the boards anywhere in a padded envelope.
Here's the updated list:
BWRX 4
GeWa 2
thomaseliot 4
Solve 4
Markus2006 2
dmigo 4
Anthony2181 4
ericallan ?
SmellofPoo ?
FastEddy ?
nando ?
I'll send these questionable guys an email to see if they're interested before placing the order. At this quantity pricing per board will be 15-20USD with 2oz copper and single sided silk screen. Double sided silk screen adds another $5-10 or so to the cost but it's not difficult to look off a component placement diagram which I will supply anyway.
Brian,
It seems that I can have an offer for double sided silk screen much cheaper (about 10$ - if I order more than 20 boards). But I would need first to manufacture 1 board only and see the quality (I can send it to you for testing). It takes 10 days for such an order. Would it be possible that you send me the Gerber files and I will ask the company for final quotation? If you agree, I will send you my e-mail address.
Regards,
Marek
It seems that I can have an offer for double sided silk screen much cheaper (about 10$ - if I order more than 20 boards). But I would need first to manufacture 1 board only and see the quality (I can send it to you for testing). It takes 10 days for such an order. Would it be possible that you send me the Gerber files and I will ask the company for final quotation? If you agree, I will send you my e-mail address.
Regards,
Marek
Markus - that is very kind of you to offer but I'm going to stick with the manufacturer I normally use. I know they do quality work.
The $15-20 price per board I came up with factors in a little compensation for my time as well
Fernando - right now the price per board is in the $15-20 range. That's for a single sided silk screen, 2 oz copper, and green solder mask; they will be professionally done boards.
Shipping varies to location but it should definitely be under $10 to just about anywhere since they will go in a padded envelope. As I said earlier, I can also buy toroids and wire from CWS and ship them with boards if anyone is interested. The cost for those would be $3 per T106 MPP core and $1 for 2-3 feet of 16ga.
The $15-20 price per board I came up with factors in a little compensation for my time as well
Fernando - right now the price per board is in the $15-20 range. That's for a single sided silk screen, 2 oz copper, and green solder mask; they will be professionally done boards.
Shipping varies to location but it should definitely be under $10 to just about anywhere since they will go in a padded envelope. As I said earlier, I can also buy toroids and wire from CWS and ship them with boards if anyone is interested. The cost for those would be $3 per T106 MPP core and $1 for 2-3 feet of 16ga.
I'm working on figuring out a way to do that as easily as possible. If I can find what I'm looking for (a cheap, small plastic container with small compartments that will keep the little SMDs separated) then I will probably offer all the parts as well. If I can't find it then I'm not going to take the time to label all the little parts for everyone. That's something I don't want to spend time doing.
That still takes a lot of time because you have to cut the correct quantity from the tape strips and organize them all onto a layer of tape without getting it stuck on myself or anything else. Plus it's a pain to get the little parts out of without losing them. I did something similar with the D10.1 kits where I made a little tape label that I stuck to each strip of parts and it was time consuming.
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