Just wondering.....
If I'll use 2x2cm ply for the front baffle + 4-5cm suprabaffle, what about the "breathe" of the driver?
I'm planning to cut bigger holes at the inner baffles but 19cm is the max hole I can cut, as 19,5 is the inner width of the cab. The driver inner width is 14,5cm. Is this enough?
The suprabaffle will be 4-5 cm depth. I'll try to widen the inner hole with a rasp....
If I'll use 2x2cm ply for the front baffle + 4-5cm suprabaffle, what about the "breathe" of the driver?
I'm planning to cut bigger holes at the inner baffles but 19cm is the max hole I can cut, as 19,5 is the inner width of the cab. The driver inner width is 14,5cm. Is this enough?
The suprabaffle will be 4-5 cm depth. I'll try to widen the inner hole with a rasp....
Hi...
Here is a Picture of my Monacor-BIBs.
I still don't know how I will finish them, but they sound great!
Here is a Picture of my Monacor-BIBs.
I still don't know how I will finish them, but they sound great!
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
What is interior treatment on the Monocor?
I'm refining my BIB with a flush mounted FE127e.
Got some stuffing in the peak and at the base.
This refinement will also include a piece of felt behind the driver.
I also have a pennant installed (as spoken of in previous posts.)
I'm refining my BIB with a flush mounted FE127e.
Got some stuffing in the peak and at the base.
This refinement will also include a piece of felt behind the driver.
I also have a pennant installed (as spoken of in previous posts.)
A building note
Erf.
Never having taken an inside measure for the driver on the BIB
I didn't know precisely how shallow the taper is. Surface mounting just makes it.
One other member mentioned this but can't recall what was done.
The only solution I can fathom is remove the front baffle and grind
off that part of the angle that is too shallow on the internal panel.
I then can flop the front baffle on top of the internal and judge
where the removal is needed.
Probably in a half moon shape with the router will do the job.
This would not be a problem if the suprabaffle were used. It would certainly obviate a lot of extra work.
I now have a FrankenBIB to go with my FrankenHarvey.
Erf.
Never having taken an inside measure for the driver on the BIB
I didn't know precisely how shallow the taper is. Surface mounting just makes it.
One other member mentioned this but can't recall what was done.
The only solution I can fathom is remove the front baffle and grind
off that part of the angle that is too shallow on the internal panel.
I then can flop the front baffle on top of the internal and judge
where the removal is needed.
Probably in a half moon shape with the router will do the job.
This would not be a problem if the suprabaffle were used. It would certainly obviate a lot of extra work.
I now have a FrankenBIB to go with my FrankenHarvey.
Hi,
I just got to take some photos today of my iBIB-k project. It uses a Davis Acoustics widerange driver and a budget Vifa cloth dome tweeter to help out the highs.. I followed Dave's published plans (which I think is based on GM's bigger BIB dims). I figured out the K-slots with the help of a friend and put it on the sides instead of the back. Like 'giantstairs' below I used the truncated pyramid suprabaffle instead of an oval or round one.
I posted here since it's still a BIB, but the mods could move it to the separate iBIB-k thread if deemed more appropriate:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=95929
I just got to take some photos today of my iBIB-k project. It uses a Davis Acoustics widerange driver and a budget Vifa cloth dome tweeter to help out the highs.. I followed Dave's published plans (which I think is based on GM's bigger BIB dims). I figured out the K-slots with the help of a friend and put it on the sides instead of the back. Like 'giantstairs' below I used the truncated pyramid suprabaffle instead of an oval or round one.
I posted here since it's still a BIB, but the mods could move it to the separate iBIB-k thread if deemed more appropriate:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=95929
Attachments
There's still a stong topcoat smell fuming out so I had to wipe it down with some water+light detergent and wipde it dry, then apply lemon scented polish (it appears shiny in the photos but the finish is actually flat - which what I was after). I have to repeat the process to remove the strong smell that irratates the upper respiatory tract.
Attachments
Those look really nice. I especialy like the feet.
Was slotting out the sides an aural choice or asthetic one? I'm wondering if it sounds any different from the same design with a rear facing port.
Was slotting out the sides an aural choice or asthetic one? I'm wondering if it sounds any different from the same design with a rear facing port.
gurley123 said:
Thank you. Primary intention was aural, with side benfefit of aesthetic. I helped out my uncle jigsaw it (we dont have more sophisticated tools for that), very difficult with marine plywood. Then evened the flaws out with sandpaper etc. I decided to use the tractrix spreadsheet found in the Karlson webpage to get the slot dims... I haven't compared without the K-slots but the midbass and lower regsiters on acoustic instruments are well defined (easy to pick out). No 'delay' on bass or boominess.
GM said:
Thanks GM. They sound great within the driver's limits. I'm quite pleased to say the least at what these 5" highish Fs drivers are capable of w/in these enclosures. Bigger is better indeed - and your dims maximized its LF output quality without sacrificing the overall tonal balance. No shoutiness here. The driver rolls off sharply ~10k on axis so I just used a simple high pass for the helper tweeter using ~2.2uF.. The stuffing/lining cabs is somewhat critical. Too much and you kill the mids and hf and it becomes boomy one note, too little and things start to sound hollow. The main damping sheet I used at the top panel and directly behind the driver is the 3/4" acoustic foam from Parts Express. From midway going down the taper I just used dacron polyfill. I came up with distributing the dacron stuffing in different areas rather than putting too thick of a material in one place.
I say anyone who's contemplating to build an inverted BIB with the FE127E should try it. Just remember that these work best for corner loading or at least near wall placement (room gain). I think the suprabaffle really helps in the response, lack of beaming, and early boundary reflections, although I can't really confirm that 'cause I haven't tried it w/out the suprabaffle.
BIB drivers for sale in Aus?
Hi,
I've been reading the BIB thread and I just have to build a pair... I cant' help it. I've been infected with BIBs.
I can't decide what drivers to use and hope someone in Australia has a suitable pair for sale so I won't have to decide.
I'll use MDF with doubled up the front & back and chip board for the baffle. Power will be a NAD 3020 for now and a Super T-Amp later if that be an improvement.
I found these on eBay but I don't know if they'd be suitable. Can anyone advise?
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330224371152
Thanks,
Mack in Melbourne Aus.
Hi,
I've been reading the BIB thread and I just have to build a pair... I cant' help it. I've been infected with BIBs.
I can't decide what drivers to use and hope someone in Australia has a suitable pair for sale so I won't have to decide.
I'll use MDF with doubled up the front & back and chip board for the baffle. Power will be a NAD 3020 for now and a Super T-Amp later if that be an improvement.
I found these on eBay but I don't know if they'd be suitable. Can anyone advise?
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330224371152
Thanks,
Mack in Melbourne Aus.
BIB drivers
Hi Mack, I cant comment on the ebay drivers although they look like some sort of Fostex clone.
I completed a pair of Fostex 168es BIB's some months ago which I haven't posted about yet as I am waiting for some photos of them....I will though! Suffice to say that they perform very well. I purchased the drivers from Madisound in the US, they were delivered within a few days and were a similar price (about A$500 landed) to the local importer who were out of stock at the time. I think they are a good, versatile driver that could suit other full range designs as well.
Regards, Andrew
Hi Mack, I cant comment on the ebay drivers although they look like some sort of Fostex clone.
I completed a pair of Fostex 168es BIB's some months ago which I haven't posted about yet as I am waiting for some photos of them....I will though! Suffice to say that they perform very well. I purchased the drivers from Madisound in the US, they were delivered within a few days and were a similar price (about A$500 landed) to the local importer who were out of stock at the time. I think they are a good, versatile driver that could suit other full range designs as well.
Regards, Andrew
Hi Mack
I spotted those on ebay as well, but pretty exy for a clone of unknown performance characteristics, here is a link to a South Australian site with 166es for $100.00 each, probably better to go with a know product.
http://www.electricroom.com.au/product/Fostex/FE166E+Full+Range+6-Inch+8-Ohm+Speaker+Driver
Cheers
Zero One
I spotted those on ebay as well, but pretty exy for a clone of unknown performance characteristics, here is a link to a South Australian site with 166es for $100.00 each, probably better to go with a know product.
http://www.electricroom.com.au/product/Fostex/FE166E+Full+Range+6-Inch+8-Ohm+Speaker+Driver
Cheers
Zero One
BIB
Nice to see this thread back at the top, I've been wading through it and will be embarking on a bib for the Neofone later this week, I'll be ordering the MDF tomorrow. I already have the Neofone drivers I knocked up in the floorstander design shown on Brian Cherry's website. They sound great to me and I'm intrigued at how they'll be in a bib.
BrianD
Nice to see this thread back at the top, I've been wading through it and will be embarking on a bib for the Neofone later this week, I'll be ordering the MDF tomorrow. I already have the Neofone drivers I knocked up in the floorstander design shown on Brian Cherry's website. They sound great to me and I'm intrigued at how they'll be in a bib.
BrianD
Everything BIB should be in here. There's been some 'start-up' threads that should be brought together here for easier reference.
Anyone else notice we're about to crack the 4,000 post mark? Never expected that when I started the thread... 
ordered FE166ES
Thanks Zero One, I quickly ordered two FE166es before I thought too much about other speakers. As suggested, I'll bolt them face to face, out of phase and play radio white noise to break them in.
I found Godzila's spec.s on the FE166ES-R and entered these in to his wonderful BIB calculator and got the attached. Does it look correct?
I must say while reading the BIB thread I've enjoyed the comradely you guys show for one another and the complete lack of animosity.
Thanks Zero One, I quickly ordered two FE166es before I thought too much about other speakers. As suggested, I'll bolt them face to face, out of phase and play radio white noise to break them in.
I found Godzila's spec.s on the FE166ES-R and entered these in to his wonderful BIB calculator and got the attached. Does it look correct?
I must say while reading the BIB thread I've enjoyed the comradely you guys show for one another and the complete lack of animosity.
Attachments
Greets!
?? Why should there be any animosity?
Hmm, FWIW you used the FE166E published specs, not the special edition FE166ES-R, but that's fine since it's what you're buying. That said, since I did the design math I don't understand why the SS you used is so far off from mine, which assumes MJK's 342 m (13,464.54")/sec SoS:
L = 134.645"
Sm = 116.252"^2
zdriver = 29.218"
a-b-c = 6.411"
All things considered though, there's no good reason not to just use T.C.'s 'standard' height to get it a little closer to the ceiling/raise driver height:
L = 138"
Sm = 113.416"^2
zdriver = 30"
a-b-c = 6.332"
All that said, while those differences may not be audible in-room, there's the issue of either using a high output impedance amp and/or a BSC filter and/or tiny, resistive wiring which will raise Qts potentially enough to require increasing Sm/a-b-c that combined with your smaller calc'd size probably will be audible, especially down low where the driver needs all the acoustic protection the pipe can give it........
So, do you need to take any of these things into consideration or are you just going to drive it with an SS amp through relatively large gauge wire?
GM
?? Why should there be any animosity?
Hmm, FWIW you used the FE166E published specs, not the special edition FE166ES-R, but that's fine since it's what you're buying. That said, since I did the design math I don't understand why the SS you used is so far off from mine, which assumes MJK's 342 m (13,464.54")/sec SoS:
L = 134.645"
Sm = 116.252"^2
zdriver = 29.218"
a-b-c = 6.411"
All things considered though, there's no good reason not to just use T.C.'s 'standard' height to get it a little closer to the ceiling/raise driver height:
L = 138"
Sm = 113.416"^2
zdriver = 30"
a-b-c = 6.332"
All that said, while those differences may not be audible in-room, there's the issue of either using a high output impedance amp and/or a BSC filter and/or tiny, resistive wiring which will raise Qts potentially enough to require increasing Sm/a-b-c that combined with your smaller calc'd size probably will be audible, especially down low where the driver needs all the acoustic protection the pipe can give it........
So, do you need to take any of these things into consideration or are you just going to drive it with an SS amp through relatively large gauge wire?
GM