Hi,
Update:
After two weeks of reading (studying 🙂) this thread I finally decided which "budget" driver I am going to use in my first Tabaq build the Peerless 830987
Yesterday I received the drivers, filling etc so now it is time for the next step, ordering and sawing MDF
Kind regards
Harry
Update:
After two weeks of reading (studying 🙂) this thread I finally decided which "budget" driver I am going to use in my first Tabaq build the Peerless 830987
Yesterday I received the drivers, filling etc so now it is time for the next step, ordering and sawing MDF
Kind regards
Harry
Attachments
Mr Bjørn ,
I am trying to make a saw-plan for my cabinets but the information in your doc "Tabaq update" isn't correct!
According to the drawing "TABAQ Original" the front panel is 79,2 cm so the innerheight is 78 cm, but according to the table "TABAQ Geometry" the innerheight is 20,3 + 55,9 = 76,2?!
In the drawing by robskillz the inner en outer heights are all corresponding but it is based on a innerheight of 78 cm!
Could you clear this up?!
THNX
Harry
I am trying to make a saw-plan for my cabinets but the information in your doc "Tabaq update" isn't correct!
According to the drawing "TABAQ Original" the front panel is 79,2 cm so the innerheight is 78 cm, but according to the table "TABAQ Geometry" the innerheight is 20,3 + 55,9 = 76,2?!
In the drawing by robskillz the inner en outer heights are all corresponding but it is based on a innerheight of 78 cm!
Could you clear this up?!
THNX
Harry
Attachments
Hi Harry,
I'm afraid it will be a long time. Today I sawn material, but only for the OSB – for test of sound and quantity of wool. Final loudspeakers considering combination of wood and concrete (only estetic reasons). Then will be followed by attempts to casting (concrete must be quite a long time to mature) and bonding of concrete with the wood. If it will be going to lead by my wish, I will add here some pictures, but I´m afraid it will be a long time unfortunatelly.
Bye Pavel
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Hi Harry
You are right, let me take a look at this.
The internal length (opening not included) is 30 inch, and driver is 8 inch from the closed end.
Hi
Bjørn
You are right, let me take a look at this.
The internal length (opening not included) is 30 inch, and driver is 8 inch from the closed end.
Hi
Bjørn
Hi Mr Bjørn
I think your document "Tabaq update" (page 2) doesnt contains the "final" drawing by robskillz:
- Post #1364 ref R1
- Post #1369 ref R2
The ref R2 -drawing is based on 30 inch innerheight and the port of 9.7cm!
So this shoud be the correct and latest revision of a plan for a Tabaq with a 3 inch driver!
Correct?
Thanx
Harry
I think your document "Tabaq update" (page 2) doesnt contains the "final" drawing by robskillz:
- Post #1364 ref R1
- Post #1369 ref R2
The ref R2 -drawing is based on 30 inch innerheight and the port of 9.7cm!
So this shoud be the correct and latest revision of a plan for a Tabaq with a 3 inch driver!
Correct?
Thanx
Harry
TABAQ Drawing - the original
Hi Harry
Post 1369 is showing the correct port dimensions for a 3 inch build, so you are right.
The original, which I have enclosed, has a slightly longer port which is lowering the tuning a little compared to the sim. For 4 inch drivers this is not an issue.
In real life I am not sure there is a big difference. It was a shortcut I made to make the construction easier, and I lived happily for years with the 3 inch driver 😀
Hi
Bjørn
Hi Harry
Post 1369 is showing the correct port dimensions for a 3 inch build, so you are right.
The original, which I have enclosed, has a slightly longer port which is lowering the tuning a little compared to the sim. For 4 inch drivers this is not an issue.
In real life I am not sure there is a big difference. It was a shortcut I made to make the construction easier, and I lived happily for years with the 3 inch driver 😀
Hi
Bjørn
Attachments
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Bjorn, your design is amazing!
I am rather new to the speaker building scene. I have done a whack of research even before I attempted my first build. I actually stumbled across the TABAQ design while doing a website search. I am so glad that that happened! My first build was the 3” version, and I did the original BCS. The speakers sit about 400mm away from the wall. The sound is amazing and the sound stage is unbelievable! I have had nothing but astonished comments. I used the the TB W3-315E driver as it was on sale at Parts Express. I run my music for now through IQaudiO’s Pi-DAC+ and then a small T amp. But I am going to soon upgrade the amp to IQaudio’s Pi-AMP+. I use the MoOde app.
All very happy with the outcome.
But I had so much fun with the build, I really want to try a 4’ build. I have chosen the TB W4-1337SD as a possible candidate. But I question this as the QTS is lower than the W3 I used originally. The specs for the driver are as follows;
FS 70Hz
QMS 1.51
RE 6.8 ohms
QES 0.49
QTS 0.37
VAS 0.17ft3
CMS 1.05mm/N
BL 5.37 Tm
Mms 4.61g
Xmax 3mm
Sd 57cm2
Another couple of questions are; the stuffing can be lowered to 70g? And if I place the speaker the same distance from the wall should I use a BCS? I have no way of figuring this out software wise right now.
I am rather new to the speaker building scene. I have done a whack of research even before I attempted my first build. I actually stumbled across the TABAQ design while doing a website search. I am so glad that that happened! My first build was the 3” version, and I did the original BCS. The speakers sit about 400mm away from the wall. The sound is amazing and the sound stage is unbelievable! I have had nothing but astonished comments. I used the the TB W3-315E driver as it was on sale at Parts Express. I run my music for now through IQaudiO’s Pi-DAC+ and then a small T amp. But I am going to soon upgrade the amp to IQaudio’s Pi-AMP+. I use the MoOde app.
All very happy with the outcome.
But I had so much fun with the build, I really want to try a 4’ build. I have chosen the TB W4-1337SD as a possible candidate. But I question this as the QTS is lower than the W3 I used originally. The specs for the driver are as follows;
FS 70Hz
QMS 1.51
RE 6.8 ohms
QES 0.49
QTS 0.37
VAS 0.17ft3
CMS 1.05mm/N
BL 5.37 Tm
Mms 4.61g
Xmax 3mm
Sd 57cm2
Another couple of questions are; the stuffing can be lowered to 70g? And if I place the speaker the same distance from the wall should I use a BCS? I have no way of figuring this out software wise right now.
Attachments
Hi
The lower Qts by 4" works fine as there is a smaller gap between driver Fs and the tuning of the enclosure.
I would use the same BSC. But it is a matter of personale taste. Try it with and without.
In my next build I will use the filter and add a switch to short cut the filter. Thereby the filter can easily be turned on or off.
Bjørn
The lower Qts by 4" works fine as there is a smaller gap between driver Fs and the tuning of the enclosure.
I would use the same BSC. But it is a matter of personale taste. Try it with and without.
In my next build I will use the filter and add a switch to short cut the filter. Thereby the filter can easily be turned on or off.
Bjørn
Bjorn
Thanks for your reply. I like the idea of adding a switch.
One other question. I used the original design for the enclosure and only later found the revised version of changing driver placement and vent design. Should I move towards the new version for the 4"?
GC
Thanks for your reply. I like the idea of adding a switch.
One other question. I used the original design for the enclosure and only later found the revised version of changing driver placement and vent design. Should I move towards the new version for the 4"?
GC
Well that is great news. Did you use a BCS, and the original design? My 3" is pretty awesome sounding, but I hear the base is more prominent with a 4".
GC
GC
Earlier in this thread, xrk971 and others discussed using very inexpensive inductors sourced from China for BSC. I don't want to wait several weeks for delivery, so I have been trying to locate equivalent items stocked by Mouser. Would this be suitable for Micro Tabaqs, played at low to moderate volume using a TPA3116 amp: http://www.mouser.com/Search/Produc...GAEpiMZZMsg%2by3WlYCkU7UKoNve5TYswTmj/J2k9Gc= ? Also, am I going to be Ok using a 5 watt resistor?
I use old school copper with no kernel. 1.2 or 0.7 mm diameter depending on what I have available.
Resistor 5 or 10 w.
These component are not that expensive and are easy to get in Denmark.
If you are happy with the sound without the BSC then you don't need it 🙂
Hi
Bjørn
Resistor 5 or 10 w.
These component are not that expensive and are easy to get in Denmark.
If you are happy with the sound without the BSC then you don't need it 🙂
Hi
Bjørn
In my build I purchased everything for the BSC from Parts Express from the US. For the pair it cost roughly $16.
Pair of 3.9 ohm 5watt resistors $1.36 part #015-3.9
Pair of inductors Dayton Audio LW181 1.0mH 18 AWG Perfect Layer Inductor $14.50 part#257-826
These worked fine for me.
Pair of 3.9 ohm 5watt resistors $1.36 part #015-3.9
Pair of inductors Dayton Audio LW181 1.0mH 18 AWG Perfect Layer Inductor $14.50 part#257-826
These worked fine for me.
^^ ^
If the little ones go up in smoke or something, I'll try something like those.
Meanwhile, I've finished my standard sized Tabaqs with the four inch Parts Express Reference Series drivers. I'm listening to Dr. Lonnie Smith, Rise Up via Google Play Music to a Chromecast Audio to a Marantz 1090 integrated amp with the Loudness off and the bass slider of the graphic EQ just one click above flat, and I cannot believe how well these little speakers are handling the loooowwww, rumbling bass lines from the B3 organ's pedalboard. I guess I'm going to have to go back and read the scientific stuff about how these things work.
If the little ones go up in smoke or something, I'll try something like those.
Meanwhile, I've finished my standard sized Tabaqs with the four inch Parts Express Reference Series drivers. I'm listening to Dr. Lonnie Smith, Rise Up via Google Play Music to a Chromecast Audio to a Marantz 1090 integrated amp with the Loudness off and the bass slider of the graphic EQ just one click above flat, and I cannot believe how well these little speakers are handling the loooowwww, rumbling bass lines from the B3 organ's pedalboard. I guess I'm going to have to go back and read the scientific stuff about how these things work.
Tabaq Extended
Hi,
Last weeks busy with building the "Tabaq Extended" a redesign from the original Tabaq by Pavel (see post #1651).
Last night i did some listening tests and I am quitehappy with the result! The sound is fresh and clear and for my taste enough bass.
Question:
I have used de standard amount of stuffing 100gr, is that the "correct" amount when using a Peerless P830987?
So the next step will be sanding, painting, sanding,....
Regards
Harry
Hi,
Last weeks busy with building the "Tabaq Extended" a redesign from the original Tabaq by Pavel (see post #1651).
Last night i did some listening tests and I am quitehappy with the result! The sound is fresh and clear and for my taste enough bass.
Question:
I have used de standard amount of stuffing 100gr, is that the "correct" amount when using a Peerless P830987?
So the next step will be sanding, painting, sanding,....
Regards
Harry
Attachments
100 g is OK.
I use exactly the same driver.
At the moment my external BSC is connected but I will probably continue without. That will fit my old man ears 🙂
Hi
Bjørn
I use exactly the same driver.
At the moment my external BSC is connected but I will probably continue without. That will fit my old man ears 🙂
Hi
Bjørn
Tabaq Extended
Bjørn,
Thnx for your reply. Today I am going to fill the feet with sand and close and glue my cabinets.
Did you use the standard values for the BSC, coil 1mH and a resistor of 6.8 Ohm?
Maybe I will experiment with that later.
By the way, does somebody has a scheme on how to connect a BSC with a DPDT-switch?
Regards
Harry
Bjørn,
Thnx for your reply. Today I am going to fill the feet with sand and close and glue my cabinets.
Did you use the standard values for the BSC, coil 1mH and a resistor of 6.8 Ohm?
Maybe I will experiment with that later.
By the way, does somebody has a scheme on how to connect a BSC with a DPDT-switch?
Regards
Harry
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Hi
I know others have made a bottom and filled it with sand, which improved the sound. You you are on the right track.
For 4 Ohm speakers the resistor should med 3.9 ohm. For 8 Ohm drivers, the resistor should be 6.8 ohm or maybe closer to 8 ohm. I have not done any testing with 8 ohms speakers.
There is an opportunity for your own personal tuning when it comes to BSC.
Hi
Bjørn
I know others have made a bottom and filled it with sand, which improved the sound. You you are on the right track.
For 4 Ohm speakers the resistor should med 3.9 ohm. For 8 Ohm drivers, the resistor should be 6.8 ohm or maybe closer to 8 ohm. I have not done any testing with 8 ohms speakers.
There is an opportunity for your own personal tuning when it comes to BSC.
Hi
Bjørn