It's earlier in the thread, but here it is again. +2dB at 135Hz and -2dB at 1250. Lately I've been adding a +1.5dB bump at 5000 to give it some air. All Q of 1.
I am just curious why or what you meant when you said the TPA3116 was the worst sounding? Not as full of sound, bass not there? I just want to better understand as that is how one learns, and sees how maybe to improve.
I am always looking to improve the sound on my set of TABAQ. Now I have TB 315E and using the amp and DAC from IQaudio. The DAC uses Burr Brown and the Amp is using the TPA3116. Mine now, sound to my ear pretty darn good.
But will be building a pair with the TB 1052SD soon, as they sound like pretty awesome drivers.
When I did my amp mini shootout, I had them lined up and played one after the other, so I could compared easily.
The TPA3116 lacked presence in the bass, but the most obvious was the lack of staging, the lack of musicality ... It just sounded dull and flat without spatial cues compared to the other amps.
It's my beach amp now, where it doesn't really matter as it's just for background music
The TPA3116 lacked presence in the bass, but the most obvious was the lack of staging, the lack of musicality ... It just sounded dull and flat without spatial cues compared to the other amps.
It's my beach amp now, where it doesn't really matter as it's just for background music
Well thanks for the more detail. My amp has the TAS5756m chip, I have found that to get sound out of these you really need to feed them the volts. Mine I have a 19v power block, feeding the amp/dac/raspberrypi. Makes a world of difference in sound to the TABAQs. Now onto my 4" build.
I started my build on the TABAQ. The wood was slightly warped. I checked for warped but could not tell. One box did not have 90 degrees sides so I had to break the glued joint and, hopefully, can salvage the pieces of wood. I had a buy a bigger drill plus odds and ends to build the TABAQ.
We will see how the build goes.
We will see how the build goes.
Could someone sim a TABAQ for for the Alpair 7P, 4 inch driver.
Attached link to specs:
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/images/Alpair-7P-Gen1-specs.jpg
Attached link to specs:
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/images/Alpair-7P-Gen1-specs.jpg
My tabaq box is finished. It is not well made but hopefully non leaking. I sealed all the joints except the baffle with caulk. I now need to stain the plywood, put a protective coat sealant or two, and install driver and binding cup. It might be done by next week. I have been taking my time.
I checked with a flashlight to see if my TABAQ had air leaks. And it was leaking worse than a leaking sieve. So I spread caulking sealant all around the outside of the box. I had caulking sealant on the inside for the backs and sides. So, the red stain finish is no longer viable. It looks like the box will have to endure my poor painting skills on top of my poor carpentry skills. I will check again for leaks tomorrow after the caulking sealant has dried.
This has been an experience of my poor wood working skills.
This has been an experience of my poor wood working skills.
I've moved to using Polyurethane adhesive (foaming) from Titebond 2. In my case it was Soudal Pro 40P. Various similar products around.
It's not as strong as a good TB2 joint but if there's a gap or a crack, you haven't got a good TB2 joint anyway.
^
Thanks for the suggestion.
As long as my box does not fall apart in mid-use, I should be fine with the caulking sealant. No more light but I will check again tonight when it is dark with 2 or 3 flashlights. I will think about using foaming adhesive the next time, especially if the wood is a bit warped. My previous builds all had cnc cut flat packs and the tite bond 2 held up well. Because the wood was a bit warped and my joints were much less than perfect, I did the light test.
Thanks for the suggestion.
As long as my box does not fall apart in mid-use, I should be fine with the caulking sealant. No more light but I will check again tonight when it is dark with 2 or 3 flashlights. I will think about using foaming adhesive the next time, especially if the wood is a bit warped. My previous builds all had cnc cut flat packs and the tite bond 2 held up well. Because the wood was a bit warped and my joints were much less than perfect, I did the light test.
I built a pair out of Ikea cabinet door panels, pre-finished in two different bright colors. I was going to paint them, but before going through all the prep, I wanted to audition the speakers for awhile. I ended up doing a quick-n-dirty covering of them with a woodgrain pattern Con-tact paper (shelf liner). Up close it doesn't look great, but from across the (not brightly lit) room, it's not bad.
FWIW, some of the nicest looking finished speakers I was involved with were covered with higher end wallpaper/coverings and one pair was a marbleized painting that was so real looking she got a contract doing it to a storefront at a once prominent Mall nearby.
The reed, bamboo and similar wallcoverings are my fave since they go with everything and hide some pretty egregious woodworking.
GM
The reed, bamboo and similar wallcoverings are my fave since they go with everything and hide some pretty egregious woodworking.
GM
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