TABAQ TL for Tangband

As an update to the folded TABAQ's, I took a chance, removed the BSC entirely, and swapped out the Faitalpro's for Pluvia Seven PHD's. Sooo much better now. These are the paper drivers described as having rolled off highs aimed at the Japanese market. Just straight driver, not at all burned in yet, they sound very smooth, much more filled out, detailed without being sibilant. I'm still brand new to full range, but I'm very happy now. They still sound different than a discrete woofer and tweeter with crossover, but not bad, just different. The drivers are on sale at Madisound right now.
 
Thanks @oon_the_kid and @perceval. Do either of you have experience with the Peerless 830987 vs the SB10? I know Bjorn likes the Peerless and it’s on sale right now.
Yes, the Peerless are on sale at Madisound for an absolute bargain - thanks for the heads up. And Madisound seems to have stock. Don't hesitate for one second. Get them. They are made for Tabaqs. You will not be disappointed.
 
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As with everything in life, all is relative! :D

As a rule of thumb, a driver with Qts of 0.5 will probably work well in a TABAQ, but I've always done a sim just to see if something wonderful might arise.
This 4" coax is not perfect, but I think if one can factor in some room gain between 60 and 80Hz, it would be quite fun. Being a coax, it will benefit of the extra oomph in the bass from a 4", and the reach up high of a tweeter.

Kinda cool, but from experience, it is not always easy to merge de tweeter of a coax to its woofer. That one will need to be hands on tweaking.
 
Would like some advice please.
I have the Tang Band W5-1611SAF and GRS PT6825-8 8" Planar Mid/Tweeter.
Intend to build a TABAQ for the W5-1611SAF and separately mount the planar on top.
I have found what seems to be two TABAQ large enclosures with very different volumes... can someone please point me to the correct design for this driver?
Also would like help if anyone has experience or tools to design the a starting crossover for this, I would love somewhere to start.

Thanks for any support everyone!
-Ses
 
Ses, I'm sorry, but you have the wrong drivers for what you want to do.

First, The GRS is a dipole, made for open baffle designs. Unless you meant not "on top of the W5" but instead "on top of the enclosure". Then you will have great phase issues because the distance between the W5 and the GRS is too far. You will have great peaks and great nulls around your listening position.

Also, the W5-1611SAF does work in the TABAQ Large, but it is not stellar. I made a pair, and scrapped it. It does not reach lower than a smaller 3.5" driver made for the TABAQ, doesn't have more power to that 55Hz either, and it beams horribly, meaning that the tone will change greatly just by moving your head around your couch or chair. They went back in a box and I am not sure what I will do with them... they are just gathering dust right now.

Regarding the TABAQ sizing differences...
The original plans are better suited for 4" drivers, with their slightly longer vent.
The revised version is better suited for 3" drivers, having a slightly shorter vent.
The TABAQ Large is for 5" drivers.
And there's also a folded TABAQ, I believe better again with 4" drivers. Myself, I'm not a fan of folding a transmission line if I don't have to.

So, either you use the GRS, the W5 and add a big 15" woofer for low end to give a shot to open baffle designs, or get different drivers to do what you want to do. Stick to a good and proven 4" driver and you will be rewarded with very good sound with not much more money.

If you want to dabble with XOs, you will need a microphone ($100), REW (free/donation-ware), and XSim (free)

https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/xsim-free-crossover-designer.259865/
 
Ses, I'm sorry, but you have the wrong drivers for what you want to do.

First, The GRS is a dipole, made for open baffle designs. Unless you meant not "on top of the W5" but instead "on top of the enclosure". Then you will have great phase issues because the distance between the W5 and the GRS is too far. You will have great peaks and great nulls around your listening position.

Also, the W5-1611SAF does work in the TABAQ Large, but it is not stellar. I made a pair, and scrapped it. It does not reach lower than a smaller 3.5" driver made for the TABAQ, doesn't have more power to that 55Hz either, and it beams horribly, meaning that the tone will change greatly just by moving your head around your couch or chair. They went back in a box and I am not sure what I will do with them... they are just gathering dust right now.

Regarding the TABAQ sizing differences...
The original plans are better suited for 4" drivers, with their slightly longer vent.
The revised version is better suited for 3" drivers, having a slightly shorter vent.
The TABAQ Large is for 5" drivers.
And there's also a folded TABAQ, I believe better again with 4" drivers. Myself, I'm not a fan of folding a transmission line if I don't have to.

So, either you use the GRS, the W5 and add a big 15" woofer for low end to give a shot to open baffle designs, or get different drivers to do what you want to do. Stick to a good and proven 4" driver and you will be rewarded with very good sound with not much more money.

If you want to dabble with XOs, you will need a microphone ($100), REW (free/donation-ware), and XSim (free)

https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/xsim-free-crossover-designer.259865/
Thanks for the response. Disappointing to read! I did mean to put the GRS on top of the enclosure as external open baffle tweeter and not inside the cabinet. If I wanted to do a 4" TABAQ, what would the best driver and plan be for that? Also, then, I guess I am taking any open suggestions on plans for the W5-1611SAF
 
Have a look around the thread.
Plenty of drivers were good or great. Most of them needing either small or extensive corrections! :)
Peerless, Faital, TB, even some cheap Chinese ones weren't half bad.

Sorry, I am on another continent right now and I don't have access to my main computer.
But, browse around, you'll see the good and the not so good of each and decide what kind of sound you'd like to have.

About the W5... no clue. As a stand alone, it's pretty rubbish. Not so great at both end of the spectrum. Might work as a mid in a 3-way.