1) Sounds like a personal preference, I preferred more toe in ;^).
2) Your 800w estimate sounds correct.
Most correct CAD?
After reading through this thread for the last week I decided to try building a pair.
I started putting together a cad model based on all the infos in this thread but noticed that they dont really add up. E.g. the cone plugs that Jennygirl posted seem to not fit the sketchup posted earlier. I also took a look at the 3d printed version which is again slightly different. Also several messages hint at newer versions of cad files but they have never been published?
I am slightly lost and not really sure which versions to trust and dont really understand the differences between them, yet.
I would greatly appreciate if anyone could point me in the direction of the most correct cad model or pdf that exists to date
After reading through this thread for the last week I decided to try building a pair.
I started putting together a cad model based on all the infos in this thread but noticed that they dont really add up. E.g. the cone plugs that Jennygirl posted seem to not fit the sketchup posted earlier. I also took a look at the 3d printed version which is again slightly different. Also several messages hint at newer versions of cad files but they have never been published?
I am slightly lost and not really sure which versions to trust and dont really understand the differences between them, yet.
I would greatly appreciate if anyone could point me in the direction of the most correct cad model or pdf that exists to date
drivers
I am determined to make a set of these Syntrip-P speakers and am at the stage where I want to buy the components and start. My question is: will 10 CLA64 drivers work better than 10CL51? I am attracted to them because they are waterproof and higher power handling though I notice that they are rated down to 70 hz rather than 65 hz. Also, I am intending to build the keystone sub, Art has suggested 18 SW115 drivers, should I go for 4 or 8 ohm resistance? Finally, I am planning to get someone to create 3 d models of each piece to make it easier to work without CNC and I will post these here once this is done. Thanks for any help or input people!
I am determined to make a set of these Syntrip-P speakers and am at the stage where I want to buy the components and start. My question is: will 10 CLA64 drivers work better than 10CL51? I am attracted to them because they are waterproof and higher power handling though I notice that they are rated down to 70 hz rather than 65 hz. Also, I am intending to build the keystone sub, Art has suggested 18 SW115 drivers, should I go for 4 or 8 ohm resistance? Finally, I am planning to get someone to create 3 d models of each piece to make it easier to work without CNC and I will post these here once this is done. Thanks for any help or input people!
1) The B&C 10CLA64 higher power handling is "better", it's lesser Xmax/Xvar is worse, as is it's weight. The Fs being higher is probably a wash, given the SynTripP Fb is 81 Hz.
2)More cost effective amplifier options are available to deliver around 3000 watts peak into 4 ohms than 8 ohms, so I chose the B&C18SW115-4.
Art
Thanks for replying Art, rereading your message I see that you did put sw115-4! I am not an expert in measurements and understanding the data. However I want to make the best build possible and have very good help with construction. I guess I want someone to tell me which are the best drivers that I can get which will not compromise or require adaptation of the design. Am I right to assume that I should go for 10cl51? If I said that the stands that I’m planning will take the extra weight, would that change the recommendation? Thank you for engaging. Dm
Hey Art! Finally got to flex the system for a few people the other weekend. Everyone was blown away by the sound quality and design of your SynTripP's and Keystones! Lots of people commented that it was the best PA sound they have heard! We also "upgraded" our amp to a Morin K30. Quite a bit more powerful than the nx6000d we were using. Specs say 5000w per channel. AT any rate we pushed the keystones harder than ever before and they didn't miss a beat. In fact i swear they seem to dig deeper and sound fatter the more power we put in to them. Only problem we had was one of our cheapo $25 speaker poles began to rattle.....hehe My buddy is an electrical engineer and built a cool little heat sensor to monitor the subs temp and they never got more than 8 degrees C over baseline! Here's a quick video of the rig in action. We painted the horns white so we can projector map to them! Thanks again for sharing your designs and providing such valuable feedback in helping me complete the builds!
SynTripP's & Keystones - YouTube
Here's a quick video of my 2 SynTripP's and 4 Keystones from this past weekend. The lighting was less than optimal but you can kinda make out the rig. Not the best demo music but its what I got.
This venue was very narrow and long so we weren't able to get much distance between the two SynTripP's, but they still sounded awesome throughout the whole place. I got sooo many compliments on sound, in terms of both quality and stupid levels of bass. Amps for the tops were barely lighting the -20db light so I had a bit of headroom there. Probably had about 15db left on the subs. When we first loaded in, the magnets on the subs were HOT from being in a box truck in 90 degree heat all day. After a 10 minute sound check they cooled off considerably which hints at how well these cabinets cool the magnets. After they cooled off they stayed barely above ambient temperature throughout the 5 hours we played. Couldn't be happier with how this rig turned out and a huge thanks to Art for all of his efforts.
Here's a quick video of my 2 SynTripP's and 4 Keystones from this past weekend. The lighting was less than optimal but you can kinda make out the rig. Not the best demo music but its what I got.
This venue was very narrow and long so we weren't able to get much distance between the two SynTripP's, but they still sounded awesome throughout the whole place. I got sooo many compliments on sound, in terms of both quality and stupid levels of bass. Amps for the tops were barely lighting the -20db light so I had a bit of headroom there. Probably had about 15db left on the subs. When we first loaded in, the magnets on the subs were HOT from being in a box truck in 90 degree heat all day. After a 10 minute sound check they cooled off considerably which hints at how well these cabinets cool the magnets. After they cooled off they stayed barely above ambient temperature throughout the 5 hours we played. Couldn't be happier with how this rig turned out and a huge thanks to Art for all of his efforts.
Thank you Art for generously sharing your SynTripP design. I am currently working up plans for my build based on your notes, and I wanted to confirm that I am reading this section correctly.
It appears that the rear of the horn where it interfaces with the front of the throat adapter plate is 2.3125 inches wide. Am I understanding that correctly? I've highlighted the numbers I'm curious about with red arrows.
Thank you!
It appears that the rear of the horn where it interfaces with the front of the throat adapter plate is 2.3125 inches wide. Am I understanding that correctly? I've highlighted the numbers I'm curious about with red arrows.
Thank you!
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The build is now underway and we have really worked on ideas for the finish and look as well as doing our best to be faithful to the construction design. To this end we are planning to make our own poles for the syntrip p to sit on above the keystone. Can anybody with experience here suggest a height from the ground that they would ideally sit at? Many thanks, DM
Domz732,
At a minimum, the high cabinets should be above head height to avoid the front rows of listeners hearing being destroyed while blocking response to the audience behind them.
Get the cabinets as high as safely possible, point them down at the most distant ears.
Safety may require guy wires and a plinth ratchet strapped to the bass speaker/pole base.
Ideally, the height should be enough to reduce the inverse distance level drop front to back level variation, the 6 dB per doubling of distance compensated by the off axis response level drop. This requires more height for a longer distance covered.
Art
At a minimum, the high cabinets should be above head height to avoid the front rows of listeners hearing being destroyed while blocking response to the audience behind them.
Get the cabinets as high as safely possible, point them down at the most distant ears.
Safety may require guy wires and a plinth ratchet strapped to the bass speaker/pole base.
Ideally, the height should be enough to reduce the inverse distance level drop front to back level variation, the 6 dB per doubling of distance compensated by the off axis response level drop. This requires more height for a longer distance covered.
Art
A few work in progress shots from my SynTripP build. I'm using this project as an opportunity to to expand my Fusion360 skills, so I added a few dado joints and pilot holes to the design. Also started learning the arrangement tools for laying up multiple parts on a single panel for the CNC.
