Has anyone looked into using the SB Audience ROSSO-65CDN-T or ROSSO-75CDN-T with the SynTripPs?
I haven’t seen it mentioned in this thread, but the 65CDN-T seems like excellent value for money and has received quite a bit of praise online. It looks like the 3-inch diaphragm ROSSO-75CDN-T is a newly released model.
I would assume the 31.1 degree exit angle of the 65CDN-T would be a better fit vs 75CDN-T's 9.5 degrees, though the 75CDN-T offers slightly higher sensitivity in the lower frequencies.
I haven’t seen it mentioned in this thread, but the 65CDN-T seems like excellent value for money and has received quite a bit of praise online. It looks like the 3-inch diaphragm ROSSO-75CDN-T is a newly released model.
I would assume the 31.1 degree exit angle of the 65CDN-T would be a better fit vs 75CDN-T's 9.5 degrees, though the 75CDN-T offers slightly higher sensitivity in the lower frequencies.
They look nice. This one has more X-max: https://www.sbaudience.com/index.php/products/compression-drivers/rosso-65cd-t/
It should be capable of ~+3dB more clean output than the 2.5" (65mm) diaphragms.
I wouldn't make that assumption from looking at the upper frequency response of the drivers on the H280 horn.
Unless you have measured distortion of the drivers on the same horn, I wouldn't assume the 65CD-T heavier slab magnet with less flux density has more Xmax simply because it's magnetic gap is longer than the lighter, higher flux density neodymium 65CDN-T.
Considering the HF response of these three Rosso drivers, I'd guess they all have similar diaphragm to phase plug distance, Xlim no more than 0.8mm, Xmax in the 0.5mm range.
So useful ! Thanks mate, will report back once I crossing that bridge !
Final wiring time. Before I tape the connectors and seal the boxes please let me know if anything looks amiss. It looks like the wires float nicely and aren't contacting anything when the back is closed
Normally, a cabinet's corners are rounded, screw holes sealed, sanded, and painted before loading the drivers. Not having done that looks like "a miss" to me 😉 .
"Floating wires" and Wago connectors put stress on all the spade connectors during transport, and may rattle in use.
Test polarity of the drivers through each connector.
Cabinets look clean!
Thanks for the helpful response.
I've yet to sand, route corners, seal screw heads, prime, paint,.add corner guards and feet etc. I wanted to sound test before burying the screws so if I need to I can disassemble, but it turns out there's plenty of access from the back. Guess I'm just impatient.
Should the wires be secured to the cabinet then? It all feels pretty secure and the wires are well crimped and the NL4s hot glued. The speaker connections are very solid. If need be I can use longer wires and make it all beefier, or whatever's recommended. Does anyone have pics of a best practice wire up?
Thanks again, this project has been so educational and nourishing.
I've yet to sand, route corners, seal screw heads, prime, paint,.add corner guards and feet etc. I wanted to sound test before burying the screws so if I need to I can disassemble, but it turns out there's plenty of access from the back. Guess I'm just impatient.
Should the wires be secured to the cabinet then? It all feels pretty secure and the wires are well crimped and the NL4s hot glued. The speaker connections are very solid. If need be I can use longer wires and make it all beefier, or whatever's recommended. Does anyone have pics of a best practice wire up?
Thanks again, this project has been so educational and nourishing.
@octapotamus
If your working outside with these try wire tying the wires down. Any time I have had floating wires in the past they ended up buzzing. If you are using these inside hot glue is perfect.
If your working outside with these try wire tying the wires down. Any time I have had floating wires in the past they ended up buzzing. If you are using these inside hot glue is perfect.