Maybe this is better:
No difference in response though:
/Anton
-25dB falloff sounds like a lot more than what would happen in reality. At least with full range drivers the falloff from peak to 20k is typically -12dB to -15dB.
Agreed, can you spot any errors in my input? I chose a very small rear chamber as there is no value that I can find. Should I do the opposite?
/Anton
The chart shows the acoustical power response, not the pressure response.
To get an idea of the pressure response, replace the three segments by a single "equivalent" exponential segment and use the directivity tool to calculate the on-axis response. For the horn dimensions below, the pressure response falloff from peak to 20k is -13dB.
S1 = 11.34
S2 = 1026.00
L12 (Exp) = 20.30
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You can get flexible plywood, MDF or even a mixture of both for curved objects.
The minimum radius it can be bend to depends on the thickness so you might have to layer two or three.
http://www.lathamtimber.co.uk/upload/files/Flexible Panels - July 2011.pdf
It's a UK link but it surely must be available elsewhere.
The minimum radius it can be bend to depends on the thickness so you might have to layer two or three.
http://www.lathamtimber.co.uk/upload/files/Flexible Panels - July 2011.pdf
It's a UK link but it surely must be available elsewhere.
Spikes probanly a good idea or if the sorbothane half spheres are sticky enough you can use three to keep the speaker from walking itself off the shelf and "Crashhh!!!l" onto the floor. Two big 8in woofers in cross angle mount will have quite a bit reactive force motion. Spikes will transmit vibration to shelf though. Most pro studio monitors suggest vibration isolation of entire monitor to get better bass. This is opposed to many audiophiles who think rigidly locking box to floor or whatever via spikes is needed to get maximum bass.
The spikes are only for the looks, they serve no practical purpose except aiming the speaker towards the listening height. I would add some kind of rubber under the feet to keep the speaker from moving around.
I'm not planning on letting them do any work below 100 Hz though as they are standing on subwoofers.
/Anton
That's right - I forgot your console is a big sub. Did you actually build that or is it in plans stage at this point?
It's ~finished and in use. Only connected to an Anaview ALC0100 so far though (max 50 W/channel) so I'm not really sure how it sounds at high output levels. I'm building a 2x300 W amp using the L15D-PS at the moment and will post measurements in the build thread (here).
/Anton
I looked at the different renderings I've posted so far and came to the conclusion that I prefer the cleaner look of no spikes or legs. Maybe I'm worrying too much about aiming the speaker towards the head as the (slight) off-axis response for this type of speaker is particularly good.
This leaves two options in my head for the moment, either hide/countersink foam/rubber feet so that it looks like this (from earlier):
Or add low and wide feet, maybe something like these:
That have rubber on bottom. Could look like this:
/Anton
This leaves two options in my head for the moment, either hide/countersink foam/rubber feet so that it looks like this (from earlier):
Or add low and wide feet, maybe something like these:
That have rubber on bottom. Could look like this:
/Anton
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I like the countersunk metal feet with rubber pads option above. Very clean look. You could be clever and actually angle the front baffle and WG up 5 deg or so internally behind the grill cloth (as long as your drivers can still fit - but they can even be mounted offset but with ports centered on the axis of the WG. An optical illusion really - might be kind of cool.
I think those low and wide feet look perfectly good.
Saarinen style tulip stands on either side of your center console would be the cats meow.... If only I could figure out a way to make diy tulip stands...
Saarinen style tulip stands on either side of your center console would be the cats meow.... If only I could figure out a way to make diy tulip stands...
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Are you thinking something like this:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Found this Bose speaker when googling saarinen tulip stands:
You would think that I've seen that speaker before if you compare to my design 😱
I don't have enough room to fit the speakers on stands beside my console as the room is too narrow.
/Anton
Never seen those speakers before, sure do look nice though. 😛
Truth is the 901 on the tulip pedestal is imo still the most timeless design to date. I just don't make a point of saying it in public. (Not talking acoustics here)
Ok I understand you don't have room on either side. In that case I think the low wide feet are a good compromise. Or just flat. The situation is less than ideal so for the extra couple inches with the feet you can probably just go flat if you prefer that look.
XRK's idea of angling the horn is neat, but I think that will cause even more diffraction/reflection off the top panel.
Truth is the 901 on the tulip pedestal is imo still the most timeless design to date. I just don't make a point of saying it in public. (Not talking acoustics here)
Ok I understand you don't have room on either side. In that case I think the low wide feet are a good compromise. Or just flat. The situation is less than ideal so for the extra couple inches with the feet you can probably just go flat if you prefer that look.
XRK's idea of angling the horn is neat, but I think that will cause even more diffraction/reflection off the top panel.
Also I was going to say, what about a stand in the center of the speaker. One that is not very visible. A floating stand you could say. You may even give it a bit of an angle pointing up?