I'd say that either of those supplies would work fine. Mine is still working fine with the 16v thinkpad power supply.
As far as I know, a well designed traditional transformer / regulator with plenty of tank capacitance will generally provide a smoother supply than normal switch mode supplies. Switch mode supplies are however also cheaper, more efficient and smaller.
Having tried a normal regulated supply and a laptop supply, I can't hear any obvious difference. With around 5000uF of capacitance across the power supply output I can't hear any hiss coming through the speakers that is characteristic of SMPS noise. In contrast to my NOS-DAC that absolutely hates laptop supplies and makes plenty of hissing.
Good luck!
As far as I know, a well designed traditional transformer / regulator with plenty of tank capacitance will generally provide a smoother supply than normal switch mode supplies. Switch mode supplies are however also cheaper, more efficient and smaller.
Having tried a normal regulated supply and a laptop supply, I can't hear any obvious difference. With around 5000uF of capacitance across the power supply output I can't hear any hiss coming through the speakers that is characteristic of SMPS noise. In contrast to my NOS-DAC that absolutely hates laptop supplies and makes plenty of hissing.
Good luck!
That is great to hear there is no obvious difference. Will just have to add and measure caps to try to kill any ripple. I would imagine there is little, but if so, a bit of filtering should do the trick. Ussually a cap or two across the output will work, worst case, a couple in line to filter out any interference in the audio range. Must say, though, would like to utilize a smaller supply to free up real estate. Off to the scope and Digikey now!
Pushbutton or relay power switch
I am attempting to wire a power switch to my SureElectronics tripath board.
I naively purchased the following switch because I liked the low
profile nickel finish:
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-b...SHBUTTON,_FLAT_-_MOMENATRY,_N.O._.htmlprofile
Upon wiring and testing the switch today I quickly found the errors of my purchase. It is a Normally Open Pushbutton switch. In order keep the power “ON” I had manually hold the button in or amp would turn off.
Now I know what “Normally Open Pushbutton” means 🙂.
OK I am still smitten with this slick looking switch. I was wondering whether there is an alternative method of using this switch as basic power on/off switch for my amp. Could the switch some how be wired to trigger a relay that could open and close power circuit? If so what spec relay would I need?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I am attempting to wire a power switch to my SureElectronics tripath board.
I naively purchased the following switch because I liked the low
profile nickel finish:
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-b...SHBUTTON,_FLAT_-_MOMENATRY,_N.O._.htmlprofile
Upon wiring and testing the switch today I quickly found the errors of my purchase. It is a Normally Open Pushbutton switch. In order keep the power “ON” I had manually hold the button in or amp would turn off.
Now I know what “Normally Open Pushbutton” means 🙂.
OK I am still smitten with this slick looking switch. I was wondering whether there is an alternative method of using this switch as basic power on/off switch for my amp. Could the switch some how be wired to trigger a relay that could open and close power circuit? If so what spec relay would I need?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Look for "latching" switches next time and stay away from "momentary" ones.
Since you like the look of the previous switch, go for vandal resistant switches. All share the same looks more or less.
Some manufacturers you'll want to look at include Bulgin, APEM and Schurter.
Since you like the look of the previous switch, go for vandal resistant switches. All share the same looks more or less.
Some manufacturers you'll want to look at include Bulgin, APEM and Schurter.
Here is the Bulgin switch I went for, slightly expensive but good.
http://uk.farnell.com/1331997/electrical/product.us0?sku=BULGIN-MP0045-1E1BL012&_requestid=259919
http://uk.farnell.com/1331997/electrical/product.us0?sku=BULGIN-MP0045-1E1BL012&_requestid=259919
There is a way to use a momentary swith, but, it will turn out to more of a quest than a simple solution. The only issue immediately arising is, you will need to add either a relay, or relays. Then, you will have a bit more current draw on the system. Will try to get a schematic description together this evening.
On the flip side, the switch bongoman has chosen has a wow-factor!
On the flip side, the switch bongoman has chosen has a wow-factor!
Here is a start:
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Bill_Bowden/page9.htm
This could be utilized to create a soft-start circuit. But as said earlier, saddling the horses for a quest here.
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Bill_Bowden/page9.htm
This could be utilized to create a soft-start circuit. But as said earlier, saddling the horses for a quest here.
bongoman said:
bongoman, what enlcosures did you use? I'm trying to find some black split extrusions like that but either they are single piece and black or two piece and silver.
Matt
It's all just off the shelf Farnell (UK) stocked items. If you are refering to the silver thing, that's a latching button switch with a built in LED. The RED blob thing is just a standard LED with an anodized aluminium bezel.
Those heatsink boxes are pretty expensive, but really good quality. The anodized black finish is much better than anything you could achieve with paint. I'm sorry to say that they aren't split, it's just a tube with 2 ends! I mounted the Tripath board inside using some sticky footed nylon standoffs.
The chassis socket listed below matches the plug size of the Sure Electronics power lead perfectly.
Here is my shopping list for the box and assorted bits, go to http://www.farnell.co.uk and do a search for whatever item number.
662379 1 In Stock 1.76 KNOB BLACK 28MM; Colour:Black; Depth, ex 28H-2D-B. MULTICOMP
1244232 1 In Stock 19.83 BOX, HEATSINK BLACK 150X90X51; Length / 431612 HAMMOND
1173890 1 In Stock 2.49 POTENTIOMETER, D/GANG LIN 10K; Series:27 27 ESA 103 MMF 43NF TYCO ELECTRONICS
8045275 1 In Stock 1.37 TERMINAL POST, GOLD BLK BP2616 BLACK UNBRANDED
8045283 1 In Stock 1.37 TERMINAL POST, GOLD RED; Colour:Red; Con BP2616 RED UNBRANDED
5008517 1 In Stock 0.69 SOCKET, PHONO CHASSIS BLACK; Colour:Blac NYS367-0 NEUTRIK
5008529 1 In Stock 0.69 SOCKET, PHONO CHASSIS RED; Colour:Red NYS367-2 NEUTRIK
254976 1 In Stock 1.45 LED HOLDER; LED / lamp size:5mm/T1_3/4; A104800AAC ARCOLECTRIC SWITCHES
1216726 1 In Stock 0.54 SOCKET, CHASSIS LOW VOLTAGE 2.1MM; Lengt CN02178 UNBRANDED
147164 1 In Stock 3.61 SUPPORT PCB 1/4" PK25; Diameter, fixing LCBSB-4-01A UNBRANDED
1331997 1 In Stock 7.30 SWITCH, FLUSH LATCHING BLUE ILLUM.; Swit MP0045/1E1BL012 BULGIN
For you guys in the States, I'm sure that you will be able to source these items locally, or as a last resort Farnell can ship internationally I think.
Those heatsink boxes are pretty expensive, but really good quality. The anodized black finish is much better than anything you could achieve with paint. I'm sorry to say that they aren't split, it's just a tube with 2 ends! I mounted the Tripath board inside using some sticky footed nylon standoffs.
The chassis socket listed below matches the plug size of the Sure Electronics power lead perfectly.
Here is my shopping list for the box and assorted bits, go to http://www.farnell.co.uk and do a search for whatever item number.
662379 1 In Stock 1.76 KNOB BLACK 28MM; Colour:Black; Depth, ex 28H-2D-B. MULTICOMP
1244232 1 In Stock 19.83 BOX, HEATSINK BLACK 150X90X51; Length / 431612 HAMMOND
1173890 1 In Stock 2.49 POTENTIOMETER, D/GANG LIN 10K; Series:27 27 ESA 103 MMF 43NF TYCO ELECTRONICS
8045275 1 In Stock 1.37 TERMINAL POST, GOLD BLK BP2616 BLACK UNBRANDED
8045283 1 In Stock 1.37 TERMINAL POST, GOLD RED; Colour:Red; Con BP2616 RED UNBRANDED
5008517 1 In Stock 0.69 SOCKET, PHONO CHASSIS BLACK; Colour:Blac NYS367-0 NEUTRIK
5008529 1 In Stock 0.69 SOCKET, PHONO CHASSIS RED; Colour:Red NYS367-2 NEUTRIK
254976 1 In Stock 1.45 LED HOLDER; LED / lamp size:5mm/T1_3/4; A104800AAC ARCOLECTRIC SWITCHES
1216726 1 In Stock 0.54 SOCKET, CHASSIS LOW VOLTAGE 2.1MM; Lengt CN02178 UNBRANDED
147164 1 In Stock 3.61 SUPPORT PCB 1/4" PK25; Diameter, fixing LCBSB-4-01A UNBRANDED
1331997 1 In Stock 7.30 SWITCH, FLUSH LATCHING BLUE ILLUM.; Swit MP0045/1E1BL012 BULGIN
For you guys in the States, I'm sure that you will be able to source these items locally, or as a last resort Farnell can ship internationally I think.
bobgoman, audio1st, and others,
I have compiled a short, somewhat messy, spreadsheet of possible mods. These are from the beginning to now. Since my board is on the slow boat, I have no way to start experimenting. If you all are interested in looking over them they could be honed down to help all. These are just board level mods so far. Next will be add-ons like volume control, led, and so on. Let me know, or email me directly.
I have compiled a short, somewhat messy, spreadsheet of possible mods. These are from the beginning to now. Since my board is on the slow boat, I have no way to start experimenting. If you all are interested in looking over them they could be honed down to help all. These are just board level mods so far. Next will be add-ons like volume control, led, and so on. Let me know, or email me directly.
Does anyone else think that it would be a good idea to get together a wiki on these boards, listing all of the recommended improvements etc? And, does anyone know where is the best place to host it?
Board Received.. Help
So after only 4 days my board, Ver 1.2, arrived in NZ.
Cleaned the crud off the back & gave it a test run as shipped. It's NOT a "Charlize", yet..
Tested on CD 'player & AR TSW 210's & AR 18's, on a 12v 4 amp SMPS ex an ATM machine..
Powered down & checked DC offset , -195mV & -200mV.
Removed C3 & C24.
Checked again & noticed a slight improvement.
Question: should I remove R-3 & R-16 ??. I think I recall reading somewhere that the max recomended DC offset was 150mV.
So after only 4 days my board, Ver 1.2, arrived in NZ.
Cleaned the crud off the back & gave it a test run as shipped. It's NOT a "Charlize", yet..
Tested on CD 'player & AR TSW 210's & AR 18's, on a 12v 4 amp SMPS ex an ATM machine..
Powered down & checked DC offset , -195mV & -200mV.
Removed C3 & C24.
Checked again & noticed a slight improvement.
Question: should I remove R-3 & R-16 ??. I think I recall reading somewhere that the max recomended DC offset was 150mV.
bongoman said:
Well,
Count me in ot that one! Doing this a fun project since I have a few boring months in front of me.
Re: Board Received.. Help
Yeah you need to remove R3 and R16 to reduce the DC offset to about 50mV.. I also did removed R1, R2, R15 and R18 on my amp..🙂
ZL2BPS said:
Yeah you need to remove R3 and R16 to reduce the DC offset to about 50mV.. I also did removed R1, R2, R15 and R18 on my amp..🙂
I'm a bit low on available time at the moment, but I'd be glad to contribute whatever I can if someone wants to set up a wiki.
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