Sorry if i repeat my question, this amp is able to drive a 87 Db 6 ohm speaker?
Inviato dal mio SM-G900F utilizzando Tapatalk
Inviato dal mio SM-G900F utilizzando Tapatalk
Hi PPY,
Why are you using silmic instead of a nice foil cap. Of course you can use electrolytic caps like silmic or the 4v oscons.... But why not a good foil like mundorf or audyn true copper?
For pimping the 6 "big" electrolytics i like to prefer nichicon muse 50v. You can use a small capacitor on the board and add some bigger ones like muse 1.000uF/50V on the left and right side of the sure board.
Regards
Limbik5
Why are you using silmic instead of a nice foil cap. Of course you can use electrolytic caps like silmic or the 4v oscons.... But why not a good foil like mundorf or audyn true copper?
For pimping the 6 "big" electrolytics i like to prefer nichicon muse 50v. You can use a small capacitor on the board and add some bigger ones like muse 1.000uF/50V on the left and right side of the sure board.
Regards
Limbik5
🙂
2xMundorf 10ufx400V costs about 25$!😱
2xAudyn True Copper 10uf costs about 80$!😱
Amplifier - 60$
The installation of these capacitors is not reasonable. And I would really like to see how you can in a miniature amplifier to put these capacitors.
Especially for my taste with Slimc II sound better than film capacitors.
A series of Nichicon Muse in this case too, it is impossible to set a fundamentally! These capacitors must be LOW ESR.
P.S
limbik 5 http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/298796-sure-electronics-aa-ab32313-2x400-4.html#post4901169
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Hi!
I think you dont need to install it on the board! I need to take a closer look... But first idea was to use a dact style stepper... Let the big caps (all in stock) imho you only need 1uF -2.2uF outside in front of the rca ... Connect gnd of the dact with sure input gnd... Bypass c1/c2 with a bridge.
Regards
I think you dont need to install it on the board! I need to take a closer look... But first idea was to use a dact style stepper... Let the big caps (all in stock) imho you only need 1uF -2.2uF outside in front of the rca ... Connect gnd of the dact with sure input gnd... Bypass c1/c2 with a bridge.
Regards
Your opinion(s) please, for sound quality would this amp be an equal to or better than something like a vintage Yamaha CA2010 class A/B (yamaha Dual-Fet differential amplification, parallel p-p circuit and SEPP output) amplifier?
The amp would be for driving some old 3-way JBL L112 speakers (8ohm/89dB.
The amp would be for driving some old 3-way JBL L112 speakers (8ohm/89dB.
Hello! I just bought the 2x100w AA-AB32971, and it sounds great, except for one thing. It has some kind of static that is always on as long as the power is on? How can I fix this? I am running it from a meanwell Nes-200-24.
Has anyone added volume control to these boards? Using Sure made additions or other? Is there a way to add a remote control for the volume? It would be used just as the poster in the german diy thread used it, connected to a squeezebox touch, no preamp, driving JBL L112 speakers.
I am about to order the 32512 but before I ordered, I also asked the power rating of the 32313 to see their rating at 4&8 ohms speakers. Sure Elec. said the lower power rating for these amps are the same. For both boards, 36V 4Ohm 1% is 200W; at 36V 8Ohm 1% is 100W
Anybody thinks 32512 is still better over the 32313?
Anybody thinks 32512 is still better over the 32313?
Attachments
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I sold my Yamaha M-2, and now use a Sure Electronics tda7492, it simply sounds better. Way less powerful but better sound. In my other system I have JBL L65's and use the Sure Electronics AA-AB32313, it drives them in an epic way. Loud, clear and sweet.
Hi Canvas
are you able to tell us something about sound of AA-AB31321 monoblocks?
Which power supply do you use?
I would like to build two monoblocks, my power supply would be 2 x HLG-320H-48A from Meanwell.
Thanks, zook
Hi,
It's back-ordered for 4 weeks already. I am told they ran out of some key parts. The ETA is still unknown. BTW, they will be powered by a linear power supply (660VA per ch + lots of PEH169) from my current amp.
Sure Electronics AA-AB32313 2x400 high output DC offset
Hi all,
Hope this is not entirely off topic. I need some advice on how to fix the DC offset on my Sure Electronics AA-AB32313 board, which I purchased from Sure recently after reading the glowing comments of the OP.
After I got the board, however, I was quite disappointed to find that the left channel output has a huge DC offset. It is ~0.2V (200mV) with the power supply voltage at 19V (from a PC power brick). The offset changes with the power supply voltage, and gets smaller when the supply voltage goes up, but it is still sizable at ~90mV at 36V supply input (now from a Mean Well 36V switching power supply) and ~70mV at 39V input. In comparison, an LME49810 kit amp I built recently only has a 3mV offset.
Because of the high output offset, I did not spend much time playing with the Sure board. Based on a quick listening session of ~5 minutes, I did not feel that the Sure amp is noticeably superior in any particular aspect to the LME 49810 amp. Nevertheless, I still want to fix the offset problem and give the Sure amp another chance to prove itself.
Could some class D amp experts here provide some suggestions regarding where to look for the cause of this supply-voltage-dependent offset, and how it could be fixed? I'm hoping that it is as simple as replacing a resistor or two. If diagnosing and fixing the problem would require too much time and energy, I'll just throw the board into the "Future Projects" box (which for all intents and purposes is a trash bin), as I don't really need the amp.
Cheers,
Kurt
Hi all,
Hope this is not entirely off topic. I need some advice on how to fix the DC offset on my Sure Electronics AA-AB32313 board, which I purchased from Sure recently after reading the glowing comments of the OP.
After I got the board, however, I was quite disappointed to find that the left channel output has a huge DC offset. It is ~0.2V (200mV) with the power supply voltage at 19V (from a PC power brick). The offset changes with the power supply voltage, and gets smaller when the supply voltage goes up, but it is still sizable at ~90mV at 36V supply input (now from a Mean Well 36V switching power supply) and ~70mV at 39V input. In comparison, an LME49810 kit amp I built recently only has a 3mV offset.
Because of the high output offset, I did not spend much time playing with the Sure board. Based on a quick listening session of ~5 minutes, I did not feel that the Sure amp is noticeably superior in any particular aspect to the LME 49810 amp. Nevertheless, I still want to fix the offset problem and give the Sure amp another chance to prove itself.
Could some class D amp experts here provide some suggestions regarding where to look for the cause of this supply-voltage-dependent offset, and how it could be fixed? I'm hoping that it is as simple as replacing a resistor or two. If diagnosing and fixing the problem would require too much time and energy, I'll just throw the board into the "Future Projects" box (which for all intents and purposes is a trash bin), as I don't really need the amp.
Cheers,
Kurt
