Hi all,
Long time lurker here and very long time music lover.
I have the 100w version on its way from Sure (it just left customs in Brisbane).
To answer your question, here I use a passive preamp that I put together that includes a passive crossover that then feeds two amps.
I'm hoping the Sure amp will provide better mid and treble performance than the Linn Intek thats driving them now.
Several have said this amp is 'silent' at idle. When you say 'silent' what efficientcy speakers are people using?
I am considering this interesting amp, but have previously owned the sure 2 x 100w version which was had noisy background level on a 92db/1w speaker. My current horns are 110db/1w, so this matters.
Has anyone who can comment used these on horns?
Thanks.
I am considering this interesting amp, but have previously owned the sure 2 x 100w version which was had noisy background level on a 92db/1w speaker. My current horns are 110db/1w, so this matters.
Has anyone who can comment used these on horns?
Thanks.
2x400W rating for this amp is surely mostly for advertising reasons - unless you want to listen to music at 10% distortion with 3-ohm speakers, of course.
If you have 8-ohm speakers, the most power you get out of this amp at reasonable distortion levels should be about 2x100W, which means a 35V 300V transformer should be sufficient. Even a 250VA transformer may be OK for most practical purposes.
If you have 4-ohm speakers and you want to really push the amp to its limit (which you probably don't want to do unless you are either wearing ear plugs or setting up a PA system in a large venue), then 35V 450VA transformer should be sufficient.
I use this amp with 6-ohm speakers and a 48V 7.3A SMPS and I have no problems with the quality of sound. A properly designed SMPS that meets its specs should be a good fit for powering Class-D amplifiers...
If you have 8-ohm speakers, the most power you get out of this amp at reasonable distortion levels should be about 2x100W, which means a 35V 300V transformer should be sufficient. Even a 250VA transformer may be OK for most practical purposes.
If you have 4-ohm speakers and you want to really push the amp to its limit (which you probably don't want to do unless you are either wearing ear plugs or setting up a PA system in a large venue), then 35V 450VA transformer should be sufficient.
I use this amp with 6-ohm speakers and a 48V 7.3A SMPS and I have no problems with the quality of sound. A properly designed SMPS that meets its specs should be a good fit for powering Class-D amplifiers...
Thank you, Ravels.
While I do agree a properly designed SMPS may sound as good as a proper linear supply, none I heard did (then again, far for "properly designed" I believe), and in my case I would have to import one to try and most likely would be more expensive than a transformer. So I am staying old school on this one.
It's a 4 Ohm DIY speaker. No plans for abuse.
While I do agree a properly designed SMPS may sound as good as a proper linear supply, none I heard did (then again, far for "properly designed" I believe), and in my case I would have to import one to try and most likely would be more expensive than a transformer. So I am staying old school on this one.
It's a 4 Ohm DIY speaker. No plans for abuse.
After forcing the courier to let me pick up the amp rather than wait till next week (shortage of staff due to the time of year) I have run basic tests.
I chose a 27v 350w PSU, voltage was just about perfectly on 27, a good start.
The amp powered on and the 3 LEDs come on, then the red one went out. So I assumed all was OK with it.
The amp has simple screw down speaker wire attachments (which I knew before hand) so I hacked together some bare wire to banana plug leads.
This amp is driving my mid and treble speakers with a Emotiva UPA-200 driving the bass. The fan did not come on once in the hour long test tonight and the amp ran reasonably cool. At a guess perhaps 35 - 40 deg C. System volume was around 75dB at the listening position (5m from speakers).
Initial impressions on sound quality are mixed and not overly impressed but I don't have to work for another week yet so I plenty of time to tweak things and make a proper judgment on the sound that I can squeeze from it.
Do you want more information when I have spent some more time with it and performed some tweaks?
Just putting the stock board through it's paces in my system to get a handle on the sonic flavor of this chip. I have 101db horns and there is a slight hiss when one places their ear near the horn. Definitely can't be heard at the listening position. However, it might definitely be an issue with your ultra efficient horns. The quietest board I've used is the Sure TPA3110. I built an amp for a fellow audiophile that uses 110 db horns and he declared it quieter and better sounding multi-thousand dollars amps he owned. I would give that Sure 3110 at try with your 110db horns.
After purchasing the AB32971 100w amp from Sure I previously said "impressions on sound quality are mixed and not overly impressed", I was expecting a good audio sound stage and it was terrible. Fortunately it was a mistake on my part.
The speaker outs are labeled but I reversed one side by being to quick to bother reading. The order is "+ - + -" on my board not the usual "+ - - +". Easily fixed.
The other issue was the gain, the sound was overly bright but also easily fixed by adjusting the series resistance in the preamp.
The AB32971 easily bettered the Linn Intek and Naim Nait amps on sound quality which is a good start.
The Emotiva UPA-200 is also a Chinese build I am lead to believe however design would appear to be American.
The difference in sound quality between these two amps is obvious but each has its strengths.
Firstly I agree with cervelorider, there is a very small hiss from this amp but you really do have to put your ear up to the tweeter to hear it. My speakers have ribbon tweeters.
The fan will spin up on the AB32971 but the fan is very quiet, the fan on my SMPS is louder and that is buried by music easily.
The AB32971 is now used as the mid/treble amp after hours switching between that and bass. The crossover point is 400Hz (might lower that to 300Hz one day).
Sibilance and cymbals are are handled better than the UPA-00 although I cannot say it is as good as a tube amp (been too many years since I've owned one). Decay and echoes are excellent as is separation of voices and instruments. Mike Oldfield's Tubular Bells concert on DVD was enjoyable as was Stings "Live in Berlin".
After a couple of days playing music from Sherbet to Katzenjammer and a lot in between I find I like this little amp. It can stay
Now, do I get the 400w version to see if its better? My handbrake (wife) might not want me to spend more money
Fan noise
I was having fan noise (not electrical). I replaced the fan with a "Noiseblocker NB-BlackSilent Fan XR-1 60mm Ultra Silent Fan,1600rpm, 3 pin,11 dBA", purchased on Amazon. Works great, I can't hear any fan noise. Required longer screws, since the fan is thicker. 4-40 x 1.25 inch worked well.
I was having fan noise (not electrical). I replaced the fan with a "Noiseblocker NB-BlackSilent Fan XR-1 60mm Ultra Silent Fan,1600rpm, 3 pin,11 dBA", purchased on Amazon. Works great, I can't hear any fan noise. Required longer screws, since the fan is thicker. 4-40 x 1.25 inch worked well.
Good afternoon, tell nobody ordered here such power?
Class T Digital Amplifier Board Stereo 2x160W HIFI AMP VS TPA3116 TK2050 TDA8950 | eBay
https://world.taobao.com/item/43603633262.htm?spm=a312a.7700714.0.0.ivqqvw#detail
I want to try to buy a sample. Or tell me whether to buy it.
Class T Digital Amplifier Board Stereo 2x160W HIFI AMP VS TPA3116 TK2050 TDA8950 | eBay
https://world.taobao.com/item/43603633262.htm?spm=a312a.7700714.0.0.ivqqvw#detail
I want to try to buy a sample. Or tell me whether to buy it.
Do you use that as an passive pre/attenuator?
What was it about the sure electronics volume pot that you didn't like, what did it do "wrong"?
I just bought a AA-AB32313 amp board and I'm looking to use a passive vol pot like Alps blue or maybe sureelectronics, but after your comment regarding the poor quality of sureelectronics pot I'm not sure. Might just buy both since they aren't very expensive.
How much (€) was the digital volume control made by the Russian engineer?
/Pepe
Opinions please ...
My setup currently uses a 100w Sure T-Amp to drive mids and tweeters with passive crossover inside the speakers. This amp is not having difficulties at high volume at this time.
The bass is driven from another amp with a passive crossover inside a passive pre-amp.
As the power supply can supply 350w it should be able to supply a second amp.
My current idea is to get another Sure amp, bypass the speaker crossover, drive mids with one amp, tweeters with another amp and build a crossover for them into the pre-amp.
The mids lower crossover point currently is 400hz and is an 8ohm driver the ribbon tweeters are also 8omh.
My questions is whether I should purchase the same amp or not. Funds are a little tight so perhaps to appease the wife I should not get another power supply and 400w amp.
My setup currently uses a 100w Sure T-Amp to drive mids and tweeters with passive crossover inside the speakers. This amp is not having difficulties at high volume at this time.
The bass is driven from another amp with a passive crossover inside a passive pre-amp.
As the power supply can supply 350w it should be able to supply a second amp.
My current idea is to get another Sure amp, bypass the speaker crossover, drive mids with one amp, tweeters with another amp and build a crossover for them into the pre-amp.
The mids lower crossover point currently is 400hz and is an 8ohm driver the ribbon tweeters are also 8omh.
My questions is whether I should purchase the same amp or not. Funds are a little tight so perhaps to appease the wife I should not get another power supply and 400w amp.
Hey now that looks if it is the shure AA-AB32971, yes it has a very impressive base output.You can also buy a active adjustable 2 or 3 way crossover to feed your speakers. see 1YD ?????? ?????? ????? ???????? ????????? ????? ???????????? ????????????? ??????? ????????? ????? | eBay.
Cheers
2 X 100 Watt Class D Audio Amplifier Board (T-AMP Technology) Sure AA-AB32971 | eBay.
I am about to upgrade my active base amp to this unit.nteresting ... and cheap.
Worth grabbing one just to play with.
I have built the "super simple preamp" but I disliked the way it compressed the dynamics of the music. I did try numerous op-amps in it and running it at different voltages and power supplies. Thats why I went passive.
However if I don't try different things I wont learn right?
I finally ordered the AA-AB323512. I should receive it in few days. I am hoping I am getting the correct board (since there is a talk the 32512 orders turns out to be 32313, don't know which one is better) .
I am also thinking to buy the 36V Led Driver to use as PS. I wanted to ask a question about how to terminate these. Is there a certain way like the attached picture or can I just use typical male plug/connector as the AC Source/wall and the other end soldered to the board. Or can I just terminate with small DC plug/connector and just plug it to the DC jack that is already on the board?
Thanks!
. I am also thinking to buy the 36V Led Driver to use as PS. I wanted to ask a question about how to terminate these. Is there a certain way like the attached picture or can I just use typical male plug/connector as the AC Source/wall and the other end soldered to the board. Or can I just terminate with small DC plug/connector and just plug it to the DC jack that is already on the board?
Thanks!
Attachments
I finally ordered the AA-AB323512. I should receive it in few days. I am hoping I am getting the correct board (since there is a talk the 32512 orders turns out to be 32313, don't know which one is better)
I am also thinking to buy the 36V Led Driver to use as PS. I wanted to ask a question about how to terminate these. Is there a certain way like the attached picture or can I just use typical male plug/connector as the AC Source/wall and the other end soldered to the board. Or can I just terminate with small DC plug/connector and just plug it to the DC jack that is already on the board?
Thanks!
I received my board today. It turns out they sent me a 32313 instead of the 32312 that I ordered.
Will contact them to get a refund for the price difference between the boards.
Looking forward to hear what board you get. Seems like it's a lottery.
Tomorrow comes the Mean Well HLG320H-36A I ordered from another supplier. Hopefully I'll find the time to try them next weekend together with a pre amp from Emblas Audio.