Spooky and Hellraiser SMD 60W amps (Wolverine compatible IPS)

The op-amp pinouts look like its for a dual op-amp, but the spooky ltspice schematic shows a single type. Is this correct ?

Spookyamp_opamp.JPG
 
OK , spooky BOM ... both output BOM's -
And Thimios .. if you are using Wolverine boards , you might be at the main OPS BIAS limit for these <4mA IPS's. Wolverine runs at
5+ .... In the simulations , I reduced the resistor in series with the main bias trimmer to 330R.
PS - BOM's will be in the first post in one ZIP file - " BOM.ZIP" , I will put a text file for each PCB in that file.
OS
 
8 years ago , only one of my builders/testers made one of these input stages.
He "rolled" many a op-amp into this design. he finally tested an OPAxxx op-amp on it.
200+ V/us square waves and phenomenal sound came out - no magic smoke.
Such a strange design , adapted from some obscure corner of the internet.
I can see many refinements that I can incorporate now.
PS - he was listening to what a TL072 , NE5532 , or any other op-amp sounded like at 100 watts. crazy...
It servo's and plays audio leveraging the source/sink of a common $0 .70 cheap chip....

Hi OS,
Your little spooky amp looks very cool. I like compact SMT front ends and 60W is a nice value for most home audio use.

With regards to your note about using cheap opamps to do high voltage swings as a driver…

I tried out the bootstrapped opamp from 1974 Electronics World article and got a cheap 5534 opamp to swing 70Vpp. Worked quite well.

https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...-easy-peasy-70v-peak-peak-opamp-for-1.314456/

bootstrap-opamp-setup-jpg.644183


I am also using OPA454 as the driver stage for 0dB gain Class A amps. Here is the LuFo amp that uses this. This one has its own built in DCDC converter for +/-50v on the lower deck of the mezzanine board.

https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/lufo-amp-39w-se-class-a-from-28v-rail.372679/

b543d4c7-ca91-470c-b157-e4a4c1d9598b-jpeg.962412
 
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Neato ! Cheepamp power amp hybrid !!

Oh , wow ! Mouser has FJV1845/992's (SOT23) 25c apiece. We can use these for all my designs .... not obsolete.
https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/308/1/FJV992_D-2313858.pdf
Will add these to the Spook BOM.
Hi OS,
Your little spooky amp looks very cool. I like compact SMT front ends and 60W is a nice value for most home audio use.
There also is it's VERY big brother - I just finished it ! (below) I'm using it's full (Spooky + Arkwelder) layout to choose the BOM BJT's.
This OPS was built by Evan C. 8 years ago ... runs his big custom 15" bass units to the max with it ! 100% proven bombproof unit !
This new version should work even better (cooler).

SMD BJT's are a bit different than their TH equivalents . Lower Cob , lower Pd , smaller die ?? All my designs are just 1.7-2mA differential
currents = .1W or less and only 11.4V supplies. My only worry is the high voltage VAS. Hence , the low 3.8mA design criteria.
But , we have this neato EF3. I have not noticed much THD degradation <4mA , at 2.8mA ... the Cob of the EF3 pre-drivers up's the THD
to a whopping 11PPM ?

To clarify these amp ratings -
OST mini = either 60 or 100W depending on whether you use 2 or 4 NJWxxxx's - 50V rails.
Arkwelder = 300W/8R or up to 500W/4R with lower rail voltages (SOA dependent). 60-65V rails would be optimum.160V SMD and
TTA/C BJT's would limit safe operation to 70V supplies. SMD VAS BJT choices are slim >160V. I'd rather drive lower Z speakers
with lower rails and better SOA. At least none of my designs depend on obsolete components !
Back to the BOM's.
OS
 

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Thanks JW ! I caught that one late night.
I was thinking of Slewmaster days to finish the big one (below).
Now both are at first post.
A very snotty amp !! Hellraiser would swing full rail to rail in 1/2 uS.
I will add the BOM's right in the package with their corresponding artwork/gerbers.
What is "soldermask offset" in the excellon drill generator ?? Sprint seems to have it set at .3mm ?

OS
 

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I have been looking at the Wolverine builds .....
I see they use big fat 4mm aluminum heatsinks on the PCB for the drivers, predrivers ... even the VAS !
Don't need that ?? Even the drivers , like on the original HK680 - have no heatsinking.
(below) is standard T651 aluminum ... 2,5mm, spaced the TO-220's and the bigger TO-3p's . Screenprint is 2.5mm
for spacing the heatsink , not the final artwork. On both boards - Q107,103. and Q108 are opposed , heatsink should be sturdy.
Ripple eaters (and predrivers) also need NO heatsinking. Only reason for any heatsinking is to thermally connect Q103 (Vbe 2).
OS
 

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