markusA ... a guy can use solid stock (lumber) and mitre a rough quarter radius. Table saw required to cut the staves. Finish the rough radius with hand tools or sander. Go as big as you want with this method.
Been there, done that, I don't recommend it. "Finish the rough radius with hand tools or sander." is exceedingly tedious and time consuming.
One man's tedious and time consuming is another man's hobby:
Canadian Digs Out Basement Using Only Radio Controlled Scale Tractors and Trucks...Since 2005! - Carscoops
So the joy is in the tedium and not in the listening? Hum, something about that seems strange to me.
Dats the Canadian's then eh!
Dats the Canadian's then eh!
Sometimes the joy is in the process as much as in the result.
I would find digging a basement by remote control exceedingly tedious, but apparently there's someone enjoying the process. I build my own bicycle wheels and find that satisfying to do, others would never want to bother. When I bake bread I let the mixer do the kneading, some cooks find the twenty minutes spent hand-kneading dough to be theraputic.
Making big roundovers by hand might seem tedious to you, but you can't assume that all others will feel the same. That's all I'm saying.
Bill
I've had good results using a 60 degree miter right off the baffle edge then a 30 degree angle on the side of the baffle. Easing the sharp edges over blends the cuts. This can be done on a table saw pretty easily.
Here is a sample piece I made before trying it. This is with two layers of 3/4" MDF. the inner layer could be a two inch wide strip if you didn't want an 1 1/2" thick baffle.
Here is a sample piece I made before trying it. This is with two layers of 3/4" MDF. the inner layer could be a two inch wide strip if you didn't want an 1 1/2" thick baffle.
You can use large prefab'd radii, which I've done, or use a tablesaw to put a nice fat bevel on the front baffle, which just requires enough material thickness. If you start your build with a 2x2 sub-frame behind the baffle, you'll have plenty of corner thickness to do a big fat 45 degree bevel. Multiple passes with the tablesaw are fine, too, just make sure you do the setup right and it won't take that long.
Glad I'm not the only one to feel this way 😉 There's the art, the sense of achievement, the relaxation. Some draw or do crossword puzzles. But I can't deny the occasional frustration when I begin to think I want to know how these will sound.
An angle grinder (4") with an emery flap wheel is good for removing excess material from a radius in a hurry.
There's a saying that goes "the journey is worth more than the goal" and I think it's sort of appropriate.
If I didn't like doing it myself I would never have started with DIY. 😉
I'm a shop-teacher by trade (sort of), the woodworking isn't a problem as long as I have access to a wood shop and tools. 🙂
Otoh, I'd rather do a perfect 45 degree bevel than a sloppy radii so tools matter.
I have built my own tools in the past...
Prefabbed MDF radii, that's a first. 🙂
Never seen that over here though.
For the same reason I'm probably doing passive crossovers. Building crossovers is an artform and I have the time.
Goíng digital would be way easier but why opt for the easy way out when you're doing it for fun.
Kerfing the MDF is an option I guess?
If I didn't like doing it myself I would never have started with DIY. 😉
I'm a shop-teacher by trade (sort of), the woodworking isn't a problem as long as I have access to a wood shop and tools. 🙂
Otoh, I'd rather do a perfect 45 degree bevel than a sloppy radii so tools matter.
I have built my own tools in the past...
Prefabbed MDF radii, that's a first. 🙂
Never seen that over here though.
For the same reason I'm probably doing passive crossovers. Building crossovers is an artform and I have the time.
Goíng digital would be way easier but why opt for the easy way out when you're doing it for fun.
Kerfing the MDF is an option I guess?
.... don't know how the world managed without lasers and routers. 😀
Working with hand tools is not that big a deal gedlee.
Instead of starting a new thread I'll just try to incorporate this into the current one.
Drivers are supposed to be recessed and flush mounted.
What would it be like if you instead of recessing them in the wood, used thick felt to recess them? It would be a flush mount but with porous material on the sueface instead?
How would that affect diffraction/the sound in general?
Drivers are supposed to be recessed and flush mounted.
What would it be like if you instead of recessing them in the wood, used thick felt to recess them? It would be a flush mount but with porous material on the sueface instead?
How would that affect diffraction/the sound in general?
Ineffective. It does practically nothing for a tweeter faceplate (the primary driver affected) and is too thin to have much impact on the baffle edge diffraction for any driver.
Dave
Felt around the tweeter absorbs the wave component traveling along the baffle surface. It is quite effective and reduces the diffraction at the baffle edges significantly. I guess it reduces the diffraction at the boundary of a surface mounted faceplate as well.
David Ralph's Speaker Pages - Felt Effects on Baffle Diffraction
Strassacker, Komponenten: Lautsprecher, Frequenzweichen, Bauelemente
Strassacker, Komponenten: Lautsprecher, Frequenzweichen, Bauelemente
I called it ineffective (your first link is to my page) because the question was related to surface mounting, then using felt to try to effectively flush mount. I have tested this as I had hoped it would benefit. It is ineffective as I described it above. The felt is both ineffective at the tweeter faceplate edge and does too little for the baffle surface because it is too thin given that most tweeters have a faceplate only 3-4 mm thick.
Dave
It depends on the size of the source, and the actual frequency being radiated.
They'll still respond to a change. Even when they are too small to wrap, those near the baffle edge can diffract as they pass.
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