While rebuilding the Versa , I did make a lighted vacuum and pressure gauge/ enclosure to monitor everything.
The center knob controls the vacuum pressure as it is the same pot value in the
Sota box.
No , it will have no effect on the pump vacuum, its simply in series with vacuum line to the gauge
As far as the oil I used a synthetic instead
Regards
David
Last edited:
Great looking stuff! I just began to look at gauges, and they all seem to have those huge brass fittings. I have to figure out the adapter to small houses in my ps/vacuum box. And in my box the gauge can not be in series, it will have to be connected with a “T” connector... Which brand gauges did you use? Thank you
I searched for the smallest dia. gauges and picked up these on eBay, however the vacuum one is not sensitive enough to be deemed very accurate, the pressure is fine.I was looking for the same dial markings style from the same mfgr. which limits your choices
If you have no constraint on size go bigger imo.
Even the small dia. gauges have big end fittings and you have to get creative in the brass hardware dept. of your local hardware store. I had most of the air connections from years ago and the reason it’s a mishmash of connections . Had to machine a few PCs even, a pain
The -T - air coupler can be found in auto parts store or aquarium supplies
Regards
David
Last edited:
"Manifold vacuum gauge" at the auto-parts shop usually has small fitting.
Two kinds: in-the-hand for tune-up work, and in the dashboard to sex-up your hot-rod.
Google shop search
Happy to report that vacuum has been fixed, and it's holding the records very well, going from about 5 at start to 2.5 in "maintenance". Now I need to "pry" records off with the famous "finger nail" maneuver ))). Speed stability - no improvements here. After I've replaced all the electrolytics, and re-lubed main bearing with PTFE grease on top, and light PTFE on shaft, wow/flutter actually became worse. W/f was hovering just below .2% before, now it closer to .3%. I guess the Eclipse upgrade is the only way to go...
I have removed the oil, as was suggested by some, and tried the bearing with just a dab on the ball and only the thinnest wipe of a very light Tufoil ptfe on shaft. Figures immediately went down, from .3% to .15%. The variation is still high - .11 to .17. And now a small play in bearing can be felt. Perhaps the bushings do need to be replaced. Between this and the lip that refuses to go down in one sector (may be one vacuum channel is blocked?) this platter needs work, I think. I will play a record soon and will report on audible speed stability.
I got my instructions on my Dais deck ( manufactured -Nottingham-UK) direct from the design engineer by telephone in the 80,s .
His words were light oil and when you push the spindle attached to the inner section of the deck it should go down slowly in a hydraulic type action .
If it just drops down the bearing bush is worn , there should be no side-play----period.
That should apply to most decks .
Bushes can be replaced usually they are a pressure fit but it depends on the designer, in engineering I have replaced 1000,s but there again I had a whole engineering factory equipment to use.
Do not attempt to use a simple pillar drill to make one nor worse a hand drill we are talking 1000,s of an inch not some wobbly vertical drill or shaking hand .
I can assure you wear in a bearing DO cause speed variations in revolving shafts , I had to repair precision turning machines and center lathes etc used for high quality industrial products.
It also must be mirror smooth , no cutting ridges -bumps etc internally .
External was a hydraulic press fit but I was working with large equipment .
His words were light oil and when you push the spindle attached to the inner section of the deck it should go down slowly in a hydraulic type action .
If it just drops down the bearing bush is worn , there should be no side-play----period.
That should apply to most decks .
Bushes can be replaced usually they are a pressure fit but it depends on the designer, in engineering I have replaced 1000,s but there again I had a whole engineering factory equipment to use.
Do not attempt to use a simple pillar drill to make one nor worse a hand drill we are talking 1000,s of an inch not some wobbly vertical drill or shaking hand .
I can assure you wear in a bearing DO cause speed variations in revolving shafts , I had to repair precision turning machines and center lathes etc used for high quality industrial products.
It also must be mirror smooth , no cutting ridges -bumps etc internally .
External was a hydraulic press fit but I was working with large equipment .
Thx
I may send the platter to Sota to replace the lip and bushings, a bit later. Because for now, even with this play in bushings, it sounds fantastic! Speed instability is gone, or at least it’s below my sensory threshold. So far this is the best record player I’ve ever had. It’s not for somebody who’s looking for that “warm analog sound”. It’s a ruthlessly accurate instrument, that shows you exactly what’s on the record. Surprisingly - or perhaps not - by stripping records of as much colorations and distortions as possible, it makes many more records listenable. So far I’m mesmerized. A huge thanks to all who helped me! I still have a lot of work to do on it but it’s worth it.
I may send the platter to Sota to replace the lip and bushings, a bit later. Because for now, even with this play in bushings, it sounds fantastic! Speed instability is gone, or at least it’s below my sensory threshold. So far this is the best record player I’ve ever had. It’s not for somebody who’s looking for that “warm analog sound”. It’s a ruthlessly accurate instrument, that shows you exactly what’s on the record. Surprisingly - or perhaps not - by stripping records of as much colorations and distortions as possible, it makes many more records listenable. So far I’m mesmerized. A huge thanks to all who helped me! I still have a lot of work to do on it but it’s worth it.
Thinking about your vinyl to platter seal. Failing reconditioning with chemical, I first wondered about making a new one from a strip of inner tube. But cutting it straight and from exactly the right part of the tube would take some time and some sort of jig/pattern making.
Then thought of making one from silicone and found a possible approach video here . . . . . . . .
Then(!) found an Audio Asylum post from 2004 where SOTA sent the owner a new seal for $50. (Maybe now they'd do the same for the equivalent price?)
Also, maybe this guy can sell the original seals or has tips on service?
Anyway, main point is - Really enjoying your thread. Going from advice to get rid of the deck to lining up small successes. Very cool! Persistence ! Gotta love it!
Then thought of making one from silicone and found a possible approach video here . . . . . . . .
Then(!) found an Audio Asylum post from 2004 where SOTA sent the owner a new seal for $50. (Maybe now they'd do the same for the equivalent price?)
Also, maybe this guy can sell the original seals or has tips on service?
Anyway, main point is - Really enjoying your thread. Going from advice to get rid of the deck to lining up small successes. Very cool! Persistence ! Gotta love it!
Thank you!
So this is the breakdown:
1) Sota no longer sells parts to end buyer. Lip replacement service is performed by Sota themselves only;
2) if I were to attempt to do it myself, the main problem would be to try to remove the top acrylic layer, which is about 1/4” thick. Some special solvent is needed, to dissolve the glue but not the layer. Not easy. But then - where to get the new lip?
3) my lip is still dealing very well after I’ve sanded it. But it has a peculiar problem: in about 1/6 segment of circumference the lip does not want to go down, forming a hump. Whether the vertical part of the lip has hardened, or it was incorrectly glued in to begin with, I don’t know. I have to tap Edge of a record on that segment with my finger to flatten the record. I will try to make a short video. If not for this, my vacuum would be perfect.
4). Since the bronze bushings are worn and need to be replaced, the lip should be replaced at the same time. This expense is at least $500, I have to get the exact price from Sota. May be I can trade in my complete platter towards a rebuilt one?
Thank you for your support!
So this is the breakdown:
1) Sota no longer sells parts to end buyer. Lip replacement service is performed by Sota themselves only;
2) if I were to attempt to do it myself, the main problem would be to try to remove the top acrylic layer, which is about 1/4” thick. Some special solvent is needed, to dissolve the glue but not the layer. Not easy. But then - where to get the new lip?
3) my lip is still dealing very well after I’ve sanded it. But it has a peculiar problem: in about 1/6 segment of circumference the lip does not want to go down, forming a hump. Whether the vertical part of the lip has hardened, or it was incorrectly glued in to begin with, I don’t know. I have to tap Edge of a record on that segment with my finger to flatten the record. I will try to make a short video. If not for this, my vacuum would be perfect.
4). Since the bronze bushings are worn and need to be replaced, the lip should be replaced at the same time. This expense is at least $500, I have to get the exact price from Sota. May be I can trade in my complete platter towards a rebuilt one?
Thank you for your support!
You mentioned the speed variation went down in post#51 when you applied some oil but now it has come back , that's normal in engineering as the oil "takes up" the wear by hydraulic action but when it thins out via the wear it becomes worse again .
You have got so far with help here ---DON'T give up , if you could find the bush dimensions and type of bronze I am sure it could be made a lot cheaper if that is what the issue is.
Where is your US "Fighting Spirit ", I am not American but I have the same determination as many Americans I know --an army against me ?---I take to the hills with a guerilla group and fight on .
Giving up isn't an option for me there is more than one way to "skin a cat " ( old UK saying ) .
No don't give up , modern domestic equipment manufacturers save money by forcing you to change whole sections of equipment rather than individual parts , that applies right across the engineering board .
This gives shareholders increased value for their shares , but before this equipment could be taken apart and individual parts replaced , your deck is of older equipment design and I am sure the bush bearing can be removed and replaced .
There are many small US engineering factories left they all haven't gone to China and that to me is real "US Enterprise " not the large conglomerates -- raise the Flag "Old Glory " and soldier on --I would.
You have got so far with help here ---DON'T give up , if you could find the bush dimensions and type of bronze I am sure it could be made a lot cheaper if that is what the issue is.
Where is your US "Fighting Spirit ", I am not American but I have the same determination as many Americans I know --an army against me ?---I take to the hills with a guerilla group and fight on .
Giving up isn't an option for me there is more than one way to "skin a cat " ( old UK saying ) .
No don't give up , modern domestic equipment manufacturers save money by forcing you to change whole sections of equipment rather than individual parts , that applies right across the engineering board .
This gives shareholders increased value for their shares , but before this equipment could be taken apart and individual parts replaced , your deck is of older equipment design and I am sure the bush bearing can be removed and replaced .
There are many small US engineering factories left they all haven't gone to China and that to me is real "US Enterprise " not the large conglomerates -- raise the Flag "Old Glory " and soldier on --I would.
Thank you Duncan
But at some point I have to say enough is enough. I can’t spend so much time and money on this thing. These parts are this item-specific, and will cost even more to duplicate outside Sota. Platter AND the shaft have to go to Sota for new bushings, so they can match them, so the whole table will have to be shipped back; seller told me that motor was replaced a few years back, so this problem seems to be persistent and intermittent, I think the motor and electronics are bad. To replace all of that will cost a fortune, namely about $2000. Plus the $1000 that I paid for it. Does not make sense to me. I will let somebody else do it. I will go back to my lowly but reliable Denon direct drive. My troops are leaving Syria )))
But at some point I have to say enough is enough. I can’t spend so much time and money on this thing. These parts are this item-specific, and will cost even more to duplicate outside Sota. Platter AND the shaft have to go to Sota for new bushings, so they can match them, so the whole table will have to be shipped back; seller told me that motor was replaced a few years back, so this problem seems to be persistent and intermittent, I think the motor and electronics are bad. To replace all of that will cost a fortune, namely about $2000. Plus the $1000 that I paid for it. Does not make sense to me. I will let somebody else do it. I will go back to my lowly but reliable Denon direct drive. My troops are leaving Syria )))