Correct, front panel LED wiring. They're color coded, red for positive PSU voltage, blue for negative PSU voltage. They're a visual reminder for the polarity of the sides/sections of the PSU, which hopefully helped avoiding wiring mistakes upon assembly. Guess I'll find out tonight 🙂
Hi Jlithen,
Do you know the Idss of your jfets? Assuming you need no more than 5V
for Vgs to bias up the mosfets then you should be ok if the Idss is over 7mA.
If the Vgs voltage needed is actually close to 4V then even the minimum
BL/B grade Idss of 6mA should work.
Hopefully others can share their experience.
Cheers,
Dennis
Do you know the Idss of your jfets? Assuming you need no more than 5V
for Vgs to bias up the mosfets then you should be ok if the Idss is over 7mA.
If the Vgs voltage needed is actually close to 4V then even the minimum
BL/B grade Idss of 6mA should work.
Hopefully others can share their experience.
Cheers,
Dennis
hi nelson,
any comment to my post "2630"?
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/276711-sony-vfet-amplifier-part-2-a-263.html#post4974961
thanks and regards
any comment to my post "2630"?
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/276711-sony-vfet-amplifier-part-2-a-263.html#post4974961
thanks and regards
Hi Jlithen,
Do you know the Idss of your jfets? Assuming you need no more than 5V
for Vgs to bias up the mosfets then you should be ok if the Idss is over 7mA.
If the Vgs voltage needed is actually close to 4V then even the minimum
BL/B grade Idss of 6mA should work.
Hopefully others can share their experience.
Cheers,
Dennis
Hi Dennis,
Ok, I understand how you mean.
BOTH Fairchild FETs I just tested had VGS = 4.54V @ 10mA ! (no need to match VGS)
I think I will complete one channel in a couple of days and let you know how it worked out for me.
I have BL and GR ranks of 2SJ74/2SK170, maybe some other usable JFETs too.
Thanks!
//Jonas
hi nelson,
any comment to my post "2630"?
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/276711-sony-vfet-amplifier-part-2-a-263.html#post4974961
thanks and regards
You could investigate tying the two R4's together instead of to ground.
If you don't develop enough voltage to drive Q5 and Q6 (and you will find
out during initial testing) then you can more easily raise the values of R34
and R35. Probably take them up to 475 ohms.
out during initial testing) then you can more easily raise the values of R34
and R35. Probably take them up to 475 ohms.
You could investigate tying the two R4's together instead of to ground.
many thanks, nelson, for the quick replay. i will give it a try when i have it up and running.
kind regards
thanks, gyuri. i have also a dac with balanced output. maybe i take this output and just put a resistive attenuator inbetween.You don't need transformer, only a balanced preamp like BOSOZ, I think.
If you don't develop enough voltage to drive Q5 and Q6 (and you will find
out during initial testing) then you can more easily raise the values of R34
and R35. Probably take them up to 475 ohms.
That answered my question perfectly!
Thank you Nelson.
I want to present my acknowledgments to all those who, in some way, contribute to the "diyaudio" community.
I would also like to express my gratitude to Jason and everybody else that has contributed to materialize the "diyaudiostore" and all its projects.
This store has become, whitout a doubt, one of the most trustworthy sources for DIYers from all around the world.
Thank you guys.
😀
I would also like to express my gratitude to Jason and everybody else that has contributed to materialize the "diyaudiostore" and all its projects.
This store has become, whitout a doubt, one of the most trustworthy sources for DIYers from all around the world.
Thank you guys.
😀
With Idss around 7mA on JFETs and VGS = 4.54V @ 10mA on Fairchild FETs I get about 500uA bias on the Fairchilds 🙂
Better increase the values of the resistor as Papa said.
I do not even have suitable quality 1k trimmers at home.
Our electronics store in out fantastic little town has decided to stop selling Bourns and moved to some chinese brand "ti" or something like that. I do not dare to use them.
But they have some cermet trimmers from BiTechnologies.
Anyone have any opinion about them?
I think they look like good quality.
Better increase the values of the resistor as Papa said.
I do not even have suitable quality 1k trimmers at home.
Our electronics store in out fantastic little town has decided to stop selling Bourns and moved to some chinese brand "ti" or something like that. I do not dare to use them.
But they have some cermet trimmers from BiTechnologies.
Anyone have any opinion about them?
I think they look like good quality.
I've used Bi technologies trimmers before and had no issues with them. I figure
anything I can get at mouser or digikey can't be that bad. 🙂
Cheers,
Dennis
anything I can get at mouser or digikey can't be that bad. 🙂
Cheers,
Dennis
An email has been sent to everyone on the VFET kit mailing list. The email contains your "group" number and the exact time that your group will be sent an invitation to pre-order an essential kit from batch 3. The invitations are spaced exactly 12 hours apart and the time is specified so you know exactly when your email will arrive and you can be available at that time to take action. If you have any questions regarding this process, you didn't get your email, etc, please contact store customer support directly (don't post in this thread and please don't send me a PM) via email at contact@diyaudiostore.com. Thank you!
For any general information about the kits, please check the Sony VFET kit status page on the store.
For any general information about the kits, please check the Sony VFET kit status page on the store.
To anybody that has finished this kit: how does the temperature look like after an hour of idle time?
I must decide between the 4U deluxe (300mm deep with single heatsink) or the 4U Dissipante (400mm with 2 heatsinks) to fit our warmer summer climate. Yesterday it was 38 degrees C, and can easily go to 43 here. I don't want to go the 5U Deluxe to keep costs down.
I must decide between the 4U deluxe (300mm deep with single heatsink) or the 4U Dissipante (400mm with 2 heatsinks) to fit our warmer summer climate. Yesterday it was 38 degrees C, and can easily go to 43 here. I don't want to go the 5U Deluxe to keep costs down.
To anybody that has finished this kit: how does the temperature look like after an hour of idle time?
I must decide between the 4U deluxe (300mm deep with single heatsink) or the 4U Dissipante (400mm with 2 heatsinks) to fit our warmer summer climate. Yesterday it was 38 degrees C, and can easily go to 43 here. I don't want to go the 5U Deluxe to keep costs down.
You can never have too much heatsink! 😉
Okay, let's see, this is fairly straight forward.
According to https://www.modushop.biz/site/index.php?route=product/product&path=71_149_161&product_id=341 the 4U 400mm deep heatsink has a temperature coefficient of 0,38 C°/W.
According to https://www.modushop.biz/site/index.php?route=product/product&path=71_149_161&product_id=342 the 5U 400mm deep heatsink has a temperature coefficient of 0,28 C°/W.
With ±28V at 1A each you'll have about P=U*I=60W of dissipated heat per channel. With the 4U 0,38 C°/W you'll ideally have a temperature rise of 0,38°C/W*60W=22,8°C.
With the 5U 0,28 C°/W you'll ideally have a temperature rise of 0,28°C/W*60W=16,8°C.
Add to that your ambient temperature and choose whichever heatsink reliably stays below, say, 60°C.
Edit: I think there is a typo on the modushop website, since the temperature coefficient for the 4U 300mm is listed lower than the temperature coefficient for the 4U 400mm, which can't be true.
According to https://www.modushop.biz/site/index.php?route=product/product&path=71_149_161&product_id=341 the 4U 400mm deep heatsink has a temperature coefficient of 0,38 C°/W.
According to https://www.modushop.biz/site/index.php?route=product/product&path=71_149_161&product_id=342 the 5U 400mm deep heatsink has a temperature coefficient of 0,28 C°/W.
With ±28V at 1A each you'll have about P=U*I=60W of dissipated heat per channel. With the 4U 0,38 C°/W you'll ideally have a temperature rise of 0,38°C/W*60W=22,8°C.
With the 5U 0,28 C°/W you'll ideally have a temperature rise of 0,28°C/W*60W=16,8°C.
Add to that your ambient temperature and choose whichever heatsink reliably stays below, say, 60°C.
Edit: I think there is a typo on the modushop website, since the temperature coefficient for the 4U 300mm is listed lower than the temperature coefficient for the 4U 400mm, which can't be true.
Last edited:
Which all indicates that henryve must use the 5U case and switch it off when ambient rises above 43 degrees [emoji6]Okay, let's see, this is fairly straight forward.
According to https://www.modushop.biz/site/index.php?route=product/product&path=71_149_161&product_id=341 the 4U 400mm deep heatsink has a temperature coefficient of 0,38 C°/W.
According to https://www.modushop.biz/site/index.php?route=product/product&path=71_149_161&product_id=342 the 5U 400mm deep heatsink has a temperature coefficient of 0,28 C°/W.
With ±28V at 1A each you'll have about P=U*I=60W of dissipated heat per channel. With the 4U 0,38 C°/W you'll ideally have a temperature rise of 0,38°C/W*60W=22,8°C.
With the 5U 0,28 C°/W you'll ideally have a temperature rise of 0,28°C/W*60W=16,8°C.
Add to that your ambient temperature and choose whichever heatsink reliably stays below, say, 60°C.
Edit: I think there is a typo on the modushop website, since the temperature coefficient for the 4U 300mm is listed lower than the temperature coefficient for the 4U 400mm, which can't be true.
Yikes!
Which is why I am using .12°C/W heatsinks for my KSA50 clone.
We need an DIY Audio chassis for us staying in proverbial hell.
Which is why I am using .12°C/W heatsinks for my KSA50 clone.
We need an DIY Audio chassis for us staying in proverbial hell.

Okay, let's see, this is fairly straight forward.
According to https://www.modushop.biz/site/index.php?route=product/product&path=71_149_161&product_id=341 the 4U 400mm deep heatsink has a temperature coefficient of 0,38 C°/W.
According to https://www.modushop.biz/site/index.php?route=product/product&path=71_149_161&product_id=342 the 5U 400mm deep heatsink has a temperature coefficient of 0,28 C°/W.
With ±28V at 1A each you'll have about P=U*I=60W of dissipated heat per channel. With the 4U 0,38 C°/W you'll ideally have a temperature rise of 0,38°C/W*60W=22,8°C.
With the 5U 0,28 C°/W you'll ideally have a temperature rise of 0,28°C/W*60W=16,8°C.
Add to that your ambient temperature and choose whichever heatsink reliably stays below, say, 60°C.
Edit: I think there is a typo on the modushop website, since the temperature coefficient for the 4U 300mm is listed lower than the temperature coefficient for the 4U 400mm, which can't be true.
No typo I guess: when going 4U 400mm you have two heatsinks of 200mm per side of 0.38K/W resulting in 0.19K/W total.
So 4U will be sufficient for that 60 Watts.
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