Psu question
Sorry to drop in with this question but what should i choose for powering a T-amp: 12v 7a battery or a stabilized 13,8vdc 3a transformer?
Thanks
Kane
Sorry to drop in with this question but what should i choose for powering a T-amp: 12v 7a battery or a stabilized 13,8vdc 3a transformer?
Thanks
Kane
You will probably need to try both. I find they give a slightly different presentation to the music. They wil both sound good, but you will need to rig up a charger to keep the battery topped up.
Charlize SMPS
Sorry may be this is slightly off topic
I am using a cheapo SMPS unit with my Charlize amp modded with 2.2uf Obbligato foil in copper caps. I heard that Charlize really perform much better if paired with high quality SMPS. Anyone found any good supply for t2020 chip amp? Apart from the Decibel Dungeon's one that requires some mod on the output.
Or, has anyone developed a SMPS specially for Charlize or similar Class-T amp?
Sorry may be this is slightly off topic
I am using a cheapo SMPS unit with my Charlize amp modded with 2.2uf Obbligato foil in copper caps. I heard that Charlize really perform much better if paired with high quality SMPS. Anyone found any good supply for t2020 chip amp? Apart from the Decibel Dungeon's one that requires some mod on the output.
Or, has anyone developed a SMPS specially for Charlize or similar Class-T amp?
Re: Charlize SMPS
😕 The Charlize has the same 12-13.5V single-rail requirements as the T-amp, so one of Nuke's psus should suit without mods, or any of the SMPS power blocks linked above. If by 'mod' you mean a big OTT booster cap on the 12V rail, I don't think any commercial supply will have that as standard plus it's at the amp end of the supply wires.
Diatone said:
😕 The Charlize has the same 12-13.5V single-rail requirements as the T-amp, so one of Nuke's psus should suit without mods, or any of the SMPS power blocks linked above. If by 'mod' you mean a big OTT booster cap on the 12V rail, I don't think any commercial supply will have that as standard plus it's at the amp end of the supply wires.
Powersupply
Thanks for answers.
I´m planning to rehouse the amp in a woodbox so space is limitted. I´ll think i go for the 13,8vdc.
Is there a recipie for building a charger for batteries(12v)? It looks like a nice concept with battery power/charger in the same box as the amp.
Thanks for tons of useful info on this forum!
Kane
Thanks for answers.
I´m planning to rehouse the amp in a woodbox so space is limitted. I´ll think i go for the 13,8vdc.
Is there a recipie for building a charger for batteries(12v)? It looks like a nice concept with battery power/charger in the same box as the amp.
Thanks for tons of useful info on this forum!
Kane
I run my 2020 with a 12V batt + 2 6800uf caps in parallel bypassed by 0.1 polys. Sounds very good.
NUUK's smps
If I remember correctly, NUUK's smps need to be added on a resistor somewhere in order for it to work on T-amp. I forgot the exact details. And I don't konw why it requires such extra resistor as I am not an electronic intellect. I do hope someone here can throw some lights onto this.
If I remember correctly, NUUK's smps need to be added on a resistor somewhere in order for it to work on T-amp. I forgot the exact details. And I don't konw why it requires such extra resistor as I am not an electronic intellect. I do hope someone here can throw some lights onto this.
Re: NUUK's smps
Forgot that 😱 , some SMPS supplies need a minimum load to give accurate regulation, and a T-amp is by definition a very light load in quiet bits. For example, an ATX computer supply needs 5W on the 5V line.
edit: I see Nuuk just uses a 10K uF capacitor across the SMPS output?
Maybe a 10mF or a 10,000uF one would do.
Diatone said:
Forgot that 😱 , some SMPS supplies need a minimum load to give accurate regulation, and a T-amp is by definition a very light load in quiet bits. For example, an ATX computer supply needs 5W on the 5V line.
edit: I see Nuuk just uses a 10K uF capacitor across the SMPS output?
Maybe a 10mF or a 10,000uF one would do.
C10 cap
Hi.
This are my first steps in tunning T-Amp, so i have a question😉
Is C10 cap necessary when my power supply is battery?
I think that T-Amp sounds better when I remove it.
Somebody help me please! Thanks🙂
Hi.
This are my first steps in tunning T-Amp, so i have a question😉
Is C10 cap necessary when my power supply is battery?
I think that T-Amp sounds better when I remove it.
Somebody help me please! Thanks🙂
Re: C10 cap
Well.... If your amp is running without it, it isn't "necessary." But the amps do sound better with a large, good qaulity amp in that spot. The better T-Amps use 2 or more caps in this spot. The BWRX Ref-T has 4.
What do you like better about the sound without the cap?
a_men said:
Well.... If your amp is running without it, it isn't "necessary." But the amps do sound better with a large, good qaulity amp in that spot. The better T-Amps use 2 or more caps in this spot. The BWRX Ref-T has 4.
What do you like better about the sound without the cap?
Re: Re: C10 cap
In my opinion sound is more neutral, open and airy. It's almost like live. There is freedom and emotion in music.
When i use Panasonic FM 680uF/16V cap i found it more technical, emotions are gone, sound is dull and suppressed. Midrange is "glassy".
Forgive me my poor english, I'm not native speaker😉
panomaniac said:
In my opinion sound is more neutral, open and airy. It's almost like live. There is freedom and emotion in music.
When i use Panasonic FM 680uF/16V cap i found it more technical, emotions are gone, sound is dull and suppressed. Midrange is "glassy".
Forgive me my poor english, I'm not native speaker😉
P.S.
I have little buzz in my speakers. Do you think that it gone when i replace negative feedback resistors to metal film type?
I have little buzz in my speakers. Do you think that it gone when i replace negative feedback resistors to metal film type?
Lostcause said:
There's no C10, but with C10 (stock and Panasonic FM) I've had the same problem. Do you think that "dirty" power comes from Yuasa battery?
When I turn on my CD player the buzz is stronger, but CD has AC power supply.
Noise figures for a lead-acid suggests they're not all that quiet under load... 
Links to this thread here.
Links to this thread here.
Those battery noise plots are much like mine. Glad to see them.
Batteries are very quiet until you put a load onn them, then they are noiser than most AC supplies.
Batteries are very quiet until you put a load onn them, then they are noiser than most AC supplies.
a_men said:
Sounds like a grounding issue, I ended up linking my ground wires to earth to kill the humm when the CD was linked up.
Although I use a modified PS1 that isn't earthed and 'floating' (is that the right terminology?). When I connect my old CD the humm goes away.
That happens to me, too.
I can set up a system with no connection to ground and it will be quiet. Add just one thing, and buzzzz. A good connection to ground always cures it.
That noise has to drian off somewhere!
I can set up a system with no connection to ground and it will be quiet. Add just one thing, and buzzzz. A good connection to ground always cures it.
That noise has to drian off somewhere!
ClarityCap
I got an package from ClarityCap with two caps for free!
Just get the free sample here!
http://www.claritycap.co.uk/contact2.asp
Very good sounding!
I got an package from ClarityCap with two caps for free!
Just get the free sample here!
http://www.claritycap.co.uk/contact2.asp
Very good sounding!
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