Sonic Impact 5066 Parts List & Modifications

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#282
The Vinnie mods power caps are directly soldered onto the chip power rails itself. Its not too an easy mod and pretty fragile to handle. I would suggest using a smaller cap on board < 1000uf if you are using a smps. This is because larger caps can sound less clear in the upper Hz.

Then add a "stiffener" cap, as Micheal often suggests. In addition, i experimented and like the effect of adding a 1ohm and 100nf across my 10000uf "stiffener" caps. It reduces the midbass bloom whilst retaining the depth/slam of added capacitance. Depending on the type of speakers you have, and additional cap might be beneficial.

I am not sure if you have explored other manners of modifications; pertaining to the output inductors and caps and potentiometers. All these combined, will make the T-amp sound pretty competent. The input caps probably give you the most flexibility in tailoring the t-amp to your liking. I really like the mundorfs and obliggatos!
 
#283
Hi everyone

Been a long time dweeler in this forum and now that I finally have the guts to mod my t-amp I hope you gurus would help me in my journey.

Being from australia, I found it hard to locate parts and so far the only place for me to obtain parts cheaply is from au.farnell.com

These are what I've decided on

2x 2.2 uf panasonic Aluminium Electrolytic caps for inputs
1x 10000uf panasonic Aluminium Electrolytic caps for power(Though I am not sure where this should be mounted on since there are no guides for it)
2x 0.1uf AVX tantalum caps for the speakers binding post.

I can't seem to find any good potentiometer in Australia

My questions are:

Am I missing anything important? I would like to order as many parts as I can in 1 to save on shipping

Are the other variables important? I can't seem to find it in the thread if the DC voltage rating matters for the caps and they come in a variety of flavors from 50v rating to 400v. What should I pick?

Are these changes gonna yield a noticeable improvement?

T-amp looks like a good starting point for begginer, I hope u guys go easy on me because this is the first time I am doing this sort of thing . My only wish is that there are guides for total dummies like me, I can't even tell the difference between which leg on a led is positive... but hey, everybody has to start from somewhere and it looks like its gonna be a long and fun journey

Many thanks in advance
 
#284
zester said:
Hi everyone

Been a long time dweeler in this forum and now that I finally have the guts to mod my t-amp I hope you gurus would help me in my journey.

Being from australia, I found it hard to locate parts and so far the only place for me to obtain parts cheaply is from au.farnell.com

These are what I've decided on

2x 2.2 uf panasonic Aluminium Electrolytic caps for inputs
1x 10000uf panasonic Aluminium Electrolytic caps for power(Though I am not sure where this should be mounted on since there are no guides for it)
2x 0.1uf AVX tantalum caps for the speakers binding post.

I can't seem to find any good potentiometer in Australia

My questions are:

Am I missing anything important? I would like to order as many parts as I can in 1 to save on shipping

Are the other variables important? I can't seem to find it in the thread if the DC voltage rating matters for the caps and they come in a variety of flavors from 50v rating to 400v. What should I pick?

Are these changes gonna yield a noticeable improvement?

T-amp looks like a good starting point for begginer, I hope u guys go easy on me because this is the first time I am doing this sort of thing . My only wish is that there are guides for total dummies like me, I can't even tell the difference between which leg on a led is positive... but hey, everybody has to start from somewhere and it looks like its gonna be a long and fun journey

Many thanks in advance
Click to expand...

Welcome on-board zester...and dont wory about being a novice, I may know how to mod a T-amp to death buth I'm definately no EE!
So, where to start? first of all...what's your budget?
The biggest difference is gonna be the changing the input caps and this is where you will also spend the biggest bucks!
Try and get some film/foil caps if you can, Electrolitics are OK but you need some good quality one's to make it worth your while...BlackGates?
Try these if you can stretch to it:
Obs
Go for the premium aluminum film caps 4.7uF (630V) 47 x 33 to keep the cost down.
As for the on-board power cap, try a blackgate from the same place to share delivery costs, email them for sugestions, nice chaps! You're looking for a 10mm diameter (max) cap..8mm if you can, Low ESR is essential.
Forget everything else at this stage, put these in-place with the now infamous 'Stealth' mod and you're onto a winner....it's little steps after this.

Good luck mate

Lee
 
#285
Hi,

Thanks for the reply, I've been looking at their site and it seems promising
Perhaps its worth the wait after all. I have another question, where can I find a good case for it? I havent have much luck with a nice case lately and also how do you guys mount the "external caps" that happens to be not on the pcb?

Many thanks.
 
#286
zester said:
Hi,

Thanks for the reply, I've been looking at their site and it seems promising
Perhaps its worth the wait after all. I have another question, where can I find a good case for it? I havent have much luck with a nice case lately and also how do you guys mount the "external caps" that happens to be not on the pcb?

Many thanks.
Click to expand...

There is a thread on here somewhere that covers exactly that....have a search.

As far as mounting the input caps... well it depends on your case but use shielded wire to conect them to the board if you can. As I said before, use the stealth mod and you may be able to use the lead-outs. That's what I have.....pot....caps..board.....outputs. All in a logical line within a space of about 70 x 50 x 200 mm.

someone put this on a recent thread over in chip amps.
cases

Lee
 
#290
Cpemma.

omg! I actually wanted to email you about your case, I absolutely love the case u use. Unfortunatelly, I am pretty far from your dealers location.

CPU.

Thanks!!! your link is god sent! they have tons of cases there... now if only they have better caps... from the looks of it, I only see the brand samxon and they dont seem to have any "exotic" caps like thin film or oil caps like you guys suggested.

You guys are great! this place is great!! I will take some time browsing on the cases 😀 Cheers!

PS: Cpemma, what do you use to keep the extra caps and pcb secure to the case? and can you tell me the case dimension? Thanks
 
#291
@ zester: Farnell Australia have the case, though not in stock ATM, and unlike Farnell UK the Oz branch looks to be trade-only. 😕

Don't be misled by the picture, the 1455N1602BK is black (though there is a plain anodised equivalent also sold by RS.australia.). Caps are secured with the plastic ties shown, the pcb is bolted down with bits of 1/4" (?) plastic tube cut for spacers top & bottom.

@puffin: At present I'm finding the sound a trifle hard, particularly on classical piano fortissimos. CD source is a NAD5420, no preamp, speakers the old Celestion DL4, they produce a less detailed but smoother sound with my Rotel amp. Is this related to the "listening fatigue" that T-Amp users have noted?
 
#292
Hi cpemma

Thank you thank you!:cheers:

Believe it or not, finiding a case is the hardest part. Now my second hardest would be finding a suitable nice looking knob and some nice oil caps... which none of these shops seems to carry

Quick question, Is the entire enclosure aluminium? what do you use to insulate the rca, binding post ect? I was rather hoping that they were plastic and it would saves me alot of trouble for plugs insulation. I have 0 expereince and I have no idea how to insulate them. Also, was drilling the case difficult?

many thanks!
 
#293
cpemma. I use a valve pre-amp and Mission 773e floorstanders, which are fairly bass light. They are the ones with the Aerogel bass units and gold phase plugs. I use a subwoofer on a very low setting just to augment the bass. I do not get listener fatigue and find the amount of detail coming out of the modified S.I quite amazing. It still makes me smile to think that something so simple and cheap, can sound do good.
 
#294
zester said:
Quick question, Is the entire enclosure aluminium? what do you use to insulate the rca, binding post ect?
Click to expand...

That particular case has plastic end caps, so insulation isn't a problem, and the plastic is a non-brittle type, easy to drill and file, though a drill-press is best for accuracy. But most phono and 4mm sockets are available with insulating bushes for metal panels.

Drilling the anodised aluminium was easy enough (sharp bits, centre-punch to stop drill wander, smaller holes first, slow speed), the difficult part was keeping the top ventilation holes clean so the bare metal wasn't too obvious against the black. My trusty reamer came in, they're also near the back end so not in your face.
 
#298
re-boxed t amp... into mint tin!...

Hell's teeth!.... That is very cool, but it is one VERY tiny amp!...

Looking at the size of my Alps Blue Velvet pot and the Obbligato and stiffener caps, I simply shake my head in wonder...

I do, however, rather enjoy the sight of amps in "unconventional" housings, and admit that yours is an attractive end-product...

Keefe.

😀
 
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