…Comically large port. That’s a monster 18 for reference. It doesn’t go in that box it’s about 7cf too small for an 18… also the wires are only there because I haven’t decided where I want the terminals to be yet. That port area will be breathing at about 30m/s full tilt 5kw at 26hz.
I guess since it’s just a large sphincter the width of a few pieces of plywood instead of an actual ‘port’ that would drastically lower tuning and output for the already gigantic box ?
Naw, stick with your unique TH.
It needs a name.
What's funny is the enclosure looks like a front loader washer or dryer, yet it's not a FLH.
FLTH, The Cleaner, The Blower (30m/s), The Loader, The WhirlFool, The Mouth Gap, The Whirl Series (BP6S), The Mach Mouth, The Tommy Done (shoutout to Tom Danley), The Formidable (shoutout to GTF), etc.
It needs a name.
What's funny is the enclosure looks like a front loader washer or dryer, yet it's not a FLH.
FLTH, The Cleaner, The Blower (30m/s), The Loader, The WhirlFool, The Mouth Gap, The Whirl Series (BP6S), The Mach Mouth, The Tommy Done (shoutout to Tom Danley), The Formidable (shoutout to GTF), etc.
Sorry if I didn’t make it clear enough before but this design has already been established by circlomanen. It’s an hroar. I said it in a few posts including the original post when deciding what I was doing. I mean all the dimensions and pathlengths are unique but hroar is his design.
I have a question you all may have experience with. I have 6.75 rear doors 6x9 front doors and 2.75 dash speakers. I’m going all cdt audio for the speakers (if you don’t know about cdt, now you do. You’re welcome.) questions is what would be best for clean clear soundstage? Coaxials in the doors or just bass? I’m thinking use the unity speakers in the dash to cover 300-50khz. how do you suspect it would muddy the imaging to have tweeters anywhere else? I’m thinking about not running any in the rear either.
There’s a few ‘ROARs’ out there and keeping the name (instead of just saying series qw resonators) out of respect for the Swedish guys that messed around with them and showed us interesting ideas
23 and 24 are type O and A paraflex, but scoot the exit down further and it’s ‘roar’ etc
If you make a big csa change (impedance change ) at the other side of the driver it creates a new resonator ?? . Pretty cool
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My knees don't have high frequency hearing capability, I doubt yours do either.
High frequency sound that would be described as "clean" or "clear" should have a direct path to your ears.
Reflections off a hard surface like a window can "mirror" the speaker's high frequency output.
The lack of any frequency or polar response charts on the CDT Audio website is not a good sign.
I'd expect the "wide band" aluminum cone/rubber surround CDT Audio Unity series high frequency range to beam like a flash light above ~4kHz, and have ragged frequency response.
Multiple beams past the two required to create a stereo image generally won't improve imaging, but can increase spacial ambience.
Additional spacial ambience is pretty much the opposite of a "clean clear soundstage".
Assuming the CDT Audio Unity could do 3mm excursion without garbling the HF beyond recognition, the 2" model could do ~100dB:
That's not much compared to your impulsive sub levels 😉
Art
lol I notice all sq vehicles have at the tweeters in the sails. bouncing the sound off the windshield is literally listening to early reflections and will be more diffused. Problem is I’m about to buy a new Nissan frontier and I don’t want to go chopping on it like I planned originally, and I want to use all the factory locations. All that said I’m not going to be shooting for 150db anymore but am going for a factory look sq system. I would consider putting these “unity” speakers in the sails.
I am really baffled by the idea that these speakers handle 150w crossed at 300hz. I’ve been very pleased with their products in the past.
I am really baffled by the idea that these speakers handle 150w crossed at 300hz. I’ve been very pleased with their products in the past.
I converted my front door 6x8 coaxials to 6.5" components.
I removed the 6x8's from the rear deck so the trunk can breathe and put 6.5" components on the rear doors.
Just midbass in the front doors if you are doing 300hz and up on the dash.