man im sitting here thinking on this. What are my goals for a good truck build after knowing what I know. First of all the sub I built has entirely too much output for my HOUSE. To get my mids and highs to match that level in my truck would be quite expensive and definitely damage my hearing. Second of all I really want something I can get in and out easily, not a huge box full of horn paths. And Id like something with a smooth response and good ir and gd. I mean 160db and hair tricks from a single 12 would certainly impress my friends, but that’s like a tiny portion of my experience with my system. No doubt, in my situation a sealed box is ideal. Resilient sounds sells an 18 that would get me well into the 140s with no gd, perfect ir and 3.5cf of airspace all for 365$. What do you guys think?
I think something like that second resonace in a mid sized suv (4runner/landcruissr) bit me in the butt a couple times? It was close to the second resonace in the 1/4 wave resonator (paraflex) and went crazy .
Nice idea to try and simulate the interior and potential standing waves, probably woulda saved me a few headaches and confusion in the past
Nice idea to try and simulate the interior and potential standing waves, probably woulda saved me a few headaches and confusion in the past
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lc1 will make the second resonance vary WILDLY. i put in some numbers that resemble my cabin but these frequencies could really move anywhere. the lower resonance stays low and loud no matter what. i dont know how my seats and other obstructions might affect it. the port velocity is my window. might get to have my cake AND eat it. this box will only be 18.5"x18.5"x23.5" and should really be impressive. once i get my electrical upgraded ill stab 6kw+ to it. 😈 also correct me if im wrong but these measurements should be at the port which is my window which is where my head is. id like to see how this translates.
Yeah, up to and including what we can observe in horn response by moving the driver to ~66.66cm in a 200cm ‘resonator’ ?
The way I look at it is set the sub to the mains and have basically zero distortion due to all that dynamic headroom, extremely low VC heat rise, which in turn it'll likely sound like a sealed alignment once EQ'd 'in situ'. Worst case you have to critically damp the vent/terminus.
That said, if a small, inexpensive sealed cab can actually get it done as you say to your satisfaction.............
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you forgot all this...
all of which come from a sealed box with proper woofer. not to mention tapped horns have higher distortion to begin with. the truth of it is vehicles are already a part of a higher order system which should be considered. the woofer i purchased is predicted to have a 10db/oct rolloff and an f3 of 38hz. cabin gain is generally +12db/oct which starts sooner depending on the size of the cabin and its narrowest point. while its good to have headroom, theres no point in throwing away clean gain. so if i can get to the desired spl with a smaller box and the same money then i cant find a problem with that, if i were to put the box i originally built in there it would render the backseat useless and i have to remove the entire front bench to get it in and out. it will be a while before i get the power i need to reach maximum output but when i do, i would be surprised if i couldnt hit 150db at any frequency in a tiny sealed box.
HERE is a video of the $365 woofer at XMECH.... the 15 i put in the hroar i built moves like this too which is why its so intense.
all of which come from a sealed box with proper woofer. not to mention tapped horns have higher distortion to begin with. the truth of it is vehicles are already a part of a higher order system which should be considered. the woofer i purchased is predicted to have a 10db/oct rolloff and an f3 of 38hz. cabin gain is generally +12db/oct which starts sooner depending on the size of the cabin and its narrowest point. while its good to have headroom, theres no point in throwing away clean gain. so if i can get to the desired spl with a smaller box and the same money then i cant find a problem with that, if i were to put the box i originally built in there it would render the backseat useless and i have to remove the entire front bench to get it in and out. it will be a while before i get the power i need to reach maximum output but when i do, i would be surprised if i couldnt hit 150db at any frequency in a tiny sealed box.
HERE is a video of the $365 woofer at XMECH.... the 15 i put in the hroar i built moves like this too which is why its so intense.
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I like a lot of bass no doubt but it all has to come together. the systems i see online with massive bp6s and multiple subs are just show cars. now i know there's no way i could actually stand music on those. and building this sub i have now has taught me a lot about those systems and what i want out of mine. if i could go back i would build the box smaller, with a smaller woofer. it would cost the same, but it would take up less space in my basement. and i wouldnt have to turn my amplifier knob to HALF for it to sound good. i could argue that i could make more powerful tops, but the system is capable enough for residential living. for my truck, i want it to simulate the KORN concert i went to recently which was absolutely visceral.
what brand of PA they used ? L' Acoustics ?
how many bass cabinets they had ....40 ?
Good question. I didn’t see how many bass cabs but it looks like their engineer prefers d&b speakers. I saw them in an arena and it’s the loudest concert I’ve ever been to. I had to take breaks.
I used to measure the electrical impedance with the dats in car but too much of a PITA to get laptop and extension cord out to the driveway for me after measuring junk in the garage first (I dropped laptop and broke screen, battery is toast, etc)
I hear you there. The best way is to run tones through your system and chase down any noises. Start low and Use ear protection*. neoprene foam is good for decoupling panels. butyl rubber for dampening sheet metal or even plastic panels
I really wanna see how the paraflex and roar change in the ‘car’ (multiple resonances to potentially join a cabin resonace and go nuts, or not) …I have a 4 door Tacoma I could get them in the backseat of. Laptop battery is frustrating though
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I think hoqw designs resonate outside surfaces more because they amplify harmonic distortion and couples to the outside air impedance. But I really don’t know. Maybe my sealed box won’t resonate so much **** in my truck? lol btw if anyones interested in the list of stuff Ive got to purchase for my truck this is it. High output alternator, lithium battery bank, Pi5, dac8x, stinger mt600.4, stinger mt4000.1, 4 10” midbasses, compression drivers, 3.5” coaxial speakers and single channel amp boards for the dash, all the various wires and interconnects. Quite a list. I have a head unit I can use for now, but I’m going with the pi5 because I want to create fir convolution inversions with built in crossovers for each channel. All this to say it’s going to be a while. Apparently I also have to have my TIPM rebuilt in my ram 1500. Oh and tires :/ priorities and ****…
Camilladsp. Right now I’ve been creating them in rew. But eventually I’ll probably purchase eclipse or accorate. Idk which is best yet.