Probably an optical illusion, but the board appears to be askew on the heatsink. Wouldn't the template help to get things lined up straight?
That is a scrap piece of aluminum being used as a jig and not a heatsink. As such I don't have any concerns if it is askew. On a heatsink I would take care to align it properly.
Seems getting a jig properly aligned would be even more important since errors tend to amplify. Aligning the jig onto the heatsink would be much more difficult with skewed boarders. Sorry, I did layout for years. My mind is skewed. 😀
The jig is not intended to assist with preparing the heat sink, just with the assembly of the electronics. I would print another template and punch and drill it in a separate operation.
Sorry if I wasn't clear in my suggestion for making assembly easier. Seems I've had the opposite effect 🙁.
Sorry if I wasn't clear in my suggestion for making assembly easier. Seems I've had the opposite effect 🙁.
Lol,
Sorry, I made assumptions. I thought the jig was to be used for both.
How do you create the printout?
Sorry, I made assumptions. I thought the jig was to be used for both.
How do you create the printout?
Terry,
I'm with you if I was going to do a drill jig I would use some sort of alignment pins and some drill bushings if I was going to do serial production or just set up a cnc program with a fixture.
I'm with you if I was going to do a drill jig I would use some sort of alignment pins and some drill bushings if I was going to do serial production or just set up a cnc program with a fixture.
I use a 2-D CAD program, Qcad, for laying out templates and such. It is cheap to buy the full version (or at least it was, haven't checked in a while) and there is a 'free' version that does almost everything that the full version does as well.
Serial production is something totally different. Most of us will only need to prep a pair of heat sinks, so a paper template, a centre punch and a drill press will serve most quite nicely.
Now getting over 10 pieces makes doing something more elaborate reasonable.
This is probably just me, but if I am going to the trouble of drilling and tapping a jig for aligning the transistors, I would want to use that same jig for aligning the holes in my heatsink.
Thanks for the print template Jason. I'm going to make a template. I hate it when I get done and the outputs aren't exactly straight.
Blessings, Terry
Thanks for the print template Jason. I'm going to make a template. I hate it when I get done and the outputs aren't exactly straight.
Blessings, Terry
Your right Jason.
I just have to plan for a production application. More than likely it will be cnc as I have to machine holes for the mounting of the heat sink and the output devices.
I just have to plan for a production application. More than likely it will be cnc as I have to machine holes for the mounting of the heat sink and the output devices.
Boys and girls here is Gnome V1.3!
Nice ! Good to see the spacing in real life (I allowed more).
You DO need to have a higher wattage FB resistor( R17).
OS
i use a 1/16 inch thick cardboard as drilling template using Jason's template printed on a bond paper and then pasted onto the thick board..
a pointed tool such as a pin to make indents on the cross-hairs, and then start drilling with a 1mm drill on the template thence to the heatsink, no need to drill all the way thru, just enough to make a deep indent...
you can then proceed to drill to desired hole diameter....
btw, this is also how i do 1 off board runs...and most of what i do are 1 offs..... 😀
Boys and girls here is Gnome V1.3!
To make you happy .... If you only have 1u for the servo caps (C10/11)
(you have some mounted below) , increase R26-27 to 1meg.
With 1meg/1uf = .37hz Fc , still good to go.
OS
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OS, thanks for all.Especialy thanks for your investigations.
This is a weekend try ,not a final board.
I couldn't wait for all recommended parts.
Regards.
Thimios
This is a weekend try ,not a final board.
I couldn't wait for all recommended parts.
Regards.
Thimios
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Gnome V1.3 first try.Some resistors must be changed values ,my opinion.
OS, here you are the Boss.😉
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Hi Thimios,
you're so fast 🙂
I'm too slow to build, even my OPS boards not full stuffed yet...
(some larger parts can't fit on the board)
I think I should try this Gnome first 😀
tomorrow will be "Silence Day" in my Island, so no activities 😀
you're so fast 🙂
I'm too slow to build, even my OPS boards not full stuffed yet...
(some larger parts can't fit on the board)
I think I should try this Gnome first 😀
tomorrow will be "Silence Day" in my Island, so no activities 😀
Some resistors must be changed values ,my opinion.
OS, here you are the Boss.😉
Yes , maybe 680-820R for R13/16. With the new trimmers , R5/R10 ....
If you make the "safety" resistors small (R6/9 - 330R) , R5/10 should
give you a wide range of input device current allowing you to set your VAS
current perfectly ! 😎
Good to see the .5mv servo controlled DC value !
Also , with the trimmers , feel free to bias those VAS leds to taste
( 33k - 68k).
PS - I design at 70-85V , you build at 40-50V .... so , there will be some
variation (R11-12 -zener regs.)
Good work !!
OS