Scott,
You should know by now that I don't do that... My ears are not your ears, my speakers are not your speakers, room, turntable, cartridge, etc... and that's just equipment before we get into musical taste and what makes a system really work for me... So I'm always hesitant to do so.
Generally if I like something, I say so, but if I don't like something, I don't really talk about it much...
(Now I will talk about the sound of the Firstwatt amps because they are 1) all good, and 2) do, in fact, have different sonic signatures, however, it's always in reference to where is said Firstwatt amp on the arbitrary and made-up scale that has the Aleph at one end and F5 at the other...)
But, as for Phono -
In no particular order I've built and/or had;
Dynaco SCA35
VanAlstine Omega
Meridian 101
Hafler DH110
Quad 34
Quad 44
Steve Bench RIAA 5
Pass Pearl 1
Pass Pearl 2
Pass XP-17
Conrad-Johnson PV3
Elliott Sound Labs P06
Hagerman Bugle 2
Muffsy Phono Preamp
Salas FSP
Millett LR phono
And I feel that I'm forgetting something, but it's not coming to me at the moment.
Anyway, with all that in mind, please re-read post #19,418.
You should know by now that I don't do that... My ears are not your ears, my speakers are not your speakers, room, turntable, cartridge, etc... and that's just equipment before we get into musical taste and what makes a system really work for me... So I'm always hesitant to do so.
Generally if I like something, I say so, but if I don't like something, I don't really talk about it much...
(Now I will talk about the sound of the Firstwatt amps because they are 1) all good, and 2) do, in fact, have different sonic signatures, however, it's always in reference to where is said Firstwatt amp on the arbitrary and made-up scale that has the Aleph at one end and F5 at the other...)
But, as for Phono -
In no particular order I've built and/or had;
Dynaco SCA35
VanAlstine Omega
Meridian 101
Hafler DH110
Quad 34
Quad 44
Steve Bench RIAA 5
Pass Pearl 1
Pass Pearl 2
Pass XP-17
Conrad-Johnson PV3
Elliott Sound Labs P06
Hagerman Bugle 2
Muffsy Phono Preamp
Salas FSP
Millett LR phono
And I feel that I'm forgetting something, but it's not coming to me at the moment.
Anyway, with all that in mind, please re-read post #19,418.
UFSP version was made to be flexible vs FSP regarding multiple gain settings. Due to that its differently sorted out in layout. Has a newer companion shunt regulator as well (V1.3S). Builders of both report that UFSP also offers a bit upgraded sound. Lets see if you will also hear something towards that or not.
Hopefully not too off topic,
I would like to have a FSP design optimized for both MM/MC and DS audio cart (Merry Christmas to all!).
Here is the ds audio latest docs for public design,
https://ds-audio-w.biz/cms/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/Technical-information20221212_c.pdf
I just modified my tube LCR phono for DS-E1, single best pentode stage of 40X using transformer output (4.5:1), since L/R are out of phase per design.
Attachments
Don, I love that our setups are so similar (J2s in yet?
). I do agree with 6L6 and his optical cart opinion and cost/vs subjectivness of goodness therein. Try a Hana ML in your system if you haven't. Of course I'm running 2 arms at the moment FSP + SUT (2 varieties) on one arm and Ultra on the other arm. I've balanced out a few carts for easy swapping and eval on both arms.Happy holidays to all you audio nuts.
The cost of cartridge itself is not too bad with a diy equalizer. A friend prefers 003 over VDH crimson.Don, I love that our setups are so similar (J2s in yet?
Happy holidays to all you audio nuts.
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Re the J2's. Building 2. (Not gunna be like guitar amps). Long skinny and Zen Mod. Waiting for parts. Zen Mods boards and Modushop Monoblocks. I can put just about anything in the Monoblocks. Thank you for all your work on the Monoblocks. Not sure why the diy store doesn't carry them but that's another topic. And, this post is off topic.Don, I love that our setups are so similar (J2s in yet?
Happy holidays to all you audio nuts.
Sorry. Out. Merry Christmas everybody.
crossposting this here because it's probably better than the group buy thread:
I've collected most of the necessary items and I'm about to start building tape head pre with these boards. Salas had posted some tape head circuits here: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/preamp-for-reel-to-reel.222113/#post-3213006 Those circuits use 2sk170s for the first stage amplification and the ufsp uses 2sk369. Is someone able to calculate the db gain of the tape head circuits so I can set the proper gain in the ufsp? Or, better yet, provide a description on how to calculate the value?
I've collected most of the necessary items and I'm about to start building tape head pre with these boards. Salas had posted some tape head circuits here: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/preamp-for-reel-to-reel.222113/#post-3213006 Those circuits use 2sk170s for the first stage amplification and the ufsp uses 2sk369. Is someone able to calculate the db gain of the tape head circuits so I can set the proper gain in the ufsp? Or, better yet, provide a description on how to calculate the value?
There are enough gain steps in the switches to somehow set it near useful amplification levels I guess. Some tweaking is going to eventually be needed anyway because it was a theoretical curves approach back then plus you attempt to migrate it over to another alike but not same config. Good luck and let us know the outcome.
Hi all, I am going to build the UFSP (actually two units). Already a happy FSP camper playing with a Hana ML as my daily driver.
I had bought the boards, minikits, transformers about 2 years ago, but didn't find the time to proceed with the project. I was looking at the BOM to gather the rest of the parts and found out that the rectifiers for the raw psu seem to be no longer available (512-FFPF30UP20STU). What is a suitable substitute? Btw, just to cure my curiosity, they seem hugely overrated at 30A, 200V. Is this choice made to avoid using heatsinks?
Also for C2A in UBiB, I cannot find the suggested Panasonic. If targeting for low ESR alternatives, is 85C rating acceptable for this capacitor position?
I had bought the boards, minikits, transformers about 2 years ago, but didn't find the time to proceed with the project. I was looking at the BOM to gather the rest of the parts and found out that the rectifiers for the raw psu seem to be no longer available (512-FFPF30UP20STU). What is a suitable substitute? Btw, just to cure my curiosity, they seem hugely overrated at 30A, 200V. Is this choice made to avoid using heatsinks?
Also for C2A in UBiB, I cannot find the suggested Panasonic. If targeting for low ESR alternatives, is 85C rating acceptable for this capacitor position?
Hi, the rectifier diodes can be fast & soft type. For reduced EMI. Like a Hexfred HFA08TB60 for example.
The ones in kits BOM were tried performance shared stock between heavier PSU projects I believe. With nice plastic encapsulation.
For C2A alternative 85C types are also welcome. Keep to the original capacitor's diameter for easy fitting.
The ones in kits BOM were tried performance shared stock between heavier PSU projects I believe. With nice plastic encapsulation.
For C2A alternative 85C types are also welcome. Keep to the original capacitor's diameter for easy fitting.
Thanks! Thinking of combining one of the units with DCG3. One case including UFSP, DCG3, iSelect and possible a remote controlled motor driven pot and one case PSU with 4 or 5 transformers, raw PSU. Given that I manage to think of a reasonable layout, Is there going to be any issue regarding noise in the UFSP due to the low AC feeding the DCSTBs?
The DCG3 is going to be used as a headphone amp, at least in the beginning. But I would like to be able to use the combined UFSP with the main system too. Since the gain provided by the DCG3 will probably be too much for the tube integrated (Unison Research S8), is it possible in DCG3 to have an RCA output connected permanently parallel to the iSelect output to create a bypass? Or should I employ a switch there and select either volume pot or bypass, one at a time?
The DCG3 is going to be used as a headphone amp, at least in the beginning. But I would like to be able to use the combined UFSP with the main system too. Since the gain provided by the DCG3 will probably be too much for the tube integrated (Unison Research S8), is it possible in DCG3 to have an RCA output connected permanently parallel to the iSelect output to create a bypass? Or should I employ a switch there and select either volume pot or bypass, one at a time?
There could be a small issue if the AC DCSTB power cables will not be carefully tacked away as far as possible from the UFSP signal input. Especially when set for max MC mode gain.
Better have a switch to can select the full or bypass route. To avoid stages interaction that usually brings extra THD.
Better have a switch to can select the full or bypass route. To avoid stages interaction that usually brings extra THD.
Checking-in in this topic.
Planning on building the salas preamp. Signed up for the next batch of PCB's from teabag. Slowly preparing the build (reading through the build guide several times) and the partlist at the moment. Some questions about parts since some parts are harder to find or im not completely sure about some parts:
- For the R1 and R17 suggested foil resistor (and Rx positions if wanted). I can choose from different series of vishay foil bulk resistors; VTA50-serie, VSR, RNC90Y, VSH & VSC, RS92N, RCK02=S102J, S102C, S102K & S102L, Z201. Series in order of expense (Z201 most expensive). Is for instance a VSR also enough, being 1/3 of the price of a Z201.
- For elec caps i can choose mundorf AG, which are probably the best option but also most expensive. Other option is Arcotronics/Kemet. Also can go for nichicon KG or KW, but i only can find the 50V rated instead of 63V. Looking at the voltages 50V should be ok, but a little too close maybe. Will it make a big difference between mundorf and kemet? Mundorf are rated more hours, but will it make a big difference in performance?
- The 15nF cap, the closest i can find is a Siemens KP polyprop cap with a tolerance of 2,5%. Bypassing it with a wima fkp 220pf cap.
This is it for now, but im sure more questions will rise when the build gets further. Thanks in advance for helping out!
Planning on building the salas preamp. Signed up for the next batch of PCB's from teabag. Slowly preparing the build (reading through the build guide several times) and the partlist at the moment. Some questions about parts since some parts are harder to find or im not completely sure about some parts:
- For the R1 and R17 suggested foil resistor (and Rx positions if wanted). I can choose from different series of vishay foil bulk resistors; VTA50-serie, VSR, RNC90Y, VSH & VSC, RS92N, RCK02=S102J, S102C, S102K & S102L, Z201. Series in order of expense (Z201 most expensive). Is for instance a VSR also enough, being 1/3 of the price of a Z201.
- For elec caps i can choose mundorf AG, which are probably the best option but also most expensive. Other option is Arcotronics/Kemet. Also can go for nichicon KG or KW, but i only can find the 50V rated instead of 63V. Looking at the voltages 50V should be ok, but a little too close maybe. Will it make a big difference between mundorf and kemet? Mundorf are rated more hours, but will it make a big difference in performance?
- The 15nF cap, the closest i can find is a Siemens KP polyprop cap with a tolerance of 2,5%. Bypassing it with a wima fkp 220pf cap.
This is it for now, but im sure more questions will rise when the build gets further. Thanks in advance for helping out!
-VSR is no slouch.
-50V for the reservoir electrolytics is enough if the raw dc will not be >45V. To make sure use no higher than nominally 30VAC secondary transformer.
-Buy 330pF also to test. Although most ended up choosing 220pF that's objectively bit brighter in frequency response. Combines subjectively better to most tastes and systems with the mainly second harmonic THD profile of this phono can be an explanation. Still, its good having two different values to can also personally compare in the context of your own system and taste.
-50V for the reservoir electrolytics is enough if the raw dc will not be >45V. To make sure use no higher than nominally 30VAC secondary transformer.
-Buy 330pF also to test. Although most ended up choosing 220pF that's objectively bit brighter in frequency response. Combines subjectively better to most tastes and systems with the mainly second harmonic THD profile of this phono can be an explanation. Still, its good having two different values to can also personally compare in the context of your own system and taste.