Yes, you can and Dexa UWB 5V 650mA is more than enough, but you need to twist OUT with GND as you can see in below picture.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Shiga MKII miniregs follow LM1117 or LT1806 pin-out scheme, while Dexa UWB follow LM7805.
Regards,
Tibi
PS. Anyone interested in miniregs may drop me a mail and shipping will be made via mail envelope at 8euro worldwide.
Update
Finally got some time to have another look at this and to my astonishment found that the fix was relatively simple
1) looks like I made a solder bridge across 2 pins of the vicol supereg at V3
2) connection on +ve end of C8 had broken
Listening to sweet music as I write!!
A full recovery. Now I will now have a spare Shiga Black to pass on to a sibling
Best
This is timely info. I just ordered some of these Dexa UWB as Partsconnex are currently selling them out as 57% discount to make way for the new version.
I recently picked up a basic Shiga2 kit from Tibi which i received the other week. Really looking forward to trying out the alternative philosophy - minimalist, no digital filter, low inertia and momentum CD drive, great digital PSU, and tuned SPDIF output. I currently use a VRDS25, but i just want this as a daily driver and it's a lot smaller/lighter.
I had no idea what to expect, i actually thought i was going to get blank PCB's. I guess that's why it took so long to ship. Didn't know they were made to order.
I decided i was gonna spend about a hundred fity bucks to step up from the basic kit. First thing was to make a relatively modest order from mouser and digikey then tear most of it apart and so i could rebuild it. Desoldering is not my thing...i had a close call.
I rebuilt the PSU first. 1086LT reg IC, schottkys, mundorf, silver mica, tantalum.
Miniregs on V3 V4, LT1086-5 for V1 V2, Tent Labs XO, Mica C11, some Tantalum and organic caps, Vishay Foil SPDIF Dividers
Rebuilding and upgrading of the Driver board To be Continued.
I had no idea what to expect, i actually thought i was going to get blank PCB's. I guess that's why it took so long to ship. Didn't know they were made to order.
I decided i was gonna spend about a hundred fity bucks to step up from the basic kit. First thing was to make a relatively modest order from mouser and digikey then tear most of it apart and so i could rebuild it. Desoldering is not my thing...i had a close call.
I rebuilt the PSU first. 1086LT reg IC, schottkys, mundorf, silver mica, tantalum.
Miniregs on V3 V4, LT1086-5 for V1 V2, Tent Labs XO, Mica C11, some Tantalum and organic caps, Vishay Foil SPDIF Dividers
Rebuilding and upgrading of the Driver board To be Continued.
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Upgrading of the Driver board
I tanted up everything...maybe i shouldve done C13 too.
Vishay Metal Foils on R49, R48
Added L8, Removed L9 and L5 for the Tent Xo
Socketed V1,2,3,4
Waiting on my Tent Xo to come from netherlands and another mundorf evo cap for C8. I have lots of experience with the regular evo oil cap in audio path (used in my torpedo3 amp and my DG300b amp) so i think i'll be happy with it here plus its very reasonably priced. I don't feel the need to stick a Jantzen Silver in there.
Next will install the 0.1uF Film Cap (MKP1837) on the laser
Questions:
Q1, the middle pin (pin2) on mine came rearranged as pin 3. I haven't seen anyone else's like that. See pics above.
In order to use LT1086-5 on V1 and V2, do i just need to remove L2 and L3?
I tanted up everything...maybe i shouldve done C13 too.
Vishay Metal Foils on R49, R48
Added L8, Removed L9 and L5 for the Tent Xo
Socketed V1,2,3,4
Waiting on my Tent Xo to come from netherlands and another mundorf evo cap for C8. I have lots of experience with the regular evo oil cap in audio path (used in my torpedo3 amp and my DG300b amp) so i think i'll be happy with it here plus its very reasonably priced. I don't feel the need to stick a Jantzen Silver in there.
Next will install the 0.1uF Film Cap (MKP1837) on the laser
Questions:
Q1, the middle pin (pin2) on mine came rearranged as pin 3. I haven't seen anyone else's like that. See pics above.
In order to use LT1086-5 on V1 and V2, do i just need to remove L2 and L3?
Hi Tibi,
I've a pecuiliar problem with my transport.
Sometimes the laser on my cd mechanism sort of makes a back and forth movement with some spinning/flapping noise while playing tracks as if the tracks on disc were in oval shape. When this happens it skips a track for a fraction of a second and resumes back.At max the skipping happens 2 or 3 times for whole disk and sometimes it plays fine silently without any issue.
Any idea what coupd be wrong?
I've a pecuiliar problem with my transport.
Sometimes the laser on my cd mechanism sort of makes a back and forth movement with some spinning/flapping noise while playing tracks as if the tracks on disc were in oval shape. When this happens it skips a track for a fraction of a second and resumes back.At max the skipping happens 2 or 3 times for whole disk and sometimes it plays fine silently without any issue.
Any idea what coupd be wrong?
Yes, for V1 and V2 you need to remove L2 and L3 and add a wire from input +8V to V1 and V2 pad's.
Another mod that count is to add an 1nF silver-mica across C19.
For Q1 are two possible transistors 2N608NF and 2N4403. On
2N608NF two pins are twisted.
Regards,
Tibi
I need to see how you have implemented Shiga MKII. Please provide some detailed pictures.
Regards,
Tibi
Thanks for quick reply. My mechanism was a very old one which was in storage for 4 - 5 years. Looks like the cd spinning motor is not rotating smoothly (making whining noise) and sliding/ plastic gears grease got dried out.
I installed a new mechanism and it was working fine.
BTW how to lube the cd spinning motor shaft? Any inputs?
Installed V1 & V2 using LT1085-6, removed L2 & L3 added 47uF tantalum and ground wires and its sounding even better! The imaging is solid, better definition of instruments. I wonder what effect a super clock would do! I'm impressed now. Compared with my MHZS CD88 used as a transport, the music is not stuck inside the speakers but now the soundstage is floating beyond the speaker width. My dac is a NOS 16 paralleled DAC TDA 1543. Many thanks Tibi!
Anyone remember which post the diagram of the mechanism is attached to? I've down a thread search but not been able to find it.
I'm after spindle heights, clearances of the laser etc.
I have the drawing of the top plate showing the keyhole cutout and mounting hole distances but I am after something that gives the side view and vertical dimensions.
Thanks
Or do I remember it from the Shigaclone thread? I'll look there
I'm after spindle heights, clearances of the laser etc.
I have the drawing of the top plate showing the keyhole cutout and mounting hole distances but I am after something that gives the side view and vertical dimensions.
Thanks
Or do I remember it from the Shigaclone thread? I'll look there
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