Cheers Clayton...
well custom springs means what it says. After finishing the aluminum block and screwing the transport onto it, a friend of mine working at university checked (on an, for me absolutely unknown device) how the rotational forces of the spinning CD are working on the block in all axis to prevent micro vibrations from the drive when packed into the case in sandwich style. We then calculated the specifications of each spring at each corner to keep the drive at ideal balance during operation. Hardest part was to find a manufacturer to make a total of 8 physically similar but different springs
Wasn't that cheap though and might be a lot of over engineering but hey, how many times you build your own CD transport?
Cheers,
Fabian
well custom springs means what it says. After finishing the aluminum block and screwing the transport onto it, a friend of mine working at university checked (on an, for me absolutely unknown device) how the rotational forces of the spinning CD are working on the block in all axis to prevent micro vibrations from the drive when packed into the case in sandwich style. We then calculated the specifications of each spring at each corner to keep the drive at ideal balance during operation. Hardest part was to find a manufacturer to make a total of 8 physically similar but different springs
Wasn't that cheap though and might be a lot of over engineering but hey, how many times you build your own CD transport? Cheers,
Fabian
Cheers Clayton...
well custom springs means what it says. After finishing the aluminum block and screwing the transport onto it, a friend of mine working at university checked (on an, for me absolutely unknown device) how the rotational forces of the spinning CD are working on the block in all axis to prevent micro vibrations from the drive when packed into the case in sandwich style. We then calculated the specifications of each spring at each corner to keep the drive at ideal balance during operation. Hardest part was to find a manufacturer to make a total of 8 physically similar but different springs
Cheers,
Fabian
Yes... well... you can't get much more custom than that! the lengths some people go!
simply jealous. I know I keep voting to go the extra mile with this building a cd player malarky because I sure as hell am only going to do it once so I want it to be right and I want it to last. So I agree with your attitude.Any others with suggestions for suspension that is perhaps a bit less exotic?
Hi Tibi,
I found an old version SF-P101 16PIN. Am I correct that this unit already sounds better without mods than the new SF-P101N without mods? Planning to apply the mods and reading the threads over and over I'am still confused. In order to place Vishay 1837 100nF on the back, dit you cut out some of the plastic surroundings? In addition can please specify again position and value(manufactors product numbers) of the caps on the bottem. As for the SF-P101 the position is different to the SF-P101N. If possible sent detailed pictures of the placement. Thanks in advance.
Robert
I found an old version SF-P101 16PIN. Am I correct that this unit already sounds better without mods than the new SF-P101N without mods? Planning to apply the mods and reading the threads over and over I'am still confused. In order to place Vishay 1837 100nF on the back, dit you cut out some of the plastic surroundings? In addition can please specify again position and value(manufactors product numbers) of the caps on the bottem. As for the SF-P101 the position is different to the SF-P101N. If possible sent detailed pictures of the placement. Thanks in advance.
Robert
Old version do not sound better, but it may be an original Sanyo and are constructed a little more robust.
Personally I found that many new units sound and perform excellent. Protect your CD transport from smoke and dust than you'll enjoy Shiga for many years.
You need to solder the caps on that flexible pcb and indeed is a very delicate operation. Unfortunately I do not have an old SFP101N to show you which cap to solder and where. However, the caps must decouple PIN Vcc with Vishay 1837 100nF and 2.5V reference with 100nF Arcotronics.
Regrads,
Tibi
V1 to V4 are input points for low noise regulators (not output).
If you use separate regulators for for these 4 sections than I recommend you to use 5V PSU connected to output holes.
Regards,
Tibi
Robert,
I'm not sure which connectors are you looking for.
Shiga MKII BOM is available trough my website and from there you may get the info you need.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1FogFZ58apHnCJsWfBXM4zt159Sf8wzLdwYX_SAI8zxs/edit#gid=0
Regards,
Tibi
Robert I have done this modification. The pitch is 0.1" (2.54mm) and you will need a 6 pin header. Becareful removing the 6 jumpers between the LCD board and Command board as I found it was easy to lift the trace off the board when desoldering!
Regards
tom
Thanks Tom for picking up ! I thought Robert is referring to 18 wire ribbon cable.
Regards,
Tibi
Robert these are generic parts which you can obtain from your local electronics store. I'm in Australia but I can give you the part numbers but you will have to go online to an Australian website and pay shipping. I'm sure you can obtain them locally but failing that I can give you the details. I used a vertical header (not a 90 one) and a socket with ribbon cable.
Regards
Tom
Return stock crystal
Evening Tibi
I had a disaster with my Dexa clock and am now worried about the downstream effects on the Shiga.
Lars is helping me with the Psu for the clock (somehow the trafo cooked itself - Possible faulty diode?). But once the Psu is fixed I am sure there may be other faults as I suspect there were quite a few volts going where they shouldn't.
Just before I turned it off I noticed the Shiga display was showing "AR" - is this an error code or just random cells on the LCD turned on due to irregularities in the power?
I am not convinced that the new Psu that Lars is sending is going to remedy the problem. So In the meantime I want to return the stock crystal to the Shiga to test it. Can you please confirm what to put back in C57/C58 - 8pf MLCC 1206 right?
Thanks
Evening Tibi
I had a disaster with my Dexa clock and am now worried about the downstream effects on the Shiga.
Lars is helping me with the Psu for the clock (somehow the trafo cooked itself - Possible faulty diode?). But once the Psu is fixed I am sure there may be other faults as I suspect there were quite a few volts going where they shouldn't.
Just before I turned it off I noticed the Shiga display was showing "AR" - is this an error code or just random cells on the LCD turned on due to irregularities in the power?
I am not convinced that the new Psu that Lars is sending is going to remedy the problem. So In the meantime I want to return the stock crystal to the Shiga to test it. Can you please confirm what to put back in C57/C58 - 8pf MLCC 1206 right?
Thanks
Return stock crystal
Evening Tibi
I had a disaster with my Dexa clock and am now worried about the downstream effects on the Shiga.
Lars is helping me with the Psu for the clock (somehow the trafo cooked itself - Possible faulty diode?). But once the Psu is fixed I am sure there may be other faults as I suspect there were quite a few volts going where they shouldn't.
Just before I turned it off I noticed the Shiga display was showing "AR" - is this an error code or just random cells on the LCD turned on due to irregularities in the power?
I am not convinced that the new Psu that Lars is sending is going to remedy the problem. So In the meantime I want to return the stock crystal to the Shiga to test it. Can you please confirm what to put back in C57/C58 - 8pf MLCC 1206 right?
Thanks
(Looks like this value/size Smd is not readily available - I notice some of the product codes on BOM direct to 8.2pf so figure this would be ok - can other size Smd fit on those pads?)
Evening Tibi
I had a disaster with my Dexa clock and am now worried about the downstream effects on the Shiga.
Lars is helping me with the Psu for the clock (somehow the trafo cooked itself - Possible faulty diode?). But once the Psu is fixed I am sure there may be other faults as I suspect there were quite a few volts going where they shouldn't.
Just before I turned it off I noticed the Shiga display was showing "AR" - is this an error code or just random cells on the LCD turned on due to irregularities in the power?
I am not convinced that the new Psu that Lars is sending is going to remedy the problem. So In the meantime I want to return the stock crystal to the Shiga to test it. Can you please confirm what to put back in C57/C58 - 8pf MLCC 1206 right?
Thanks
(Looks like this value/size Smd is not readily available - I notice some of the product codes on BOM direct to 8.2pf so figure this would be ok - can other size Smd fit on those pads?)
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Evening sthcoaster,
I do not see how Dexa clock may affect Shiga unless there was primary-secondary break. If is the case, than Shiga's LC78601 may be damaged, other parts as well.
That AR on display may indicate a LC78601 failure. Even without clock display should indicate 00.
To put the clock back, you need Crystal and C57 C58. You may leave R47 in place as will not affect operation.
Good luck !
Brgds,
Tibi
I do not see how Dexa clock may affect Shiga unless there was primary-secondary break. If is the case, than Shiga's LC78601 may be damaged, other parts as well.
That AR on display may indicate a LC78601 failure. Even without clock display should indicate 00.
To put the clock back, you need Crystal and C57 C58. You may leave R47 in place as will not affect operation.
Good luck !
Brgds,
Tibi
That doesn't sound good. It lights but there is no display with the clock disconnected.
Thanks - I'll need the luck
Will be reporting back once 1) the new clock psu arrives 2) I've checked the shiga with stock
not happy
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