Hi Tibi,
V1 and V2 are in like the picture. The pin marked IN on the belleson regulator corresponds to pin 3 in the picture. It has the common pad next to it to put voltage (12v from outboard supply). Center pin marked 2 in picture is output, and pin 1 is grnd, which is common with pin 1 on J2, where the input voltage returns go for V1 and V2 power.
Now forget about V1 and V2. Lets just say they are in correctly. What would cause the Cd mechanics to run all the way out to the end and try to keep going when powered up? I'm thinking its a problem with the motor cable. Although it is a new cable. I'll check it out tomorrow. What do you think.
V1 and V2 are in like the picture. The pin marked IN on the belleson regulator corresponds to pin 3 in the picture. It has the common pad next to it to put voltage (12v from outboard supply). Center pin marked 2 in picture is output, and pin 1 is grnd, which is common with pin 1 on J2, where the input voltage returns go for V1 and V2 power.
Now forget about V1 and V2. Lets just say they are in correctly. What would cause the Cd mechanics to run all the way out to the end and try to keep going when powered up? I'm thinking its a problem with the motor cable. Although it is a new cable. I'll check it out tomorrow. What do you think.
It is more a ribbon cable issue - bad contacts or ribbon cable improperly inserted. Same behaviour is when distance between turntable and laser is altered or another broken part ...
Use your phone camera and see if laser turns on while TOC reading.
Regards,
Tibi
DT,
LM317 is not the regulator I have recommended. The performance you'll get have nothing to do with Shiga MKII.
Main voltage is limited by LA6541, who is able to work between 6 and 13V. In this case voltage is limited only by power dissipated by LA6541.
With 120R and 680R you'll get ~8.5V which is also OK.
Regards,
Tibi
LM317 is not the regulator I have recommended. The performance you'll get have nothing to do with Shiga MKII.
Main voltage is limited by LA6541, who is able to work between 6 and 13V. In this case voltage is limited only by power dissipated by LA6541.
With 120R and 680R you'll get ~8.5V which is also OK.
Regards,
Tibi
There is no LT1086 with fixed 8V.
You can get LT1086 with fixed 12V, but power dissipated by LA6541 will be to big and you need to install a proper heatsink.
I suggest you to go for LT1086-Adj and use 120&680R. You'll get 8.51V which is perfect.
Regards,
Tibi
Tibi,
I never get to read TOC. Power off. No CD on transport. Turn on power, Laser moves all the way out and tries to keep going until power is turned off.???
Tony G
Tibi,
This dinosaur doesn't have a camera phone. Will it show with a regular digital camera? I looked with it and didn't see any laser. I disconnected power to V1 and V2, They are still soldered in, and put L2 and L3 back in, to get back to where I was before new problem. I found broken wire on motor cable. Fixed it, but problem persists.
I buzzed connections from where connector solders to brd between Cd machanics and main brd, and push button brd and main brd, and have all continuity.
Symptoms the same. Power on with or without CD in place and laser moves as far out as it can and tries to keep going until power is turned off. I checked with a magnifier for broken patrs, but don't see any. I have been extra careful since I got the brd back.
Any suggestions? Thank you. I have everything ready to install into chassis, but I am starting to get disillusioned with this project. Besides having a bunch of money tied up in this project, if I didn't know how wonderful this transport sounds when working I would be just about ready to give up. Everything seems so delicate. And I have been doing electronic assembly for the past 40 years until I retired last year.
Tony G.
Tony,
To help you I need a little support from you.
I need high resolution, high clarity pictures. Use macro option in your camera. Pictures must be on pair with these made with my phone camera http://vicol-audio.ro/img/shiga-mkII/shiga-mkII_bot_det.jpg
http://vicol-audio.ro/img/shiga-mkII/shiga-mkII_top_det.jpg
I need to see CD inner axe as well.
On other hand, this is a SMD board, parts are small, you need to handle with care.
Regards,
Tibi
Change display
Hi,
I am going to build Shigaclone MKII, and I want to blend it in with my other hifi..
In my DAC I use the Oled NHD-0216SZW-BG5 display and my question is...
Will this work for the Shigaclone?
http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/291/NHD-0216SZW-BG5-36086.pdf
Hi,
I am going to build Shigaclone MKII, and I want to blend it in with my other hifi..
In my DAC I use the Oled NHD-0216SZW-BG5 display and my question is...
Will this work for the Shigaclone?
http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/291/NHD-0216SZW-BG5-36086.pdf
Ribbon cable are new premade from Tibi, One wire did break, So I'm waiting on new ones now. In the mean time, as soon as I get my camera back, I will dismount the brd, give it a good cleaning, then inspect it under a microscope, and then take photos to send to Tibi, if I don't find anything obvious. Got a lot going on, so I probably won't get back to it until Sunday. Let you all know if I find anything after cleaning and inspection under microscope.
Guarnera,
I had so many problems with the connectors and leads that in the end I got rid of the problem by directly soldering most of the wires.
I found each time I reconnected the components, I got a different problem due to a poor connection or a whisker shorting out the plug under the heatshrink. This got very frustrating after a while. Since I soldered directly I have had no further repeats.
Aleks
I had so many problems with the connectors and leads that in the end I got rid of the problem by directly soldering most of the wires.
I found each time I reconnected the components, I got a different problem due to a poor connection or a whisker shorting out the plug under the heatshrink. This got very frustrating after a while. Since I soldered directly I have had no further repeats.
Aleks
No, you can not use NHD-0216SZW-BG5 or any other display LED, LCD, OLED etc.
Shiga MKII make use of a custom made multiplexed matrix display. This was largely discussed in the Shiga main thread.
Beside that segments are multiplexed in a matrix manner, LC78601 is using a "three state" signaling, where each segment is driven on 0V, 2.5V and 5V. A segment can be in ON state either 2.5V or 5V and in OFF state on 0V or 2.5V.
The logic on implementing such multiplexing was to extend LCD lifetime.
Regards,
Tibi