I am sorry if this has been posted before but I have to ask would the Satori be ok used as a mid in a MTMWW?
I only ask because maybe it is better as a mid and woofer instead of just mid. I was looking at possibly doing a Raal MTM and adding a pair of Beyma 10's in a tower design.
This wont be an over night thing as I have a LOT to learn. I just know that I prefer to listen to my music without a dedicated sub. I am building dual opposed 15" subwoofers. So I would like to have a fullrange cabinet and the 3 way came to mind. I also already have the 10's anyways. If not I may just build a simple MTM and then build the 10's as a music subwoofer.
Any information would be great. I am new to this woofer but amazed at everything I have seen so far.
Another question I have is there a 7" Satori?
I thought there was but dont see it any where. Maybe I am mistaken and there is only a 6.5. IDK.
Thanks again.
I only ask because maybe it is better as a mid and woofer instead of just mid. I was looking at possibly doing a Raal MTM and adding a pair of Beyma 10's in a tower design.
This wont be an over night thing as I have a LOT to learn. I just know that I prefer to listen to my music without a dedicated sub. I am building dual opposed 15" subwoofers. So I would like to have a fullrange cabinet and the 3 way came to mind. I also already have the 10's anyways. If not I may just build a simple MTM and then build the 10's as a music subwoofer.
Any information would be great. I am new to this woofer but amazed at everything I have seen so far.
Another question I have is there a 7" Satori?
I thought there was but dont see it any where. Maybe I am mistaken and there is only a 6.5. IDK.
Thanks again.
Greetings everyone.
I understand the Satori woofer provides a hole on the magnet to allow bolted mounting to the cabinet.
Has anyone tried this? Bolting the driver to the rear wall of the cabinet. Driver pulled against the front baffle through a rubber/bitumen gasket and the bolt itself exiting the rear wall through slightly oversized hole and fastened to the wall though a rubber/bitumen decoupling.
Would this provide both bracing and help decouple vibrations getting to the cabinet.
thanks
J
I understand the Satori woofer provides a hole on the magnet to allow bolted mounting to the cabinet.
Has anyone tried this? Bolting the driver to the rear wall of the cabinet. Driver pulled against the front baffle through a rubber/bitumen gasket and the bolt itself exiting the rear wall through slightly oversized hole and fastened to the wall though a rubber/bitumen decoupling.
Would this provide both bracing and help decouple vibrations getting to the cabinet.
thanks
J
Haven't tried it on the Satori but did that very thing on another driver some time back and the results of magnet mounting showed marked improvement in having the speakers disappear and the revelation of full soundstage and imaging. Use a brass, copper, or stainless steel bold and you needn't worry over any interference with the drivers magnetic flux.
Thanks Tom. I think the datasheet does mention the bolting option. Take a look when you get a chance.
Btw, find your mod86 amp very interesting. congrats on the good deign. Want to try them out at some point as a mid/high amp in a biamp setup.
Really? Where?
Here's the data sheet: http://www.sbacoustics.com/index.php/download_file/-/view/363/
Thank you.
Tom
Very likely that this coupled with the threaded (appears to be) hole on the rear of the magnet caused me to believe they support such mounting. The hole could just be for coil ventilation?
"Gasket and bolt hole protrusions for reduced coupling to speaker cabinet"
I think the use of the word protrusion in the plural tense is what indicates they are simply speaking of the standard mounting holes. Also they speak of decoupling and not coupling the speaker. Adding a bolt that puts pressure on the rear of the motor will couple the motor to the cabinet, which is opposite of their explanation. That being said, it may very well be a good idea.
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Hello,
I will be using the satori drivers (same ones as in this thread, with the 4 ohm tweeter) to replace the drivers of a vintage Diapason Adamantes, which has about the same volume as Joachim's box. I've been considering various ways of doing an active Xover, including using my HTPC (and Jriver or other software), or a Marchand or Ultracurve device.
My setup is currently 5.0 (no subwoofer yet, possibly I will get a B&W PV1), and I would like to "actively" amplify the stereo Satoris (I have plenty of amps available).
Question is: what do you think of "inline crossovers", such as Harrison Lab FMOD ones, as an easy "before amplifier" Xover solution? They are not too expensive, and really easy to test. Which Xover cut point would you choose if you were to separate the signal to the Satoris? I would duplicate the stereo input with an Onkyo receiver to get 2L +2R channels which would go to 4 separate channels in amp/s, each one with an inline Xover hooked to the input.
These are an example of inline "before the amp" Xovers
FMODS
Any comments/suggestions?
I will be using the satori drivers (same ones as in this thread, with the 4 ohm tweeter) to replace the drivers of a vintage Diapason Adamantes, which has about the same volume as Joachim's box. I've been considering various ways of doing an active Xover, including using my HTPC (and Jriver or other software), or a Marchand or Ultracurve device.
My setup is currently 5.0 (no subwoofer yet, possibly I will get a B&W PV1), and I would like to "actively" amplify the stereo Satoris (I have plenty of amps available).
Question is: what do you think of "inline crossovers", such as Harrison Lab FMOD ones, as an easy "before amplifier" Xover solution? They are not too expensive, and really easy to test. Which Xover cut point would you choose if you were to separate the signal to the Satoris? I would duplicate the stereo input with an Onkyo receiver to get 2L +2R channels which would go to 4 separate channels in amp/s, each one with an inline Xover hooked to the input.
These are an example of inline "before the amp" Xovers
FMODS
Any comments/suggestions?
IMHO.
1. Get a good DSP i you want to go active - like groundsound. If on a budget then an old beringer or a minidsp.
2. You will need measurement equipment - and again something from minidsp could be an option.
3. It's a 6½", so a maximum of 2.5Khz with LR-4 would be my guess, since going higher will result in beaming. And in my experience a near flat frequency response at +/- 45 degrees in the horizontal plane, is important for good sound.
1. Get a good DSP i you want to go active - like groundsound. If on a budget then an old beringer or a minidsp.
2. You will need measurement equipment - and again something from minidsp could be an option.
3. It's a 6½", so a maximum of 2.5Khz with LR-4 would be my guess, since going higher will result in beaming. And in my experience a near flat frequency response at +/- 45 degrees in the horizontal plane, is important for good sound.
I use Satoris for mid and treble in an active 3 way system of my own design. After a lot of experiments I settled with 2300 Hz LR-4 for upper XO. At lower XO frequencies, the treble seemed less transparent and free. The Satoris go pretty low without problems, so the lower XO is set at 240 Hz LR-4.
The XOs are FIR, so the phase is linear at listening position. It is implemented in a PC which delivers the 6 channels needed for a stereo 3-way system to a multichannel DAC via USB. Experiments with XO frequency and steepness is very easy this way. I can recommend JRiver for player software because it interfaces easily with all kind of devices and generated filters. JRivers built-in DSP filters for XO sound pretty good even though it IIR.
I have experimented with several multichannel DACs. My current one is MOTU 1248 which has the very good Sabre 9016 chip for DAC. It is the best one I have heard - by far superior to RME.