Thanks Rayma - I appreciate your advice. However, sadly (inevitably?), I believe I've just discovered my first significant issue: the suspension springs are clearly mismatched. One of them is a rather saggy and feeble looking substitute that obviously doesn't belong.
Happily, replacement Linn springs with new grommets appear to be freely available online, so I guess I should start there.
Thanks again for the arm link - I've just downloaded a copy of the owners manual
Thanks Rayma - I appreciate your advice. However, sadly (inevitably?), I believe I've just discovered my first significant issue: the suspension springs are clearly mismatched. One of them is a rather saggy and feeble looking substitute that obviously doesn't belong.
Happily, replacement Linn springs with new grommets appear to be freely available online, so I guess I should start there.
Thanks again for the arm link - I've just downloaded a copy of the owners manual
This spring might be normal. As I recall, the left side spring must be tightened up quite a lot compared to the other two.
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Aha! Now that's interesting. Thank you - Perhaps I don't need new springs, after all.
Anyway, I've had a quick twist 'n' tension, as you suggested. The armboard is now located centrally and the suspension is level. The bearing cavity seems to be full of black molyslip engine oil additive - it has a very distinctive smell - but it seems to run smoothly and silently.
However, I've no idea how long this oil has been in there so I'll clean it out as you suggest and I'll replace it with some Origin Live bearing oil that I've managed to scrounge from a mate who uses it on his lp12.
Anyway, I've had a quick twist 'n' tension, as you suggested. The armboard is now located centrally and the suspension is level. The bearing cavity seems to be full of black molyslip engine oil additive - it has a very distinctive smell - but it seems to run smoothly and silently.
However, I've no idea how long this oil has been in there so I'll clean it out as you suggest and I'll replace it with some Origin Live bearing oil that I've managed to scrounge from a mate who uses it on his lp12.
Hi stinky
Congrats on the gem you got 🙂
Let us know what cart and riaa preamp you are planning to use
Congrats on the gem you got 🙂
Let us know what cart and riaa preamp you are planning to use
Hi RCruz - I'm very pleased to say that I've managed to spend many happy hours this week trying out different combinations of equipment.
I have an old Avreavox pre-amp that I'm very happy with, but unfortunately it doesn't have a phono stage, so I swapped it out for my old Quad 33. Sadly, that simply doesn't cut it any more (I suspect it needs some serious TLC) so the Quad went back into storage and it was back to the valves of my Avreavox. Next up was a borrowed Musical Fidelity X-LP, which I was quite impressed with until I fired up a borrowed Croft Acoustics phono stage, which simply blew me away with its sound quality.
Sadly, I'll have to save my pennies before I can buy a Croft, so I've settled on a cheap entry level Cambridge Audio phono stage to keep the music flowing until I can get the cash together for the Croft Acoustics model.
As for carts? Happily, I was able to borrow a few from the same friend that loaned me his Croft phono stage. The first one I tried was an AT-95e, but that really didn't work for me. It seemed to have a very dark and congested mid-range. It was probably just a poor match for my arm, but it didn't make for very pleasant listening. However, next up was a Goldring G1012 and that was a huge improvement. Given the substantial price difference between the two cartridges I guess there should be a noticeable difference, but I was surprised at the gulf between the two price ranges and I was completely won over by the Goldring. As a result, a shiny new G1012 now nestles happily in my Mayware arm and I'm very pleased with its performance.
I have an old Avreavox pre-amp that I'm very happy with, but unfortunately it doesn't have a phono stage, so I swapped it out for my old Quad 33. Sadly, that simply doesn't cut it any more (I suspect it needs some serious TLC) so the Quad went back into storage and it was back to the valves of my Avreavox. Next up was a borrowed Musical Fidelity X-LP, which I was quite impressed with until I fired up a borrowed Croft Acoustics phono stage, which simply blew me away with its sound quality.
Sadly, I'll have to save my pennies before I can buy a Croft, so I've settled on a cheap entry level Cambridge Audio phono stage to keep the music flowing until I can get the cash together for the Croft Acoustics model.
As for carts? Happily, I was able to borrow a few from the same friend that loaned me his Croft phono stage. The first one I tried was an AT-95e, but that really didn't work for me. It seemed to have a very dark and congested mid-range. It was probably just a poor match for my arm, but it didn't make for very pleasant listening. However, next up was a Goldring G1012 and that was a huge improvement. Given the substantial price difference between the two cartridges I guess there should be a noticeable difference, but I was surprised at the gulf between the two price ranges and I was completely won over by the Goldring. As a result, a shiny new G1012 now nestles happily in my Mayware arm and I'm very pleased with its performance.
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This is my RD11 model "E" I rebuilt in the 80,s
The 9pound stock platter was filled in the center open area with lead shot and epoxy and rebalanced
The bearing and metal sub platter was cut away and bolted to a 1" thick acrylic plinth and the springs were repositioned to new locations
Last year I powered it up and it has speed issues, hunts up and down.
Probably a recap is needed
The bearing is nothing special.
Regards
David
Wow! Now that is a seriously sweet looking piece of kit! Thanks for posting - that picture is really quite inspirational. I'm genuinely impressed.
As for the acrylic plinth, I noticed many seem to use that material for both plinths and baseboards. Are there really any sonic advantages?
As for the acrylic plinth, I noticed many seem to use that material for both plinths and baseboards. Are there really any sonic advantages?
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Acrylic is dead in the sense that it both absorbs and quickly decays at 1" thickness and is suitable enough in this application.
If you hang a piece from a clothes line for example, and hit it with a hammer you get the picture in comparison to other materials.
Laminations are more complicated overall, but work well when done right.
You don't want anything vibrating except the needle.
There are those that want a flavor addition and get it from ringing material construction. Usually a cost factor is involved to sell many TT,s and OK sound.
I,d rather not contribute a competing element with the diamond.
Regards
David
If you hang a piece from a clothes line for example, and hit it with a hammer you get the picture in comparison to other materials.
Laminations are more complicated overall, but work well when done right.
You don't want anything vibrating except the needle.
There are those that want a flavor addition and get it from ringing material construction. Usually a cost factor is involved to sell many TT,s and OK sound.
I,d rather not contribute a competing element with the diamond.
Regards
David
Ok - speed stability and motor performance... I'd be very grateful for any advice on this.
My RD11s certainly has some wow issues, but the belt is very old and loose, so I suspect a new belt will probably sort this problem out. However, when I was messing around with the belt I noticed an issue that I am less sure about...
When the turntable is plugged into a wall socket, with the wall socket switched on but the mains switch on the turntable switched off, the motor and spindle assembly seems to vibrate at a high frequency with considerable vigour and gusto. When I switch the RD11s on, this vibration seems to stop and the motor runs silently and apparently without vibration.
I guess this isn't normal so I'd be very grateful for any advice.
My RD11s certainly has some wow issues, but the belt is very old and loose, so I suspect a new belt will probably sort this problem out. However, when I was messing around with the belt I noticed an issue that I am less sure about...
When the turntable is plugged into a wall socket, with the wall socket switched on but the mains switch on the turntable switched off, the motor and spindle assembly seems to vibrate at a high frequency with considerable vigour and gusto. When I switch the RD11s on, this vibration seems to stop and the motor runs silently and apparently without vibration.
I guess this isn't normal so I'd be very grateful for any advice.
This also happened in the old AR turntable, and it's from leakage in a capacitor used on the power switch to prevent pops in the speakers.
You can either replace the cap, or use an external switch like an outlet strip or wall switch, or just ignore it. This won't harm the motor.
Excellent! Thank you - that's very reassuring. If the capacitor is easily accessible I'll replace it. In the meantime I'll just switch it off at the wall.
Thanks for your advice, Rayma.
Thanks for your advice, Rayma.
It should be an X rated capacitor if you replace it. An example:
ECQ-U3A473MG Panasonic Electronic Components | P11114-ND | DigiKey
They were made by Castlemilk Engineering . A batch of 100 was ordered and rejected on price. These were sold as LP12.
Thank you - your advice was spot on. A new capacitor solved the problem completely. Much appreciated. 🙂
Ariston RD11 Model E (slightly off topic from the RD-11S)
If you're looking for clues as to the motor drive circuit, see the Technics SL-23 service manual.
I believe that the same motor drive circuit may also be used by some Bang & Olufsen turntables and more than likely by other Matsushita (Technics & Panasonic) products.
Good Luck!
If you're looking for clues as to the motor drive circuit, see the Technics SL-23 service manual.
I believe that the same motor drive circuit may also be used by some Bang & Olufsen turntables and more than likely by other Matsushita (Technics & Panasonic) products.
Good Luck!
You're welcome, I've worked on lots of turntables: LP12, AR ES1, Ariston RD11s, Logic DM101, ERA, Oracle, Rega 2/3, Connoisseur BD1/2, etc.
Not to mention tonearms like Breuer Dynamic, Grace 707/1,2,3, Grace 747, SME 2/3, SAU2, Mayware Formula IV, Keith Monks, etc.
Hamish
I think it's a combination of the added lead ( the whole inside bottom area where the belt runs ) to the platter plus the very small hour glass shaped motor pulley area ( very small Dia.) that allows not much tolerance for error ( slippage)
It worked for many years and it's probably just a stretched belt. I haven't gotten into it as I have many other table combinations, but will sort it out eventually.
Regards
David
I think it's a combination of the added lead ( the whole inside bottom area where the belt runs ) to the platter plus the very small hour glass shaped motor pulley area ( very small Dia.) that allows not much tolerance for error ( slippage)
It worked for many years and it's probably just a stretched belt. I haven't gotten into it as I have many other table combinations, but will sort it out eventually.
Regards
David
This thread has been most interesting... but also long.
But anyway I need some advice for Ariston RD11S I bought recently. Deck does have 11S style sub chassis and armboard cut for SME3009. Bearing seems to be early 11 style with sleeves made from bearing metal with flat end shaft without captive ball.
I have now cleaned most sub chassis parts... but cleaning bearing housing seems to be most troublesome. Oil viscosity seems to be close to syrup... so far I have not been able to get bearing ball out of well... I have tried to dissolve oil with mineral spirit and rust remover but ball has not moved out so far. I tried gentle rap with hammer to housing... this did not help. Any better ideas?
Suggestions for bearing oil would be appreciated. Would something like Castrol TDIII type ATF offer suitable oiling properties and long useful life in platter bearing.
http://msdspds.castrol.com/bpglis/FusionPDS.nsf/Files/7A0993B5ADCEED208025770C00428458/$File/ATF%20TQ%20DIII.pdf
Best Regards
Kimmo
But anyway I need some advice for Ariston RD11S I bought recently. Deck does have 11S style sub chassis and armboard cut for SME3009. Bearing seems to be early 11 style with sleeves made from bearing metal with flat end shaft without captive ball.
I have now cleaned most sub chassis parts... but cleaning bearing housing seems to be most troublesome. Oil viscosity seems to be close to syrup... so far I have not been able to get bearing ball out of well... I have tried to dissolve oil with mineral spirit and rust remover but ball has not moved out so far. I tried gentle rap with hammer to housing... this did not help. Any better ideas?
Suggestions for bearing oil would be appreciated. Would something like Castrol TDIII type ATF offer suitable oiling properties and long useful life in platter bearing.
http://msdspds.castrol.com/bpglis/FusionPDS.nsf/Files/7A0993B5ADCEED208025770C00428458/$File/ATF%20TQ%20DIII.pdf
Best Regards
Kimmo
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