jarthel said:
What type of stereo volume control?
If you mean a motorised pot, you can use the Remote1 board and an RK27 or RK16 pot. There are also relay and PGA2310 based attenuators available.
Best regards,
Mikkel C. Simonsen
mcs said:
2 questions:
1. with the pga2310-based volume control, how do I change the volume?
2. with relvol1 with control, I assume the control is built-in. but if I buy relvol3, I would need a control circuit. is this right?
thanks for the reply.
jarthel said:
For just a volume control (no input selector etc.), you can use the VolControl1, 2 or 3 (different displays).
Yes. And in the RelVol3 case, you could use the VolControl boards also.
Best regards,
Mikkel C. Simonsen
the buffer on the pga2130-based volume control uses opa2134. can this be changed to dual-opa627bp (using an adapter)?
when you say "no buffer" (on the pricelist for the chipvol1), do you mean:
the parts for the buffer have been removed OR
the kit does not include the opa2134?
thank you.
when you say "no buffer" (on the pricelist for the chipvol1), do you mean:
the parts for the buffer have been removed OR
the kit does not include the opa2134?
thank you.
jarthel said:
Yes, you can use any op. amps. as long as they are unity gain stable.
Both I guess. None of the parts for the burffer stage (chip, resistors, caps) are included, and you connect the input signal to the PGA chip directly.
Best regards,
Mikkel C. Simonsen
mcs said:
what's the dimension for relvol1 with built-in control? also is the pot in the signal path?
jarthel said:
The size is 75*93mm. The "pot" isn't in the signal path, as there isn't one. It's a digital encoder.
Best regards,
Mikkel C. Simonsen
mcs said:
that brought another question: Relvol1 with built-in control can replace a stepped attenuator of the same impedance. is this assumption correct?
I have bought some time ago a Chipvol1, input selector and controlboard with a nice blue display and remote kit.
I have now had it playing for a long time and I am very satisfied with the sound and quality of above. It suits my gear perfectly.
I can only reccomend Dantimax and Mikkel the support I have gotten if outstanding and very proffessional.
If you are looking for a passive or active DIY preamp with a working remote check out his site at Dantimax
I have now had it playing for a long time and I am very satisfied with the sound and quality of above. It suits my gear perfectly.
I can only reccomend Dantimax and Mikkel the support I have gotten if outstanding and very proffessional.
If you are looking for a passive or active DIY preamp with a working remote check out his site at Dantimax
Remote control to drive a motor
Hi ,
I need to make a simple remote control that can move a small motor in both the directions.
the motor wheel shud turn slowly.
There shud be an left button and a right button to move the wheel in either direction.
Can u help me out?
Thanks,
Cool
Hi ,
I need to make a simple remote control that can move a small motor in both the directions.
the motor wheel shud turn slowly.
There shud be an left button and a right button to move the wheel in either direction.
Can u help me out?
Thanks,
Cool
You could try this kit from Dantimax - it is designed to control a motorized pot
http://electronics.dantimax.dk/Kits/Control_boards/10861343142.html
http://electronics.dantimax.dk/Kits/Control_boards/10861343142.html
Hi
I'am planning to use a preamp module which convert single ended to balance.
Configuration could use the input2 selector board, having both SE and Balanced at
input of the preamp. and only balanced at the output :
So few questions about the input2 board :
the preamp board has only Balanced input, so when connecting SE to it, I will have
to connect the (-) pin to the GND on the preamp (both wired to GND/RCA input)
Can it be manage with the input2 with both XLR input without any "rewiring"
the preamp has only Balanced out, in that case the (-) or the (+) should never be
connected to the GND. the contact should only be open. Does input2 manage that case ?
( i ask this question because on input2 schematic, for JP7 it seems that 2 and 3 pin
can be connected to GND, for 2 it's Ok but about the pin 3)
Last question, can the Balanced input can be configured in SE Mode
Hope I'm clear enough 🙂
Thanks
I'am planning to use a preamp module which convert single ended to balance.
Configuration could use the input2 selector board, having both SE and Balanced at
input of the preamp. and only balanced at the output :
So few questions about the input2 board :
the preamp board has only Balanced input, so when connecting SE to it, I will have
to connect the (-) pin to the GND on the preamp (both wired to GND/RCA input)
Can it be manage with the input2 with both XLR input without any "rewiring"
the preamp has only Balanced out, in that case the (-) or the (+) should never be
connected to the GND. the contact should only be open. Does input2 manage that case ?
( i ask this question because on input2 schematic, for JP7 it seems that 2 and 3 pin
can be connected to GND, for 2 it's Ok but about the pin 3)
Last question, can the Balanced input can be configured in SE Mode
Hope I'm clear enough 🙂
Thanks
Hi RTD,
I will let MCS answer most of the questions. One question requests a change to the board, so I will answer that one as I just did something similar.
I used this system to build an Aleph P1.7 pre-amp, and can tell you that if you that this is a very versatile system. All you want it does. What is very nice, is that when you fool around with both SE and balanced inputs, you usually end up with 6DB more output on the balanced inputs. With this system you can then set the offset for a SE input of 6DB, so when you change channels you do not end up with very loud music.
When you want to make changes, like reconfiguring the balanced input for a SE, you will find that you can do that with a few changes to the board. The board incorporates a separate relay that connects the - from the balanced input to ground when using a SE input. I have been fooling around with the boards, using different buttons to switch the same input (i wanted the selection CD and SAT to select the same input (DAC) and can tell you that it is very easy to add (or in my case remove) a connection to switch the relay that grounds the minus ).
I can tell you that the boards are very versatile, while still allowing a lot of changes. I made a lot, short-circuited everything many many times, but still no problems!!
Even when you want to add functionality, it is very easy. I made a new board to decrease power supply wiring, and add functionality that enables to separate start my monoblocks with 5V signals, and signal my DAC and Phono when to start. Some signals are delay on, some are delay off.
Greetings, Harry
I will let MCS answer most of the questions. One question requests a change to the board, so I will answer that one as I just did something similar.
I used this system to build an Aleph P1.7 pre-amp, and can tell you that if you that this is a very versatile system. All you want it does. What is very nice, is that when you fool around with both SE and balanced inputs, you usually end up with 6DB more output on the balanced inputs. With this system you can then set the offset for a SE input of 6DB, so when you change channels you do not end up with very loud music.
When you want to make changes, like reconfiguring the balanced input for a SE, you will find that you can do that with a few changes to the board. The board incorporates a separate relay that connects the - from the balanced input to ground when using a SE input. I have been fooling around with the boards, using different buttons to switch the same input (i wanted the selection CD and SAT to select the same input (DAC) and can tell you that it is very easy to add (or in my case remove) a connection to switch the relay that grounds the minus ).
I can tell you that the boards are very versatile, while still allowing a lot of changes. I made a lot, short-circuited everything many many times, but still no problems!!
Even when you want to add functionality, it is very easy. I made a new board to decrease power supply wiring, and add functionality that enables to separate start my monoblocks with 5V signals, and signal my DAC and Phono when to start. Some signals are delay on, some are delay off.
Greetings, Harry
Attachments
Hi,
To complete my question :
Does VolControl3 work with RelVol3 (balanced) ?
Is LCD optionnal for VolControl3 or must it be fit to make the control work ? ( so that i could fit it later ).
Those should be my last question 😉
thanks
To complete my question :
Does VolControl3 work with RelVol3 (balanced) ?
Is LCD optionnal for VolControl3 or must it be fit to make the control work ? ( so that i could fit it later ).
Those should be my last question 😉
thanks
rtd said:
Yes, this is the standard configuration.
No, only the output connectors are connected to ground (shorting the input of the poweramp) for mute. The outputs of the preamp are never connected to ground.
Yes. There is a simple way and a hard way 🙂
The simple way would be to short the inverting input to ground (like when you're using an unbalanced input). This will only work if the signal source has short-circuit proof outputs of course. This can be done without changing the layout of the board. The complicated solution would be to add an extra relay for the switching. That could be done with a bit of extra wiring on top of the board.
Sorry about replying so late! I normally get an e-mail when somebody posts here, but I didn't this time.
Best regards,
Mikkel C. Simonsen
rtd said:
Yes and perhaps. An LCD is normally needed, but you should be able to just short two pins of the LCD connector, to make the board "think" there is a display connected - I have just never tried 😉
Best regards,
Mikkel C. Simonsen