Thank you. WOW, too much technical for me 🙂
I'm considering some second hand PA amps like Lab Grupen or else when the PA drivers are chosen.
I'm considering some second hand PA amps like Lab Grupen or else when the PA drivers are chosen.
If you ask me, my active setup was driven by 3-way Hypex Fusionamps, that was the setup with the capacitor test too. The tweeter was a CD+horn with sloping down frequency response towards highs, so in theory it was logical to use a capacitor to get a more flat fr response to begin with, plus in theory it provides a better protection for the high fr driver, but we can see from previous replys that the extra protection is not necessarily true in all cases.
Anyway, if the capacitors had a transparent sound, they would have stayed in the signal path, but I didn’t hear it that way. The same happened with an L-pad to passively reduce the tweeter level.
Anyway, if the capacitors had a transparent sound, they would have stayed in the signal path, but I didn’t hear it that way. The same happened with an L-pad to passively reduce the tweeter level.
🙂 I would had considered the Fusion amps that seem to be better that the usual too much damped others standalone Hypex amps... Not so expensive but still too much for me.
Unaware of the lengths that you went to in this case, the L-Pad will make small response differences. The capacitor as well.
Yes, I know what an L-pad or a capacitor do to the responses, even the subtle ones. As I sayd, the final frequency/phase/timing responses was the same with or without the passive elements, it was not too hard to achieve thanks to the DSP.
Amp are very efficient. Speakers are not. Best to add more speakers.
I don't do gig. I don't understand why you need to change crossover at a gig.
Do you walk around the venue to measure fr and then tune crossover for time alignment?
Seems you and I don't have the same thoughts.
It's rare to adjust crossover frequencies at the gig. Maybe subs to mains, depending on positioning etc. If the subs are centre clustered away from the mains, it can be best to drop the crossover point to shorten the effective path difference.
Time alignment, however, can vary venue to venue depending on the physical speaker placement etc.
Even then, the mid-to-high alignment is generally fixed on account of those drivers typically sharing a cabinet.
Chris
Time alignment, however, can vary venue to venue depending on the physical speaker placement etc.
Even then, the mid-to-high alignment is generally fixed on account of those drivers typically sharing a cabinet.
Chris
We are. The flexibility of active crossovers (particularly DSP) works for home HiFi, though.
Chris
Chris
A quick update for anyone who may be having the same issues with turn off thump. I can confirm that the DIYA speaker protection board works perfectly when powered from it's own separate small (I used 7VA) AC transformer.
I previously tried them powered from the amp PSU and a small Meanwell DC supply but it takes too long for the caps to discharge.
I previously tried them powered from the amp PSU and a small Meanwell DC supply but it takes too long for the caps to discharge.
A good result 🙂
Regarding damping factor, there is a good read linked in this post - Sealed or vented
Regarding damping factor, there is a good read linked in this post - Sealed or vented
Hi, mpa
I too use valuable tweeters, the TAD ET-703's, which also has a beryllium diaphragm and nearly unobtanium today. Unless I missed it, did anyone suggest a 1/2 amp fast blow fuse on the tweeter ?? I don't know if that is the ideal solution but that should work---for home use. Seems like many of the solutions here will downgrade the overall sound.
I once disconnected a field coil power supply ( while powered ) wires from a driver above the tweeter and the wires fell right across the tweeter terminals, the diaphragm literally blew to pieces !!
It took me a year and $800 to find another diaphragm !!! Needless to say, I am much more careful to make sure the power supplies are turned off when removing the wires. Good luck with finding your best protection solution.
Meet Joe, and his amazing DIY horn speakers - YouTube
Joe
I too use valuable tweeters, the TAD ET-703's, which also has a beryllium diaphragm and nearly unobtanium today. Unless I missed it, did anyone suggest a 1/2 amp fast blow fuse on the tweeter ?? I don't know if that is the ideal solution but that should work---for home use. Seems like many of the solutions here will downgrade the overall sound.
I once disconnected a field coil power supply ( while powered ) wires from a driver above the tweeter and the wires fell right across the tweeter terminals, the diaphragm literally blew to pieces !!
It took me a year and $800 to find another diaphragm !!! Needless to say, I am much more careful to make sure the power supplies are turned off when removing the wires. Good luck with finding your best protection solution.
Meet Joe, and his amazing DIY horn speakers - YouTube
Joe