Presenting the Trynergy - a full range tractrix synergy.

Just looking nice only ! Because I have most of my non electronical Tools elswhere ! So didn't want to buy another heat gun to glue... so I glue little by little : on the picture, the mouth is not glued yet !

I believe this foam could be nice, but it is hard to cut clean as it' thick, and I'm not sure it's dense enough for a horn ! Better a layered foam a you have or the Jeshi one !

But here it's few money, I can make it again as I have the main driver !

The glueing was difficult also because the cutting were not precise enough ! Despite the measurements: with no hot glue, the results are not acurate !

I'm defintly worried when I see the speed of your speaker projects, man ! I'm a little like you, so I beginned yoga instead reading books when the family sleep !
 
Kees, if you look at the position of the bass injection port from the front band pass chamber of the woofer, it is located about 11 inches from the throat. That is about the correct location. The steps are about 5 cm from the throat because it is straight and I take smaller steps near the mouth as it expands rapidly.

Also, you would not want your bass reflect re-injection to come in upstream of the the main band pass port - you would end up with a strange 6th order bandpass woofer that will have a very steep cutoff.

Akabak is not easy, but we find it and try, maybe first shut of the reflex ports and find best point and shut on again later and fine tune them.

Or afcourse put them in the back. I have change to cm as you see it is more easy, (if I did right)..

Thanks for advice.

regards
 
Just looking nice only ! Because I have most of my non electronical Tools elswhere ! So didn't want to buy another heat gun to glue... so I glue little by little : on the picture, the mouth is not glued yet !

I believe this foam could be nice, but it is hard to cut clean as it' thick, and I'm not sure it's dense enough for a horn ! Better a layered foam a you have or the Jeshi one !

But here it's few money, I can make it again as I have the main driver !

The glueing was difficult also because the cutting were not precise enough ! Despite the measurements: with no hot glue, the results are not acurate !

I'm defintly worried when I see the speed of your speaker projects, man ! I'm a little like you, so I beginned yoga instead reading books when the family sleep !

With a little detective work, I found out what foam core board is called and sold as in France!

"carton ou de mousse"

Carton-mousse et cartons | DeSerres

$3.50/sheet of white 20x30 is same price as Elmer's high quality FC board in US.

Carton mousse | DeSerres

You can definitely get it in France! Yay!

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


Edit, sorry the above site is French Canadian (hence the $!).

Here is French store:

http://www.rougier-ple.fr/carton-mo...1-gratuit.r.html?catalogId=74#categoryId=3612

11.90 Euro for 50cm x 65cm sheet. Pricey... 🙂

P_500400_P_1_PRODUIT.jpg
 
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Length is in meters as default in Akabak. Volume is cubic meters so divide liters by 1000.

This I do now, but sometimes I get stuk with where is throat and mouth, L1 till the last L** was this niet in reverse with akabak.

The port surface how big do you use? I see you have a half moon like hole.

Here I sent the script, if you want to look for me I and explane some I am thankfull.

regards
 

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Hey X : thanks a lot, you're definitly a smart googler ! I pay my foam yoga carpet 20 euros (it's a good quality one : and can make imo a good layer for spring-mass effect you use a lot in your designs !

Yes the first one is for our canadian friends !

the second one is a tricky find, I know they make balsa wood also !

0.1 inch is enough (3 mm) ? (you putt two layers with yours?)

Well done X, thank you so much... I have pain to progress because of the 1.5 cm thickness foam I have and my Tools elsewhere !
 
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My standard foam core is 0.1875 in thick (3/16) or under 5mm. I use double or triple layer on driver mounting baffles but generally single layer elsewhere with lots of bracing. The curved walls on tractrix are double layer

The trick was to realize that foam is called mousse in French. I tried papier mousse at first and that led to carton mousse.

Good cardboard can work too. Thick triple ply cardboard moving boxes are used a lot to reinforce my foam core or to provide surface for screws to attach to.
 
Moose cartoons? 😉😀 On occasion I find myself pronouncing words like Pepe Le Pew in order to make myself understood to a French coworker. The funny thing is that it works about half the time.

More on topic, to me a slightly damped open back cabinet type OB is very similar to a TL loading. I think of TL's as heavily folded OB.

I will have to try this synergy thing sometime. Always seemed like an excellent idea.
 
I see that this sounds also well.

A tweeter in the horn will also make it single point, only delay is need right.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AqhS3BA0BYQ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jPhONWr1Njo

the subs here for a tapped will make it very nice, a trynergy with a fase plug go to 4 Khz without make it hars sounding, when you want higher possible hars sound will occur. over some days I am ready with the plug and see whap happens.

regards
 
I finished my 220hz tractrix horns with Visaton FRS8M, 0.3 liter back chamber. I had no previous mid horn experience. No measurements at this moment but will do after they break in these days.

I cross them Low Pass LR4 at only 2250Hz because the highs are not as good as my Philips tweeters. The tweeters are hanged in the mouth and delayed.

The sound is very fast and smooth, way less distortion than my previous open baffle 8in driver (eminence alpha 8).
I drive them with a 20W Yamaha amp, class AB. The volume these mid horns can output is incredible. Also at low volume, they sound very clear, where the Alphas sounded distorted. I think the moving mass makes that difference, 8" versus 3" is a lot.

The only problem i see now is that i must make a midbass horn to cover 100-500hz 🙂
 
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I finished my 220hz tractrix horns with Visaton FRS8M, 0.3 liter back chamber. I had no previous mid horn experience. No measurements at this moment but will do after they break in these days.

I cross them Low Pass LR4 at only 2250Hz because the highs are not as good as my Philips tweeters. The tweeters are hanged in the mouth and delayed.

The sound is very fast and smooth, way less distortion than my previous open baffle 8in driver (eminence alpha 8).
I drive them with a 20W Yamaha amp, class AB. The volume these mid horns can output is incredible. Also at low volume, they sound very clear, where the Alphas sounded distorted. I think the moving mass makes that difference, 8" versus 3" is a lot.

The only problem i see now is that i must make a midbass horn to cover 100-500hz 🙂

This is what I has also in mind,to make a tweeter to hang it in the mouth if the horn if the tangerine has no succes, (making a special saw machine using a jigg saw for making them.).

The midbass can be done with speakers on the sides like we do here, but no horn loading.
 
I finished my 220hz tractrix horns with Visaton FRS8M, 0.3 liter back chamber. I had no previous mid horn experience. No measurements at this moment but will do after they break in these days.

I cross them Low Pass LR4 at only 2250Hz because the highs are not as good as my Philips tweeters. The tweeters are hanged in the mouth and delayed.

The sound is very fast and smooth, way less distortion than my previous open baffle 8in driver (eminence alpha 8).
I drive them with a 20W Yamaha amp, class AB. The volume these mid horns can output is incredible. Also at low volume, they sound very clear, where the Alphas sounded distorted. I think the moving mass makes that difference, 8" versus 3" is a lot.

The only problem i see now is that i must make a midbass horn to cover 100-500hz 🙂

Very nice ! Photos? Did you follow plans here or your own? Totally agree with clarity of sound and low distortion.
 
I calculated the horn size with Hornresp. It is 50x36cm mouth size, 55cm deep.
I did it with minimum tools, a hand pendular saw and drill machine.

One thing i don't like about them is that the curbed wall is vibrating. It is made of 2 thin layers of wood cardboard, 4mm thick (or thin..) each, with wood glue between them. I looked for some rubber layer but i haven't found in my town.
The straight wall is 18mm MDF and it is not vibrating at all.

The back chamber is made of some 500ml plastic cup of cosmetic hair balsam 🙂 i had the lid cut to fit the driver shape, screwed in 4 points and then applied some heat resistant gasket goo from my motorcycle rtw trip kit 🙂
Sorry for the photo quality but it is what the iphone 3gs manages after all the years of usage..
 

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I calculated the horn size with Hornresp. It is 50x36cm mouth size, 55cm deep.
I did it with minimum tools, a hand pendular saw and drill machine.

One thing i don't like about them is that the curbed wall is vibrating. It is made of 2 thin layers of wood cardboard, 4mm thick (or thin..) each, with wood glue between them. I looked for some rubber layer but i haven't found in my town.
The straight wall is 18mm MDF and it is not vibrating at all.

The back chamber is made of some 500ml plastic cup of cosmetic hair balsam 🙂 i had the lid cut to fit the driver shape, screwed in 4 points and then applied some heat resistant gasket goo from my motorcycle rtw trip kit 🙂
Sorry for the photo quality but it is what the iphone 3gs manages after all the years of usage..

Nice work, looks like mine, replace the phillips tweeter for a small horn or calcualte one for the phillips wil do much more efficienty and lower distortion for the tweeter.

I am busy with this way, only I do centrate the tweeter in the middle and build a small tractix first for it in round chape.

regards