No factory make that, to weak construction or to heavy, you now already that a horn need a very stiff but light cone, a little against nature rules, except when use uman made materials who is not yet done for us trynergy guys.
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Well there's for example, the Tectonic Elements 3in square BMR I recently tested in Round 5 of the Subjective Blind testing thread. It has probably a paper honeycomb diaphragm. I did not particularly like the sound from it. It was the only driver to ever get zero votes.
There are also aluminium cones, but sounds st metalic, paper sounds the best, cones who have some damping of there own.
That is why very old speaker souns so natural, because she are natural, and why a wooden home is so enjoyfull to live in.
And now I go put things secure because of the wind here.
Recently I have been surprised by how good an aluminum cone can sound. Examples:
SB65WBAC25-4
FR88EX
FR58EX
P830986
My favorite is the FR88EX so far. They control the breakup resonance with a thick rubber surround and damping gel on the surround cone interface on the backside.
SB65WBAC25-4
FR88EX
FR58EX
P830986
My favorite is the FR88EX so far. They control the breakup resonance with a thick rubber surround and damping gel on the surround cone interface on the backside.
The SB65 also sounds great and has highs like a 1in dome tweeter. A bit low on sensitivity though but maybe horn loading would be perfect?
Should wind direction point to neighbor transmitter then don't secure, rather feed wind some material 😀
Afcourse it is better these days, but normally in old days metal domes did sound harsh, I have no aluminiums here to check.
I am started again with the preserving of highs, with faseplugs, mike is oke, I can measure now.
Idea is as little of space between cone and horn throat, but never less dan xmax afcourse, so I go use plaster and food folie between to make a print of the conus.
regards
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Make the sealed rear box about 1 to 2 liters for the 3FE22 and for the woofers depending on what you get make the rear about same as Vas if you can afford that much volume. One way is to enclose the entire rear horn in a larger box to accommodate the 4 driver volumes. Those cheap $5 6.5in drivers I have need a large Vas to reach 52Hz but since we are aiming for 100Hz, can be much smaller. You can simulate with any sealed box simulator if you want. Some people want a particular box Q value (low Q keep volume small and high Q tends larger volume) and adjust volume to optimize that. For me if was all practical reasons to keep small and I would simulate to see if it reaches low enough and high enough. I made mine 8 liters for two woofers which is very undersized but it reaches 100Hz fine. But if you are using powerful motor lower Qts drivers with small Vas, a smaller volume may be fine. Getting volume right is more critical if you want to vent it for BR action. Make sure you line it with absorbent materials and use stuffing.
Nice work in phase plugs Kees. You said you made a mold of the cone shape. Did you use this as the profile for the lathe work to turn the phase plug shape?
I have not yet a mold, no not for lathe but to see how cone shape is, so I get precise print of it, us very thin plastic between plaster and cone so it get not wet.
This moment I do make a saw from a sigsaw for making precise cuts like a model saw.
regards
kees
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Hi all
I have done a measurement with a faseplug who has only one split, but that give in hf big peaks, however, from 400 to 2500 Hz it has a very nice plot.
Seen the polts are identical, the mike do work not as it has to.
Next step a new faseplug a la radial, maybe that will go do better.
We talk here about a very wide bandwith who has difficulties but exciting ones.
regards
I have done a measurement with a faseplug who has only one split, but that give in hf big peaks, however, from 400 to 2500 Hz it has a very nice plot.
Seen the polts are identical, the mike do work not as it has to.
Next step a new faseplug a la radial, maybe that will go do better.
We talk here about a very wide bandwith who has difficulties but exciting ones.
regards
Attachments
Just going through the drivers and I am no pro but I would say the quality control on these faitalpros is quite poor, Glue everywhere and clearly inconsistent between the two. I will see if I can capture some pics in the next couple days with my girlfriend's camera.
"Made in Italy" I think it was someone's first day on the job.
XRK you say these drivers don't move much in the horn. If there is a clear difference in the amount of glue / sealant, such as the lead from the terminal to the voicecoil, does it seem that these drivers may pair poorly?
There are small areas on one driver where the rubber surround isn't even perfectly glued to the cone, I can get a bit of my fingernail underneath it.
"Made in Italy" I think it was someone's first day on the job.
XRK you say these drivers don't move much in the horn. If there is a clear difference in the amount of glue / sealant, such as the lead from the terminal to the voicecoil, does it seem that these drivers may pair poorly?
There are small areas on one driver where the rubber surround isn't even perfectly glued to the cone, I can get a bit of my fingernail underneath it.
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Yes I have to watch it, sometimes I forget it.
I did listen to the horn, it sounds now very natural, special the voices, so the better the plot the better the sound, reflections are not welcome here.
The next step is faseplugs testing however cone looks to go do strange things with higher compression, further the horn mouth is a little to big. except when using a bigger wideband speaker.
regards
Sorry to hear that. My experience has been good and quality excellent. So it's surprising to hear this. I think you may want to exchange for units that don't have a detached surround.
I called PE and it seems that they are going to sort it out for me. I'm an big fan of Top Gear and it's funny because they are always knocking the craftsmanship of Italy, They say if something is designed in Italy great, so long as it's not built there.
On another note, XRK I am going to the fablab today. Is there any last thing I should know? or just make sure the throat on both the sidewall and top/bottom is 2 inches and the rest to that scale? I'm using the laser cutter and I think I'm using 2 CLD layers of 1/4" or 1/8" HDF.
Edit, Oh yeah the little holes for the 6.5" drivers. I have the luxury of being bang on specific with them, is there an ideal placement/shape?
On another note, XRK I am going to the fablab today. Is there any last thing I should know? or just make sure the throat on both the sidewall and top/bottom is 2 inches and the rest to that scale? I'm using the laser cutter and I think I'm using 2 CLD layers of 1/4" or 1/8" HDF.
Edit, Oh yeah the little holes for the 6.5" drivers. I have the luxury of being bang on specific with them, is there an ideal placement/shape?
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Despite the made in Italy label, I know these drivers almost certainly originated from China. But then most drivers nowadays come from China.
There is a post somewhere back that discusses placement and shape of bass holes. Even a pattern. It's not critical though - about 3/4 of the way out from the throat and I think I picked area equal to 1/3 Sd of cone. I made it crescent shaped but a circle or oblong racetrack shape can work.
There is a post somewhere back that discusses placement and shape of bass holes. Even a pattern. It's not critical though - about 3/4 of the way out from the throat and I think I picked area equal to 1/3 Sd of cone. I made it crescent shaped but a circle or oblong racetrack shape can work.